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My stock hold downs with grade 5 or 8 hardware store bolts have been happy going to 7000 , solid lifter cam, .550"lift

Edelbrock vintage small block mopar intake. $100.

1970 340 built engine, bored +.030, forged 10.5 pistons, forged steel crank, 2.02" pistons. Only $4700.

Will check

I will check in a couple of days

1970 340 +.030 forged 10.5:1 pistons, 2.02" intake valves, low miles, only $3600.

In 1982 Brad Lackey won the 500 world championship on a Suzuki, after racing cz, kawa, husqvarna , honda

Happy Birthday! deep sherwood sunfire metallic green A bodies rule! ( the color of my duster)

measure the pin diameter on your double roller chain. .200" , .225" , .250" some sprockets are available seperately , maybe cloyes and melling. if you match up the sizes, it works . I used an edelbrock true roller .250" chain on cloyes gears , it was -$20. than a replacement cloyes chain - good...

pretty cool! I would like to see it with honed exhaust manifolds, maybe a 440 magnum avs, a belt driven water pump, air filter ....

austrailan made ? 1-cloyes 2 edelbrock 3 elgin. the best true double rollers are .250" pin diameter. midrange units are .225" and low budget rollers are .200"

I would like to see another picture of the intake pushrod passageway. looks like mopar did a simple thing here like they did with the ta heads - machine the heads for the intake pushrods wider. or not machine them and let the customer do it

new Mevotech OGGK7425 . fits other years. only $30.00 plus ship $

my old melling solid lifters are lightweight and have no springs or clips or anything. some GM and ford engines can adjust rockers when running cuz the adjuster is in the center of the rocker. adjusting shaft rockers is tricky and difficult while engine is runnin

were the installed and coil bind heights of the inner springs measured to be good ? .0203" sounds funky, u measured all 16 it as accurate to .0203" ? I like .020" - .040"

I am looking for a good dakota for my spare 345

11.7 at 115 mph with 2.5" edelbrock mufflers

step 1 - need more info about the entire combo. I like my old comp solid 306/.555" cam sounds bad with 11.5 :1 and 1.75" headers and edelbrock 2.5" muffs

I have a 1970 340 warranty complete good running engine. no stamps . steel crank , 340 rods, +.030" bores, honed with plate, decks surfaced/squared. forged trw 10.5 pistons, freshened in 1989. only $3400.

faceplating is the way to go . the old deal does not last. in 1975 suzuki invented faceplating - I could ride a wheely shifting from first to fourth gear on my rm125

increasing and varying the size of the filter and material and height of can and etc. is very cool for horsepower. search some dyno tests for interesting info. an air filter and can increase power +10 over

so the original ! right rear (always the first to go) wheel cylinder is leaking . picked up this old 8.75" rear years ago for $75 so do not know if front was drum or disc. any way to know from checking visually externally to know if the bore is 7/8" or 15/16" ? and what is better and I do not...

run in a new cam varying the rpm above 2000. and the pump gasket is on the pressure side, not suction chooch

Maybe Ed TM 5

I have seen starting in gear breaking a tooth off an older ring gear

nothing wrong with that - but idling at a light with only fan airflow it is 220+ ! which is also not really a big problem

1968-1973 340pistons are 720 grams. the L2316f is the forged replacement that we used in the 1970s and now - no rebalance needed. I bought a good slightly used set 10 years ago for $100.

fan sits flush with shroud? should be about halfway in and halfway out. if your driving at a low rpm how is the temp? and more ignition advance at lower revs keeping total mechanical to about 36*

maybe match the intake to the heads - not to the gasket. more pics please. I like to leave the head ports slightly larger than intake because I dont know exactly how the ports will line up to intake when bolted down. does anyone port while intake is bolted to head? average cfm = super victor...