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looks like a 70-72 duster/scamp to me.

I spray with a sata gun and the 10k price sounds right to me.

centauri from dupont is real good.as said above 180 the whole hood and then 320 and 400 wet. seal it and shoot it.

80 to 180 to 220 to primer then sand out the scratches.

if you are concerned about the drip rail, do what i've done. go to the nearest lowes, or home depot, get about 12 feet of 1/4 or 3/8 inch dowel(wood), soak it overnight in water, put your top on and use 5 or 6 sets of reach over vise grips, and clamp the dowel into the rail overnight. the water...

flatlander, block 400/600 and reshoot.on the metallics, i like to try to go two directions with the spray pattern. then i widen the pattern on the gun and mist a coat to even the metallic actoss the panel. the biggest problem i think that you will have is color match. unless you blend into the...

what they said. mud to bare metal, and NO laquer.

i go,bare metal 120 grit scuff with a d/a, etching primer, 2k urethane sanded to 400 grit or 600 grit wet, then topcoat. i aldo use a prep on the bare metal that has an acid in it to kill any rost that may be smaller than you can see. but only if i think i may have missed something.

in my opinion, there is no such thing as "over restored". the car lasted 30 plus years the way ma did it. if you are going to restore one to go to a concour event or tour the concour events for points toward a national show title, then sure. just dont ever plan on driving it. ever. if i'm going...

and there you have it.

amen demon.

did you get the nut on the bottom of the door?

natural mast, gray jack head and black base and tire iron in my car

silver gray black for meeeeee toooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!

thanks, i'll check it out.

hey realm, do you have a web address for the site that you reference here? or maybe you could post up 67-68 post dart/valiant #'s. thanks.

almost any auto parts store sells the pin/bushing kits in the help section. if you don't see them hanging there, go ask the help to get it for you. major improvement though. it will help.

aint this place great.

yeah, i agree with 1968formulas340. leave it in. you just need to put the factory blackout behind it. i love a s/t grille. tooooooooooooooo sweeeeet.

i restore old cars on the side and i don't remove the old glass. i call glass doctor to come do it for me. that way if it breaks, its on them. when the body is done, i call them back to reinstall it for me. i know what you are thinking but, 2 years from now when it leaks, if it leaks, it is on...

that is correct cars. this is the reason why i love base clear.sand the nib or run and buff her off.

i use SEM adhesives. but they all seem to work fine. like was mentioned above, i wouldnt try to remove the old. i'd just add to it.

this stuff is amazingly tough. you'll like it.i guarantee.

while you are in under there, you may want to replace the con rod bushings too. it just seems like the right thing to do since you are that deep in it and you have to remove the con rod anyways. the wipers sound so much better with new bushings.

y-2 or y-3, looks like to me. mine is w-1. and it aint that.

fine job man. this is exactly how i'd have done it accept for the primer. i use an etching primer and then an epoxy 2-k then a sealer. looks reallly good though.

iwanna know too. i decoded my vin once and it said it was a swinger. strange cause we all know that wasn't an option till 69. if we get an answer i may check it again. i'd just like to see all of the sedan numbers once for refrence.

i think hooligan is pretty close. and the por-15 is a gift from the muscke car godz.i've been doing the resto thing for many years and you can get lost and screwed and not really even know it. don't forget the local vo-tech shops. sometimes they take cars in to teach the high school kids on, and...

sweeeeet runner man. the best grease don't come out of the ground. rub-a-dub-dub,it looks awesome.

looks real good. the smaller places are much easier this way.you've done a fine job.keep it up.