Anybody use clutch tamer

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SlantedDart

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Hey guys. Just installed a clutch tamer in my Dart. I get the concept of it but just wanted to hear any real world experience. Per the website it says launch the car at 2,000 above peak torque.. for me that would be 7400.. my rev limiter is set at 7 haha. Just wondering what a good start is. I know all setups are different but for what it’s worth it’s a gen3 6.4 with a tkx 4.30 gear and drag radials thanks
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I’ve read the instructions on line but haven’t had the chance to tune with one yet.

I’d call Grant and talk to him about it. He’s done more tuning with his own stuff than probably anyone else.

@weedburner

We will see if Grant checks in.
 
Before tuning the 'tamer, be sure your pedal stop adjustment allows clean hi-rpm shifts, also try to make sure there isn't any obvious chassis setup problems that will compromise your potential. Shock travel and suspension issues are pretty common.

With 4.30 gears and not knowing what clutch you have, I would start with the outer knob 2 turns from zero. From there make some short 1 second clutch dumps off the pedal stop from 4500 or so...
...If the tires spin, turn the inner dial counter-clockwise a couple turns.
...If the engine bogs, turn the inner dial clockwise a couple turns.
Repeat until you find the line between spinning/bogging, then back off the inner dial one turn from there in the counter-clockwise direction. Don't go crazy, no more than 3 consecutive 1sec dumps without giving the clutch some time to cool. On a nose heavy car, a little 150 or so rpm flare on launch will give the car a little time to transfer weight before the tires see the full hit of the clutch.

From there start making full hits while incrementally raising launch rpm. When you have raised launch as far as you are comfortable with and the engine still bogs more than you like, then you can start adjusting the outer knob 2 turns clockwise per hit until the bog goes away.

The above will help you get most of what's available from your current combo as it sits. If you make any adjustments that improve the chassis, those adjustments may in-turn allow you to get more aggressive with your 'tamer settings.

Grant
 
I have had good luck with a Clutch Tamer. As stated above the way it is set up will depend on the clutch. If you have a ton of pp PSI and a sintered bronze material you can get away with a very soft engagement. I set my Tamer to start working on the last 1" of pedal travel. I leave about 1/4" of clearance between the pp fingers and t/out bearing and the rest is sloppy mopar linkage rods.

You have a hydraulic setup that might need more or less travel.

I moved to a 800lb base RAM 10" billet unit with a sintered iron disc and will again use the tamer so I can be lazy and just add and subtract counterweight on the levers if absolutely necessary.
 
I have had good luck with a Clutch Tamer. As stated above the way it is set up will depend on the clutch. If you have a ton of pp PSI and a sintered bronze material you can get away with a very soft engagement. I set my Tamer to start working on the last 1" of pedal travel. I leave about 1/4" of clearance between the pp fingers and t/out bearing and the rest is sloppy mopar linkage rods.

You have a hydraulic setup that might need more or less travel.

I moved to a 800lb base RAM 10" billet unit with a sintered iron disc and will again use the tamer so I can be lazy and just add and subtract counterweight on the levers if absolutely necessary.
Curious on your rear suspension set up? I just put on strange doubles. Had the Caltrac shocks and couldn’t get them tight enough.. I have split monos on my dart also. Forgot to mention in first post the clutch is a Ram 10” power grip. One side organic other side has 6 pucks.
 
Before tuning the 'tamer, be sure your pedal stop adjustment allows clean hi-rpm shifts, also try to make sure there isn't any obvious chassis setup problems that will compromise your potential. Shock travel and suspension issues are pretty common.

With 4.30 gears and not knowing what clutch you have, I would start with the outer knob 2 turns from zero. From there make some short 1 second clutch dumps off the pedal stop from 4500 or so...
...If the tires spin, turn the inner dial counter-clockwise a couple turns.
...If the engine bogs, turn the inner dial clockwise a couple turns.
Repeat until you find the line between spinning/bogging, then back off the inner dial one turn from there in the counter-clockwise direction. Don't go crazy, no more than 3 consecutive 1sec dumps without giving the clutch some time to cool. On a nose heavy car, a little 150 or so rpm flare on launch will give the car a little time to transfer weight before the tires see the full hit of the clutch.

From there start making full hits while incrementally raising launch rpm. When you have raised launch as far as you are comfortable with and the engine still bogs more than you like, then you can start adjusting the outer knob 2 turns clockwise per hit until the bog goes away.

The above will help you get most of what's available from your current combo as it sits. If you make any adjustments that improve the chassis, those adjustments may in-turn allow you to get more aggressive with your 'tamer settings.

Grant
Thanks for the tips!
 
Curious on your rear suspension set up? I just put on strange doubles. Had the Caltrac shocks and couldn’t get them tight enough.. I have split monos on my dart also. Forgot to mention in first post the clutch is a Ram 10” power grip.

I was running the powergrip hd which is the same sintered bronze puck arrangement on both sides of the clutch disc. It likes some rpm at low speeds and to get moving. I also ran the same disc you are running at about 600iish hp in my 3600lb 66 Charger with good results. You will likely wear out the sintered bronze sode pf the disc first becaise that is what slip at instances of higher RPM/tire plant.

I am a big fan of any type of hydraulic shock in place of anything gas charged.

Gas charged shocks SUCK. Just one guy's opinion : D

SA, DA, whatever as long as they are filled with oil instead of gas and adjustable. My GTS has DA's all around and until recently it was running the leaf springs it was born with, some Vikings in the front, QA1 in the rear. From memory my best 60' was a 1.64 on a 235/60/14 m&h (prepped track).

It would usually take me 8-10 hits on Friday t and t to dial the car in for a Sat-Sun no prep deal. Those events are a little more tricky.

The clutch tamer definitely made the car work on that tiny tire with the worlds world's harshest single disc street clutch and (3100 lb) pressure plate.

Probably the best thing you could do is add a nitrous kit. That extra power will really get it up on the tire : D

That and test, test, test. I could make 10+ passes on a t and t night if I had a test plan put together. It's good to make a list of intended changes before going to the track IMO. Stick to the script, take lots of notes.
 
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I was running the powergrip hd which is the same sintered bronze puck arrangement on both sides of the clutch disc. It likes some rpm at low speeds and to get moving. I also ran the same disc you are running at about 600iish hp in my 3600lb 66 Charger with good results. You will likely wear out the sintered bronze sode pf the disc first becaise that is what slip at instances of higher RPM/tire plant.

I am a big fan of any type of hydraulic shock in place of anything gas charged.

Gas charged shocks SUCK. Just one guy's opinion : D

SA, DA, whatever as long as they are filled with oil instead of gas and adjustable. My GTS has DA's all around and until recently it was running the leaf springs it was born with, some Vikings in the front, QA1 in the rear. From memory my best 60' was a 1.64 on a 235/60/14 m&h (prepped track).

It would usually take me 8-10 hits on Friday t and t to dial the car in for a Sat-Sun no prep deal. Those events are a little more tricky.

The clutch tamer definitely made the car work on that tiny tire with the worlds world's harshest single disc street clutch and (3100 lb) pressure plate.

Probably the best thing you could do is add a nitrous kit. That extra power will really get it up on the tire : D

That and test, test, test. I could make 10+ passes on a t and t night if I had a test plan put together. It's good to make a list of intended changes before going to the track IMO. Stick to the script, take lots of notes.
Thanks for the tips I appreciate it. Lastly do i set the clutch tamer up initially at the track or on some non prepped surface. Sounds like a dumb question but figured id ask
 
Thanks for the tips I appreciate it. Lastly do i set the clutch tamer up initially at the track or on some non prepped surface. Sounds like a dumb question but figured id ask


See post 3. I think Grant covered it there.

Also, his web site has a pretty large quantity of useful information on it.
 
Thanks for the tips I appreciate it. Lastly do i set the clutch tamer up initially at the track or on some non prepped surface. Sounds like a dumb question but figured id ask
My advice would be to find a safe place to do some first second hits and get used to how the Tamer reacts as the clutch heats up Etc
 
Thanks for the tips I appreciate it. Lastly do i set the clutch tamer up initially at the track or on some non prepped surface. Sounds like a dumb question but figured id ask
If you are a bracket/index guy and tune for a dead hook on the worst surface you are likely to run on, won't need to change much to run on a good surface :)
I'd love to see more install pics, and details on A body installation process.
@weedburner your inbox is full
I might have a few pics back at the shop, but I won't be back until next week. Just made some room in my inbox...

Grant
 
Hey guys. Just installed a clutch tamer in my Dart. I get the concept of it but just wanted to hear any real world experience. Per the website it says launch the car at 2,000 above peak torque.. for me that would be 7400.. my rev limiter is set at 7 haha. Just wondering what a good start is. I know all setups are different but for what it’s worth it’s a gen3 6.4 with a tkx 4.30 gear and drag radials thanks View attachment 1716305403
Do you mind sharing any installation tips, or specs on your bracket plate? I'm considering purchasing one of these setups. I was mistakenly under the idea these were a significant hassle to install in an A body, looking at your photos that doesn't seem to be the case.
 
Do you mind sharing any installation tips, or specs on your bracket plate? I'm considering purchasing one of these setups. I was mistakenly under the idea these were a significant hassle to install in an A body, looking at your photos that doesn't seem to be the case.
It wasn’t too bad. Just have to make sure you don’t max out the clutch tamer. My pedal had somewhere of 5” stroke and the tamer has 3” I drilled and tapped the pedal for two 10/32 machine screws. Used the bolt hole from the parking brake bracket. I think it came out to a 2” offset from that bolt hole. I would have liked to make a custom tab on the pedal side but I was being lazy and just ground out a radius in the bracket to clear the cylinder at full extension.
 
It wasn’t too bad. Just have to make sure you don’t max out the clutch tamer. My pedal had somewhere of 5” stroke and the tamer has 3” I drilled and tapped the pedal for two 10/32 machine screws. Used the bolt hole from the parking brake bracket. I think it came out to a 2” offset from that bolt hole. I would have liked to make a custom tab on the pedal side but I was being lazy and just ground out a radius in the bracket to clear the cylinder at full extension.
I have my timer set up with adjustable stops on the all thread so it has a few inches of free play Going Down and does not slow anything down until the last 1 inch of upward travel when the clutch disc starts to make contact. This is why they have you check the clutch disc to flywheel clearance with a feeler gauge and run a pedal stop of course. You have to have repeatability or else things will get torn up pretty quick when it comes to a stick car.
 
I have my timer set up with adjustable stops on the all thread so it has a few inches of free play Going Down and does not slow anything down until the last 1 inch of upward travel when the clutch disc starts to make contact. This is why they have you check the clutch disc to flywheel clearance with a feeler gauge and run a pedal stop of course. You have to have repeatability or else things will get torn up pretty quick when it comes to a stick car.
Have a pic of that?
 
Made it out to the track. Clutch tamer worked like a charm on the first hit planted the tire well! Slipped just a touch too much but I think it damaged the clutch. Second hit I added more to the “hit knob” chattered the tires hooked back up and couldn’t get it into any gears.. radial are violent.. may have to switch to slick. Have to open it up and see what’s wrong but nothing is disengaging so it’s probably welded together. While running I don’t hear anything angry just won’t go into any gear. When shut off it goes kinda in gear. Pedal feels normal. Any suggestions on a clutch that will take the heat and still drive on the street well? Have a video but not sure how to add it
IMG_3186.jpeg
IMG_3191.png
 
I ran a powergrip HD. It had a pretty harsh engagement below 2000rpm with 3.23 gears. It worked excellent with a clutch tamer at the track.

Does the clutch disc you are running have a regular sprung hub or are the springs encased in urethane?

I think you said on Facebook you are running a non HD power grip correct?
 
Made it out to the track. Clutch tamer worked like a charm on the first hit planted the tire well! Slipped just a touch too much but I think it damaged the clutch. Second hit I added more to the “hit knob” chattered the tires hooked back up and couldn’t get it into any gears.. radial are violent.. may have to switch to slick. Have to open it up and see what’s wrong but nothing is disengaging so it’s probably welded together. While running I don’t hear anything angry just won’t go into any gear. When shut off it goes kinda in gear. Pedal feels normal. Any suggestions on a clutch that will take the heat and still drive on the street well? Have a video but not sure how to add it View attachment 1716311128View attachment 1716311129


Your sidewall says you have beat the tire to death.

I have a video of what that looks like but it’s not my car and I never did find the owner to ask him if it’s ok to make it public.

I may upload it to my YouTube page but I do not want to make the guy think I’m banging on him.

But his car is the perfect example of beating a tire to death with a stick.

Edit: I doubt one run killed the clutch. You’d have to drive through it very hard to hurt it.

In fact I’ve seen more clutches killed in the burnout than I have driving through the clutch on a pass.

BTDT.

Thinking of it, I’m not sure you can drive through the clutch with a clutch tamer because the pedal is all the way out and the clutch should be locked up for that.
 
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Found it...
About post #71 it starts getting into pictures...
Tame my 4-speed Stroker....

You'll have to excuse yellow rose and his petty bickering. As at that time, he hadn't heard of this product. So just like most people are afraid of what they don't know.... Maybe he's still using a rag clutch...
 
Found it...
About post #71 it starts getting into pictures...
Tame my 4-speed Stroker....

You'll have to excuse yellow rose and his petty bickering. As at that time, he hadn't heard of this product. So just like most people are afraid of what they don't know.... Maybe he's still using a rag clutch...


Not hardly. I give people both options. An adjustable clutch is still better but some guys can’t or won’t pay for it.

Simple as that.
 
I ran a powergrip HD. It had a pretty harsh engagement below 2000rpm with 3.23 gears. It worked excellent with a clutch tamer at the track.

Does the clutch disc you are running have a regular sprung hub or are the springs encased in urethane?

I think you said on Facebook you are running a non HD power grip correct?
Non Hd yes. It’s got urethane on 3 of the six
 
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