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Any 8 3/4" rear that comes from an A body is pretty much a straight bolt in deal. You might have to swap parking brake cables. You'll also need the larger U bolts & the correct shock mounting plates if you're replacing a 7 1/4" rear axle. If you're replacing an 8 1/4" rear I think the shock...

4 speeds are weak? Might have heard that about the OD trans in some instances. The Mopar 4 speed was pretty much accepted as the strongest factory 4 speed trans of the muscle car era.

And I can remember having to use a hammer on the arms of the puller to tighten it, along with using a torch to heat the hub, and banging on the hub with a hammer before the thing finally broke loose! Helluva lot of work to go through to replace a set of brake shoes!

If the '62 rear is an 8.75 it's going to have those bolt-on hub/drum setups that require a puller to remove. PITA! Still might have a good pig in it though.

A 38" tire! That thing must've had a helluva stance! JK :-D

If I was buying new I would go with the Truetrac.

As best I can remember you need to shorten your drive shaft 2 1/4" when going from a 7 1/4" rear to an 8 3/4" rear.

Not to be mean, but just a suggestion....Try using the search function near the top of the screen.

I'm not saying everything they said was right. I didn't even read the whole thing. But the part you referenced was an explanation of the Chrysler platform system. It only said that the models mentioned were A bodies, which they are. It then went on to explain what was a B body, a C body, and...

That Dana looks like it came out of a truck. You'd probably have to have 6 or 8 bolt wheels to use with the brakes that are on it. You can probably find a set of 10" or 11" brakes to fit an 8 3/4" rear either here on FABO or in a salvage yard somewhere. I think you can use brakes off of a C...

Maybe I shouldn't have put the second x in there. I was just trying to show that it was sort of like an H by an H. Lousy visual on my part. It was an International cabover farm truck, just one stick, with 5 speeds on the column. Still a PITA to drive, especially because the linkage was...

Try one of these column shifts some time! R 3 5 X X 1 2 4 PITA! :iconbigg:

About 3 or 4 years ago I paid around $450 to have a 998 rebuilt. Included replacing the lockup torque converter & installing a mild shift improvement kit. I did the R&R of the trans. They also flushed out my radiator trans cooler & my auxiliary cooler. It was in a 4wd application.

If the gears don't have any numbers on them you can count the teeth on the gears & divide to get the ratio. Divide the ring gear teeth by the pinion teeth. If you're no good at math bring a calculator. As far as "posi" or whatever you want to call it, if it has a set of spider gears in there...

I suggested that. I don't think he has a vehicle that they would say was quite big enough to tow the combined weight of the car & the dolly. They're a bit picky about that. Plus he doesn't have a lot in the way of funds. No credit card or anything like that. He's 25 & on a VERY limited...

Hoping somebody that works on automatic transmissions can help me out a bit. My Nephew just bought a 97 Neon with an automatic transmission a couple of weeks ago. Less than a week after he bought it the timing belt broke. He needs to haul it about 90 miles back home to work on it & get it...

I think you can still run the Z bar with fenderwell headers. Unless you have removed the entire inner fenderwell. Even then, doesn't the ballstud bracket weld to the frame rail?

Yeah, that's more like it.

Don't know if it can be done with what you have because I don't know how things bolted together. You need to have the little arm that your kickdown rod is attached to pointing up instead of down. Either that or another bracket there, maybe the one I posted above, I don't know for sure. The...

Is this the bracket he needs? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Edelbrock-Black-Thunder-Series-AVS-throttle-lever-adapter-for-Chrysler-1966-up-Not-legal-on-pollution-controlled-vehicles/_/N-25y2?itemIdentifier=841400&_requestid=691855

It's gotta' be pulling your kickdown rod the wrong way then.

I have to admit that I haven't messed with that kind of setup in over 30 years but that looks backwards to me. Maybe it's just the angle or things pivot differently than I'm picturing it in my head. Does the whole throttle arm pivot up & back? The attachment for the kickdown just looks wrong...

I was just thinking about this same thing myself. Seems like a pipe plug should work well. They have tapered, self-sealing threads. Maybe use a little teflon tape on it.

Got any tea leaves?

Don't know how many things are "set in stone" so to speak. You haven't said what brakes you plan to use. If you cut your housing to a stock A body width, use the B body brakes, and use the wheels you mentioned with a 4.25" backspace I don't think your tires will fit in the wheel wells. Even...

If you've got the skills then more power to ya'. The torsion bar mount portion of the crossmember needs to be done right because it involves your front suspension. Other than that it's mainly cosmetic. If the bell housing bolts up then you just have a little engineering to get the clutch...

Can't say from experience but, from what seems to be involved in putting in just about any trans that these cars didn't come from the factory with, I'd imagine a LOT OF HASSLE. You'll probably have to cut & reshape the floorpan & the cross member where the rear of the torsion bars attach...

Took an automatic transmission out that way one time. It was a push button trans. We used a hacksaw on the cables. :D (Try not to be mad at me. It was 1974 & we were young & stupid.)

I think he can use '65 & down. The cable shift trans with Ball & Trunion was used through 65 IIRC.

I don't know of any automatic overdrive transmission that will bolt into a 1968 A body Mopar without modifying the tunnel & torsion bar crossmember. Maybe I'm wrong? :dontknow: I think the Gear Vendors unit would probably be the closest you would get. You could try clicking on the...