I realize that, honestly I hav`nt a clue and can`t remember and could`nt see exactly where that piece of shim was jambed in there, I just seen a piece of metal, grabbed it with a needle nose and yanked it out. When disassembling I did`nt see any other remnants of the shim.Pinion appears to far away. The shim you said that you pulled out from behind the larger race is normal. Some shimmed the bearing behind the bearing on the pinion and some times people add shims behind the race to move the pinion closer to the ring gear. It saved from pulling the bearing off the pinion and potentially damaging it.
I think my pics may be decieving , I think the pinion is in pretty deep but is showing up as a smear instead of the bare metal marking, if you look real close, at the previous pics with larger backlash. Here is a couple pics as requested,.......I would also say the pinion is out to far...Can u post a couple of pics of the pinion gear from where its meshing with the crown.....flip the pumpkin upside down for them.........kim.....
Yes I realized that after I laid a cone shim against the large race and seen it would just fall through, but a piece was in their, somewhere none the less.Any shim that was installed behind the back pinion bearing race wouldn't be just a piece of metal jammed in there. It'd be a complete circular shim that fits the back side of the race against the case well. In other words it'll look like the shim behind the bearing but larger. I've found it's easier to read the pattern when you don't use so much marking grease. When it's real thick like you put on it can smear. You don't have to completely remove the grease. Take enough off so it's not smearing out so much and level it out with your grease brush. Really doesn't take a lot of grease. When you get the grease smoothed out rotate it to where it's just about to contact the pinion teeth then hold the pinion yoke with one hand real tight and with the other hand rotate the carrier until the grease patch is completely through then backwards to get the coast pattern. I have never had to apply pressure via any other means than just the resistance I apply by holding the pinion as tight as I can. Hope that makes sense.
OK you just confused the crap out of me with that statement.You shouldn't need the inch lb. torque wrench anymore since you have the pinion bearing preload set. Any pinion depth shims you put in or take out won't affect the preload. That's solely determined by the spacer between the bearings.
OK you just confused the crap out of me with that statement.
I still need it cause I been using the old nut and left out the seal untill it`s determined I don`t need to reshim or not.
Maybe I went about this thing completely wrong, maybe I should explain the whole process I took to set this thing up?
Yes I`ve read of the honed out bearing, I was hopeing to use the original shim, and luck out, I should of known better with my luck.For ease of set up it's nice to have an extra pinion bearing honed out just enough to slip on and off by hand. It gives you the ability to make changes with ease.
You also haven't mentioned adjusting the ring in or out, have you moved that at all?
To your question yes, post 1 and 26
The first time I tightned the yoke my wrench was set on 80 ft.lb.s
It did`nt even click yet and that jambed the pinion so tight I could`nt budge it by hand, so that`s when I backed it off to determine what nut torque was required to give me the 20 in.lb of drag for future refference/assembly.
If I was to go to 175- I`m thinking it`d take a 4' pipe wrench to turn that yoke.
Your saying adding shim, where? to do what?
I was hopeing to use the original shim, and luck out, I should of known better with my luck.
The drive side is deep, and i don't like how it's marking the coast side, marking heavy on the toe and then moving off it...
Something is wrong there.
Coast side shows the pinion is to far away from the ring gear. The drive side? I can't see it.