6.1 Hemi 69 Barracuda Fastback Father Son Project

[RealWing]

Many thanks to @RealWing for blazing a trail for so many of us to follow.
Jim, if you are seeing this, A Great Big Thank You to you!
I find myself referring back to your build often.

You are very welcome!!! Glad I could help, however I noticed that you have infringed on some of my patent designs. Ha ha

Looks like you are making great progress on your build. I'm still working on my ''69 fastback resto and keep running into many issues with reproduction parts. Grrr 1969 Barracuda 340 Formula S Restoration

Jim/RealWing

 

[72bluNblu]

Hey @72bluNblu, I have calipers with the inlet on the bottom. I haven't done the brake lines yet.
Does it make any difference that I am running QA1 lower control arms?
I actually have 2 sets of these remanufactured pin on calipers and brackets for 11-3/4" rotors.
Both sets have the inlets on the bottom of course...
Searched through a bunch of calipers on Rock Auto, and they all had the inlets on the bottom.

Is there a style of front brake line that I could try with these calipers and my QA1 LCA's?
Straight, 90°, banjo, etc.?? Otherwise I guess I'll need to hunt down another style of Caliper?
Is the a Chrysler PN that I would need to look for?

Thanks again as always.
- Randy

The lower control arm shouldn't change anything relevant to the caliper clearance.

I believe the only calipers that have that bottom outlet were the '73/74 B bodies, everything else should have them somewhere else. But RockAuto's pictures may not show that, you can't necessarily count on their stock photo's matching the exact part number. E-body calipers have the offset hose location, as do earlier B-bodies and some FMJ's I believe.

And to be clear, it's not just a hose outlet difference. The body of the caliper itself is different, the '73/74 B-body calipers have a large protrusion on the bottom of the caliper that isn't there on the E-body calipers. You can't see it so much in the top picture, but this one makes it really clear...

I had heard of this issue before, but I ran into it myself a few years ago when I was installing 73+ disks on a buddy's car. I don't recall exactly what it was that the '73/74 B body caliper interferes with, but I know that there was nothing I had on hand (different brake lines) that could solve the issue. And to tie into the whole part number thing, the remanufactured calipers I had were supposed to be a set, but I had one of each kind.

There may be a hose line solution, but IIRC the issue is less about the hose line and more about the shape of the caliper itself.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

The lower control arm shouldn't change anything relevant to the caliper clearance.

I believe the only calipers that have that bottom outlet were the '73/74 B bodies, everything else should have them somewhere else. But RockAuto's pictures may not show that, you can't necessarily count on their stock photo's matching the exact part number. E-body calipers have the offset hose location, as do earlier B-bodies and some FMJ's I believe.

And to be clear, it's not just a hose outlet difference. The body of the caliper itself is different, the '73/74 B-body calipers have a large protrusion on the bottom of the caliper that isn't there on the E-body calipers. You can't see it so much in the top picture, but this one makes it really clear...

View attachment 1716374841

I had heard of this issue before, but I ran into it myself a few years ago when I was installing 73+ disks on a buddy's car. I don't recall exactly what it was that the '73/74 B body caliper interferes with, but I know that there was nothing I had on hand (different brake lines) that could solve the issue. And to tie into the whole part number thing, the remanufactured calipers I had were supposed to be a set, but I had one of each kind.

There may be a hose line solution, but IIRC the issue is less about the hose line and more about the shape of the caliper itself.

Yup, mine look just like the 73-74 B calipers in your picture.
I'll put it all together with what I have and go from there. I don't have any Pin on style 70-74 E-Body Calipers.
Maybe a buddy of mine here local does. I'll check with him.
In the meantime I ordered a pair of decently long stainless Brake hoses with 7/16 banjo
They were Amazon "Like New" used and only $16 plus still have free return... Same ones new were ~$65
So I figured worth a shot.

Thanks again for the help!
-Randy

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

Picture of my 73 C-Body (New Yorker) 1.25" thick x 11.75" Rotor on my 73 up A-Body spindle.
Got a pair of adapters for the outer bearings from Doctor Diff. (They're Not on his website, you need to email or text him.)
View attachment 1716374626
Had to remove a little material from the caliper brackets where the rotors touched. Marked in blue
Took off maybe an 1/8". It's a really beefy area of the brackets. The little material removed doesn't bother me.
View attachment 1716374627
Looks like this without the caliper.
View attachment 1716374628
Clearance of the rotor to bracket where I had to ground down the bracket.

View attachment 1716374630
I removed almost 2mm of friction material from the inner pads in order for the rotors to fit between the pads.
The inners were about 2mm thicker than the outers.
I put one side together using both outers and they fit fine, so decided to sand down the inners to the same thickness as the outers.
I did try a different set of pads that were the same inner/outer thickness, Bendix, both the inners and outers were interchangeable, all 4 pads were identical... I think the ones I have are Centrix but I could be mistaken. They came with shims on them which I removed which helped with fitting.

Hopefully will be able to get my calipers with the inlets on the bottom to work...
More research and test fitting ahead...

A few pictures of the Bearing Adapter Sleeve from Doctor Diff.
This allows a SET16 Outer Bearing to be used on an 73-up A/B/E/F/M/J Spindle with a thicker 11.75" x 1.25" 73 C-Body Rotor.
73C Rotor Has a .270" lower profile than B-Body 11.75" rotor when you lay them down side by side on a flat surface.

Bearing with the adapter in it.

Partly removed

To be continued... Stay tuned.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

Close but still not enough. No more rub on the lower front corners of the fenders but not moved in enough to not rub the top center of the wheel opening.
Have the torsion bars cranked up to keep the fender off the top of the tires... It's still just not quite enough.
Will either have to change wheels, change to a smaller tire, or trim the fenders...
Will see how it looks with a smaller tire first. Really didn't want to go smaller than a 245/45-17 but that will be the easy fix for a little while anyway... Still need to see if I need to change calipers. going to swap spindles side to side and calipers from rear mount to front mount...

Back to working on my Cold Air Intake too...

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

Ordered a pair of E-Body calipers from Rock Auto, since the ones I had were not going to work.
I had the calipers Rear Mounted and then switched them to Front Mounted and both ways were No-Go.
Inlets would not have room to connect the brake hoses.

QA1 K-Member, QA1 LCA.
Straight or Banjo, neither was going to clear the shock mount.
Closer than it looks here and it looks close. Passenger side with B-Body Caliper Front Mounted.

Plenty of clearance on the Driver's side with an E-Body caliper Front Mounted.
Just need to figure out what Brake Hose Part Number to order.
Need a straight one that just threads into the caliper end.
A length of rigid line 2-3 inches would be good, then the rest hose. 16" looks about right.

Any of you running Pin On E-Body Calipers, front mounted? Can you recommend a Brake Hose that works?

This brake hose is about the right length, 16", but need the caliper end to be threaded to screw direct into the caliper inlet without a banjo.

I finally got my front side marker bezels back from my painter...
So they are now on the car. Can check something off my list finally. Woo hoo.

Fronts are not reproduced and are different from the rears. Good ones can be hard to find.
I ended up with 3 pairs, these being the best ones.
Back side with the PN

The Rear.
I thought about making them lights, played around with some LED's and my old reflectors and mocked up a pair. Then decided not to... Reflectors are low maintenance.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

Ordered a pair of E-Body calipers from Rock Auto, since the ones I had were not going to work.
I had the calipers Rear Mounted and then switched them to Front Mounted and both ways were No-Go.
Inlets would not have room to connect the brake hoses.

QA1 K-Member, QA1 LCA.
Straight or Banjo, neither was going to clear the shock mount.
Closer than it looks here and it looks close. Passenger side with B-Body Caliper Front Mounted.
View attachment 1716377219

Plenty of clearance on the Driver's side with an E-Body caliper Front Mounted.
Just need to figure out what Brake Hose Part Number to order.
Need a straight one that just threads into the caliper end.
A length of rigid line 2-3 inches would be good, then the rest hose. 16" looks about right.

Any of you running Pin On E-Body Calipers, front mounted? Can you recommend a Brake Hose that works?

View attachment 1716377221

This brake hose is about the right length, 16", but need the caliper end to be threaded to screw direct into the caliper inlet without a banjo.
View attachment 1716377225View attachment 1716377226


I finally got my front side marker bezels back from my painter...
So they are now on the car. Can check something off my list finally. Woo hoo.
View attachment 1716377228View attachment 1716377229

Fronts are not reproduced and are different from the rears. Good ones can be hard to find.
I ended up with 3 pairs, these being the best ones.
Back side with the PN
View attachment 1716377230

View attachment 1716377231

The Rear.
I thought about making them lights, played around with some LED's and my old reflectors and mocked up a pair. Then decided not to... Reflectors are low maintenance.
View attachment 1716377232

Went back and reread through... and ordered 73 E-Body front brake hoses.
Should have them by tomorrow.

 

[mosleyme]

Close but still not enough. No more rub on the lower front corners of the fenders but not moved in enough to not rub the top center of the wheel opening.
Have the torsion bars cranked up to keep the fender off the top of the tires... It's still just not quite enough.
Will either have to change wheels, change to a smaller tire, or trim the fenders...
Will see how it looks with a smaller tire first. Really didn't want to go smaller than a 245/45-17 but that will be the easy fix for a little while anyway... Still need to see if I need to change calipers. going to swap spindles side to side and calipers from rear mount to front mount...

Back to working on my Cold Air Intake too...

Your wheel just isn’t deep enough. This is a 17x8 and 245/45-17 with ‘75 A-body spindle and the Cordoba rotors. No fender modifications and has wheel molding. Must run the shorter (no dome) Moog upper ball joint and there is about 1/2” clearance to the outer tie rod. Wheel barely clears over the grease fitting on the upper ball joint.

This is an 18x9 with a 255/40-18 AND a spacer. fits without a spacer also. can easily do 9.5” or 10” wheel with same offset and a 275/35-18 or a 285/35-18. These tires are in the 26” diameter range and require trimming the front edge. I have also rolled the lip and cleaned it up. The big difference is that the 18” wheel can go deeper because it clears the outer tie rod.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

View attachment 1716378033
Your wheel just isn’t deep enough. This is a 17x8 and 245/45-17 with ‘75 A-body spindle and the Cordoba rotors. No fender modifications and has wheel molding. Must run the shorter (no dome) Moog upper ball joint and there is about 1/2” clearance to the outer tie rod. Wheel barely clears over the grease fitting on the upper ball joint.

View attachment 1716378036
This is an 18x9 with a 255/40-18 AND a spacer. fits without a spacer also. can easily do 9.5” or 10” wheel with same offset and a 275/35-18 or a 285/35-18. These tires are in the 26” diameter range and require trimming the front edge. I have also rolled the lip and cleaned it up. The big difference is that the 18” wheel can go deeper because it clears the outer tie rod.

Thanks Michael, Yup, building the car for my son and he really wanted the Year One Rallye Wheels... Oh well.
Do you happen to have a PN for the "Shorter" Upper Ball Joint?
Or what Year, Make, Model car the came original equipment on?

 

[mosleyme]

Thanks Michael, Yup, building the car for my son and he really wanted the Year One Rallye Wheels... Oh well.
Do you happen to have a PN for the "Shorter" Upper Ball Joint?
Or what Year, Make, Model car the came original equipment on?

It is just standard '73-'76 A-body Upper Ball Joint from Moog.
I don't know who made the one on the left, but with the dome it would not clear a 17" wheel.
You may already have the correct type on the right.

Once you are "over" the ball joint your limit becomes the outer tie rod (OTR). So perfect offset on 17" is what leaves you a little clearance on the OTR.
With my '73'-76 spindle and Cordoba rotors that turned out to be 17x8 with 5.5" backspace, or a 1" offset wheel whichever way you want to think of it.

This is with 17x8 and 245/45-17 tire. These wheels and tires are on Josh Walton's car now. Prior owner of Josh's car is a friend.
When his car was in the body shop we used my car to fit test the wheels and tires since we had same suspension and brakes.

To go beyond a 245 under the car you would need to go to an 18". 18" clears the OTR. Then your limit is turn in to rubbing the frame.

You are limited to 25.5" tall tire without trimming the front edge of the wheel opening.
To go 25.5" or shorter on an 18" does not leave much sidewall. The 245/45-17 is a good look and has some sidewall.

My car is now fitted with an 18x9 and a 255/40-18. I have tested and can fit a 285/35-18. I like the 26" tall tires on a 18" wheel.

More on that modification and fitment:
1968 Barracuda Front Fender Modification for 26" Tires

Comparing 17" wheel with 25.5" tall tire to 18" wheel with 26" tall tire on front.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

Thanks again Michael! My upper ball joints do not have the Bump.

Back to looking at these American Racing wheels again...
When ordering from Wheels for Less Reseller, they offer the "VN501" off the shelf Mono-cast 1 Piece with zero offset $, Budget friendlier...
They also sell the "AR500" a Custom 2 Piece with choice of Color, Bolt Pattern and Custom offset $$$$
Same style wheels low cost one piece cast and more expensive custom two piece...

Standard finish is Black/Machined I would order them all Matte Black as in the picture above.

*Edit, 17x9 for the rear, 17x8 for the front.

The 73 C-Body, New Yorker 11.75" rotor is 1.245" thick but the rotor overall height is .27" shorter than the standard 1" thick rotors. That is they give a narrower track by .27" per side.
So with my 73 C-Body (New Yorker Rotors), I should be able to run a 5.25" Backspace... or 5.5" BS and add spacers to move outward as needed to clear the OTR.
Much easier adjust outward by adding spacers to move the wheel out if needed.

73 New Yorker Rotor specs, thicker rotor but moves the wheel mounting surface inward by .27"

Cordoba Rotor specs

- Randy

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

I think I'm close to a solution for the 73 C-Body Rotor, with 73 Up A/B/E spindles, Calipers and Brackets.
Just waiting on a couple parts before I can confirm...

In the meantime I spent a little time with some trial and error on a DIY Cold Air Intake.
Started with a couple versions of just heat shields but then decided to do a sealed box but without too many angles.
I'm pretty happy with this version mockup. The final will be either ABS or Sheetmetal, haven't decided yet. I have some sheet ABS so I'll try that first. Don't want a shiny aluminum tube, so it will be sanded and painted or powder coated wrinkle black. Need to drill for the MAF port first. The ABS sheet material I have has one side textured so will see if I like it before seeking to build one from Sheetmetal.

Nothing to hold the box in place yet. I'll add a couple hard mounting points to the finished box.
Straps or standoffs as needed. Will try to make use of existing bolt holes.

The box will have clearance space between it and every surface or component... Radiator, Fan Shroud, Core Support, Inner Fender, Alternator, Alternator Pulley... all have a decent amount of clearance.

I have a couple different ideas in my head for the lid.
1 - Plain Box Lid held on with simple thumbscrew knobs.
2 - Same as 1, but with Plexi window.
3 - Both above could be shoebox style lid.
4 - Or Flange the top of the Box so the lid can be a single flat piece of clear plexiglass.
I'm thinking transparent smoke color for the window, dark tint but can still be seen through.
Maybe a laser etched logo of The Mopar Swimming Barracuda, or some variation...

The Box will have a 4" inlet and 4" outlet, the air tube is 4" OD, my BBK Throttle body inlet is ~3.5" OD.
There is a just over 4" hole through the massive USCT core support (Supports my 26" Champion Radiator), I will connect the Core Support to the Air Box with a rubber or silicone connection, so it stays sealed and isolated from engine heat.

The air box is about 10-5/8" x 8.5" rectangle on top but the driver's side tapers inwards away from the inner fender. the bottom sits just above the drain hole that would be for the battery tray but I will use it to pass an airbox drain of of the engine bay.
The filter is pretty big, it has a 6" opening and is over 7" long.
The filter outlet uses an offset 6" to 4" reducer which makes it possible to mount near the top of the box.



Many thanks to @RealWing for blazing a trail for so many of us to follow.
Jim, if you are seeing this, A Great Big Thank You to you!
I find myself referring back to your build often.


View attachment 1716373445
View attachment 1716373446
View attachment 1716373447
View attachment 1716373498
View attachment 1716373501
View attachment 1716373504
View attachment 1716373450
View attachment 1716373451
View attachment 1716373459
Stole this pic off the interwebs... just to eyeball the path of airflow. Picture angles are a little different but gives a good idea of the location behind the grill.
View attachment 1716373462
Should get some pretty good airflow through this location. Could extend the box inlet to the back of the grill but not going to worry too much about that for now. More on my to do list ahead of that. Not going to be a lot of space between the egg crate/parking light bracket assembly and the core support.

Now to see if I can build the Airbox out of ABS...

Making progress with my DIY CAI

Laid out my cardboard Airbox model and transferred the measurements to a sheet of1/8" thick Black Textured ABS plastic.
Thought about how I wanted to make the corners and decided to create Tabs that would bend and be inside the box to attach them to the adjacent sidewalls after forming the box.

Once I was happy with the layout, I used a piece of flat bar steel as a cutting guide and to clamp down and hold my plastic as I cut it out with a Dremel plastic cutting disc. Keeping the Airbox plastic under the bar stock as a guide helped to keep my lines nice and straight and any slips would be into the waste material.

Set up here for my first cut.

Just happened to work out with the 2 longest straight pieces landed on factory edges.
Here it is all cut out.

I made a sheet bender with some scrap pieces of wood, a heat strip, some aluminum foil and some aluminum heat duct tape.
Figured out the order to make my bends without blocking any of the next bends... and started heating and bending. Here is the first bend. Then heating 3 tabs that need to fit inside the box, so these needed to shift inward a little bit. This is where there is a bit of guesswork... No directions included...

Next side...

After making all the bends and some gorilla tape to hold it together. Not too bad...

Cut a hole for the filter and test the fit. It's Good!

I'll make a shield to go in front of the filter to prevent debris coming straight through the grill into the filter.
I'll make a drain out the bottom corner nearest the fender. That corner is directly over what I think was the battery tray drain hole...

Thought about how to fasten all the tabs to the adjacent inside walls, and decided to not just glue but glue and screw.
Will use a combination of glue and fasteners to make sure it is plenty strong and durable.
Will make some standoffs and mount the box through the core support and the inner fender.
After I get the location exactly where I want it, I'll cut a hole in the Airbox for the Air inlet connection to line up with the hole in the core support. The Airbox will be connected to the core support with a short section of 4" rubber hose.

Waiting on some black Truss Head fasteners now...
Thinking about different Lid configurations, multiple versions bouncing around in my head.
ABS Flat lid with fasteners down through the lid to the box.
ABS Shoebox style lid with fasteners through the sides of the lid into the box.
Plexiglass or acrylic lid
Metal lid
ABS lid with an Acrylic window
Probably go very basic to start and then maybe change it later on down the road...

 

[mosleyme]

Thanks again Michael! My upper ball joints do not have the Bump.

Back to looking at these American Racing wheels again...
When ordering from Wheels for Less Reseller, they offer the "VN501" off the shelf Mono-cast 1 Piece with zero offset $, Budget friendlier...
They also sell the "AR500" a Custom 2 Piece with choice of Color, Bolt Pattern and Custom offset $$$$
Same style wheels low cost one piece cast and more expensive custom two piece...

View attachment 1716379047
Standard finish is Black/Machined I would order them all Matte Black as in the picture above.
View attachment 1716379048

The 73 C-Body, New Yorker 11.75" rotor is 1.245" thick but the rotor overall height is .27" shorter than the standard 1" thick rotors. That is they give a narrower track by .27" per side.
So with my 73 C-Body (New Yorker Rotors), I should be able to run a 5.25" Backspace... or 5.5" BS and add spacers to move outward as needed to clear the OTR.
Much easier adjust outward by adding spacers to move the wheel out if needed.

73 New Yorker Rotor specs, thicker rotor but moves the wheel mounting surface inward by .27"
View attachment 1716379042

Cordoba Rotor specs
View attachment 1716379044

- Randy

You have the wheels in there now.
Measure how far they are from the outer tie rod, that should tell you what you need to know.

If you use a spacer try to go with hub centered and get hub rings for the wheels also.

 

[72bluNblu]

Thanks again Michael! My upper ball joints do not have the Bump.

Back to looking at these American Racing wheels again...
When ordering from Wheels for Less Reseller, they offer the "VN501" off the shelf Mono-cast 1 Piece with zero offset $, Budget friendlier...
They also sell the "AR500" a Custom 2 Piece with choice of Color, Bolt Pattern and Custom offset $$$$
Same style wheels low cost one piece cast and more expensive custom two piece...

View attachment 1716379047
Standard finish is Black/Machined I would order them all Matte Black as in the picture above.
View attachment 1716379048

The 73 C-Body, New Yorker 11.75" rotor is 1.245" thick but the rotor overall height is .27" shorter than the standard 1" thick rotors. That is they give a narrower track by .27" per side.
So with my 73 C-Body (New Yorker Rotors), I should be able to run a 5.25" Backspace... or 5.5" BS and add spacers to move outward as needed to clear the OTR.
Much easier adjust outward by adding spacers to move the wheel out if needed.

73 New Yorker Rotor specs, thicker rotor but moves the wheel mounting surface inward by .27"
View attachment 1716379042

Cordoba Rotor specs
View attachment 1716379044

- Randy

9’s up front realistically means 18’s or extensive fender work.

17x9 +0 won’t cut it. A 9” wheel up front realistically needs almost 6” of backspace to clear the fender (on a 73+ set up), a +0 is only 5” so even if you’ve got an extra 1/4” vs a standard 73+ set up that’s still no where near enough.

The problem is this- you still have the same clearance issue to the outer tie rod. Typically that’s an issue at around 5.6” of backspace with a 17”, for you that means it’s gonna be an issue at around 5.35”. So yeah, the 17x9 +0 for you is like an effective 5.25” of backspace compared to a 73+ brake set up, but you’d still realistically need close 5.75” to make the wheel actually fit in the fender, but that won’t clear the tie rod.

Like @mosleyme said, you have 17x8 +0’s on there now, your best bet is to measure the distance you’ve got from the outer tie rod end to your current wheel and take most of that distance and add it to the backspace of your current wheel to figure what you want on the next set.

And think about it this way, 17x9 +0’s will stick out an extra 1/2” compared to your current 17x8 +0’s. Centerline is the same, wheel lip moves out a 1/2” on both sides.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

9’s up front realistically means 18’s or extensive fender work.

17x9 +0 won’t cut it. A 9” wheel up front realistically needs almost 6” of backspace to clear the fender (on a 73+ set up), a +0 is only 5” so even if you’ve got an extra 1/4” vs a standard 73+ set up that’s still no where near enough.

The problem is this- you still have the same clearance issue to the outer tie rod. Typically that’s an issue at around 5.6” of backspace with a 17”, for you that means it’s gonna be an issue at around 5.35”. So yeah, the 17x9 +0 for you is like an effective 5.25” of backspace compared to a 73+ brake set up, but you’d still realistically need close 5.75” to make the wheel actually fit in the fender, but that won’t clear the tie rod.

Like @mosleyme said, you have 17x8 +0’s on there now, your best bet is to measure the distance you’ve got from the outer tie rod end to your current wheel and take most of that distance and add it to the backspace of your current wheel to figure what you want on the next set.

And think about it this way, 17x9 +0’s will stick out an extra 1/2” compared to your current 17x8 +0’s. Centerline is the same, wheel lip moves out a 1/2” on both sides.

Doh! my bad, should have said, off the shelf one piece 17x9 5" BS would be for the rears...
I know those fit, same as what's on there now.
The Custom 2 piece 17x8 with custom BS, 5.25, 5.5, 5.75 etc. can be ordered and would be for the fronts.

I'll put the Year One 17x8s back on and measure wheel clearance to the OTR end.
Won't be exact because no front end alignment on the car, everything is just bolted together out of the box.
Eyeballed for everything and the torsion bars cranked up to keep the tires from hitting the fender lips.
It should give me some idea how much further back I can go though.

I'll measure clearance with the standard 11.75" rotors too. I'd be okay with going with the BS to fit the standard rotor and a spacer to use the same wheel with the 73 C-Body rotor...

Measure actual backspace of my 17x8s
Measure clearance to OTR end
17x8 BS + clearance to OTR = new wheel BS
Can always add minimal spacer if I end up too close to the otr after alignment.

 

[mosleyme]

Doh! my bad, should have said, off the shelf one piece 17x9 5" BS would be for the rears...
I know those fit, same as what's on there now.
The Custom 2 piece 17x8 with custom BS, 5.25, 5.5, 5.75 etc. can be ordered and would be for the fronts.

I'll put the Year One 17x8s back on and measure wheel clearance to the OTR end.
Won't be exact because no front end alignment on the car, everything is just bolted together out of the box.
Eyeballed for everything and the torsion bars cranked up to keep the tires from hitting the fender lips.
It should give me some idea how much further back I can go though.

I'll measure clearance with the standard 11.75" rotors too. I'd be okay with going with the BS to fit the standard rotor and a spacer to use the same wheel with the 73 C-Body rotor...

Measure actual backspace of my 17x8s
Measure clearance to OTR end
17x8 BS + clearance to OTR = new wheel BS
Can always add minimal spacer if I end up too close to the otr after alignment.

The alignment will not change the outer tie rod location vs the wheel. That is fixed by the geometry of the spindle and lower ball joint.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

The alignment will not change the outer tie rod location vs the wheel. That is fixed by the geometry of the spindle and lower ball joint.

Of course... dummy me.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

After setting ride height, the OTR has a full 1" clearance but the closest is the SPC UCA at about 5/8"-3/4" from side to side...

Set the car to ride height by lowering the tension of the TBs and bouncing the front up and down.
Then checking the range of motion again... nothing rubbed. Scratching my head now... didn't touch anywhere.
Still the closest point was the lower front fender but there was an 1/8" or so of daylight...
Taking all of the tension off the TBs allowed the tire to go up past the fender lip without hitting... straight or turning... Not the same as real world driving so...
Going to stop right there for now. Want to get to the point where I can get it running before changing anything else with regards to wheels and tires.

Note to self.
So I can look back and see where I landed... because my memory is not what it used to be.
Shaved .3" off the back of the Year One Wheels = actual measured Backspace is 4-5/8" now.
73 C-Body Rotor gains equivalent + .27" positive offset = 4.895" Call it 4.9"...
1/8" daylight clearing the lower front fender corner at ride height.

Moving on.

 

['Cuda_ragtop]

If you still have old style sealed beam headlights and want to upgrade for a low price.
Great deal on 7" Headlight Conversion with Relays.
Glass Headlight Housings with replaceable H4 bulbs included.
I ordered this set from Lakeland Toyota $16.49 + $11 shipping. Such a good deal I ordered 2 Sets.
Not installed yet, but a very good deal on Toyota quality parts.
For about the cost of a couple of replacement sealed beams you can convert to 7" Glass Lamps, with replaceable H4 bulbs, plus wiring and relays.

Everything seen in the pictures is included in the kits I bought from Lakeland Toyota.
Link: Lakeland Toyota - Headlamp Assembly 81110-60P70

Showing the H4 bulb removed and the 7" glass headlamp it was preinstalled in.

 

[toplscuda]

Wow thats a great price for a complete kit. Just ordered one for my car
Thanks

 

[Red383]

If you still have old style sealed beam headlights and want to upgrade for a low price.
Great deal on 7" Headlight Conversion with Relays.
Glass Headlight Housings with replaceable H4 bulbs included.
I ordered this set from Lakeland Toyota $16.49 + $11 shipping. Such a good deal I ordered 2 Sets.

I used this kit in my Dart. I used the harness that came with the kit but shortened the wiring and re-wrapped it to make it appear more stock. I haven't put on a lot of nighttime miles yet, but so far I am happy with them.