72 Dart Swinger 3.6L Pentastar +T5

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Been a while since my last update.

Finally got her on the Dyno for some tuning. Mostly focused on tuning the VVT and testing different Pentastar Upper and Lower intakes.
Overall gains were +25whp and+19ftlbs

Full disclosure: imo that dyno is reading a good 25hp too high but the gains from tuning are legit, which is all I care about.


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myduster360 said:
Been a while since my last update.

Finally got her on the Dyno for some tuning. Mostly focused on tuning the VVT and testing different Pentastar Upper and Lower intakes.
Overall gains were +25whp and+19ftlbs


View attachment 1716316327View attachment 1716316328View attachment 1716316329
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Nice!

Couple of questions:

1. Speedometer connections?

You posted about using a Dakota Digital signal converter and you made mention of unhooking your ABS module so I gather that you are running one. Did you not use the converter or did it just not work? Guessing your plan is to send the ABS module a speed signal and let it generate and send the proper messages on the CanBUS network, correct?

2. Thinsulate thoughts?

It doesn't appear that 3M lists the Thinsulate material for automotive uses anymore but does have other products that are specific to it. Just curious how you felt the Thinsulate worked and if you would go a different direction if you were to do it again.

3. Steering column mount?

I missed if you made mention of you steering column. It appears you are using the Jeep steering column? Curious how you mounted it and if it worked well.
 
With all the NA dyno tuning done, its SUPERCHARGER TIME!!

I have it currently running well with the cams still where they were NA. She'll break my sticky autocross tires loose in 2nd gear easily enough.
The plan is to get back on the Dyno and sweep the cams again to see how adding 7-8psi changes things.

After 93oct is done tuned, E85 is next.
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More install pics
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Low temp Radiator for the IC fits nicely in front of the LX Radiator
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The Edelbrock Wrangler TVS 1320 needed its intercooler water lines changed to 90s to clear the firewall. I had to switch back to my 3speed wiper to clear the back of the blower.
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The Wrangler IC water lines only needed small adjustments to fit

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DionR said:
Nice!

Couple of questions:

1. Speedometer connections?
Jeep ABS sensors are goofy +12v & not the low voltage, variable reluctance of most all speed sensors that the Dakota box is made for. So I'm stuck figuring out how/where to a ~52 tooth tone wheel for the factory sensors

2. Thinsulate thoughts?

Decent enough but honestly there's still too many holes and gaps in the car to properly evaluate it. ei: Steering column, trans tunnel
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DionR said:
3. Steering column mount?

I missed if you made mention of you steering column. It appears you are using the Jeep steering column? Curious how you mounted it and if it worked well.

I just hacked up a factory backet and welded it to the Wrangler. It bolts into the same 3 bolts as stock. Sorry no pictures handy.
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reply in RED
 
myduster360 said:
More install pics
View attachment 1716316333

Low temp Radiator for the IC fits nicely in front of the LX Radiator
View attachment 1716316334

The Edelbrock Wrangler TVS 1320 needed its intercooler water lines changed to 90s to clear the firewall. I had to switch back to my 3speed wiper to clear the back of the blower.
View attachment 1716316335

The Wrangler IC water lines only needed small adjustments to fit

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Click to expand...
Any idea what this thing weighs?
 
When I'm not wrenching on the actual 5.7 swap, I am busy trying to figure out how to retrofit ABS and wheel speed sensors to my '73 Duster. Project started because I wanted cruise control and since I am using a factory PCM, why not use the factory CC controls in the PCM, which means I need a stock or semi stock speed input. Originally I was just going to wire up one sensor and not plumb in a ABS module but it has rabbit holed into a full 4 channel ABS swap using an HCU from a 2009 Challenger SRT8 6M.

My plan is to use '15+ Mustang rear axle hubs front and back to provide the tone wheel. I think they are even 52 tooth wheels. I have a plan for a custom front spindle and am working on a rear axle mount as well. Many revisions to go though and I haven't confirmed yet that I can get an axle made that can squeeze the bearing like stock. But a company called MillerBuilt does something similar with C5/6/7 hubs so I don't think it is impossible.

Certainly easier ways to do it though. Strange has a kit to mount '05+ Mustang brakes to 9" axle ends that includes the option to keep the ABS tone ring and sensor. Those tone rings are only 50 tooth though. And since I have an 8.75 I would need to narrow anyways, using 9" axle ends would be easy. Add a custom tone ring to the front hubs I have now and a simple sensor mount and I would probably be golden. But I'm too dumb to do anything the easy way.
 
myduster360 said:
With all the NA dyno tuning done, its SUPERCHARGER TIME!!

I have it currently running well with the cams still where they were NA. She'll break my sticky autocross tires loose in 2nd easily enough.
The plan is to get back on the Dyno and sweep the cams again and see how 7-8psi changes things.

After 93oct is done tuned, E85 is next.
View attachment 1716316331
Click to expand...
Finally! I’ve been waiting for that specific update since I saw you mention it a long time ago. That’s the edlebrock jeep kit correct?

Edited to add;
You answered my question in your next post. Thanks
 
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A nice added benefit of a modern engine is Variable Valve Timing! You can change the Intake and Exhaust Cam Centerline independently and thus overlap

Before we installed the Edelbrock Supercharger, we got our 3.6l swapped 1972 Dart Swinger test rig on the dyno for some Pentastar R&D.

First thing was to dial in the Intake and Exhaust Centerlines by "sweeping the cams".

Since the Intake Cam timing has significantly more impact on performance, the standard procedure is to fix the Exhaust timing at a reasonable value and then vary the Intake a few degrees every pull.
Once optimum Intake Centerline is found, you then vary the Exhaust timing a few degrees every pull.

Once optimal Exhaust Centerlines are found, you go back and tweak the Intake Cam timing as needed.


Here are the dyno pulls from the Intake from 70degrees ATDC to 130degree ATDC. The exhaust was fixed at ~110degrees BTDC
The Torque & Hp peaks varied as much as 75fltb and Hp by around 80whp
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Once we have the resultant HP/Trq curves the final WOT cam timing is dialed in by taking the "best" results through out the entire RPM range.

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A dozen or so dyno pulls to optimize the Cams rewarded the Dart with an overall gain of ~10hp & 15ftlb over stock
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