FiTech EFI system

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Johnny Pace hooked me up with the pro billet MSD clone distributor. Very nice piece. Followed the Fitech instructions based on base timing of 10* BTDC although my motor likes 18* base. Starts up ok but feels like it's too far advanced and kicks back on the starter. I have the rotor, reluctor and No 1 on the cap lined up pretty well. Tried phasing the rotor +/- 5-10* but can't quiet get it right.

Anybody have any tips or any experience doing timing with the Fitech?

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subcom said:
Johnny Pace hooked me up with the pro billet MSD clone distributor. Very nice piece. Followed the Fitech instructions based on base timing of 10* BTDC although my motor likes 18* base. Starts up ok but feels like it's too far advanced and kicks back on the starter. I have the rotor, reluctor and No 1 on the cap lined up pretty well. Tried phasing the rotor +/- 5-10* but can't quiet get it right.

Anybody have any tips or any experience doing timing with the Fitech?

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The one thing you have to do is sync the dist to the ECU. Set your base timing value in the handheld, then bring rpm up to 2000 rpm and adjust dist so timing light and Spark Advance on handheld Dashboard screen match, tighten dist.

It doesn't matter what the value on dashboard screen is for Spark Advance is, just move the dist so the balancer mark matches
 
larryc94 said:
The one thing you have to do is sync the dist to the ECU. Set your base timing value in the handheld, then bring rpm up to 2000 rpm and adjust dist so timing light and Spark Advance on handheld Dashboard screen match, tighten dist.

It doesn't matter what the value on dashboard screen is for Spark Advance is, just move the dist so the balancer mark matches
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Thanks for the info.
Timing actually seemed very close when I checked with my dial-back light. Above idle the handheld was around 29-30* and that lined up with my balancer mark and timing light. Maybe I'm really close, but it seems way off.
 
subcom said:
Thanks for the info.
Timing actually seemed very close when I checked with my dial-back light. Above idle the handheld was around 29-30* and that lined up with my balancer mark and timing light. Maybe I'm really close, but it seems way off.
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Are you using a MSD box, I am and cant use a dial back light, it's off by a couple of degrees. Have to use fixed light.

Also just to ask you have the advance locked?

The beauty of timing control is once sync'd you cant put your light away. Just use handheld for any timing changes

Larry
 
larryc94 said:
Are you using a MSD box, I am and cant use a dial back light, it's off by a couple of degrees. Have to use fixed light.

Also just to ask you have the advance locked?

The beauty of timing control is once sync'd you cant put your light away. Just use handheld for any timing changes

Larry
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Funny. I was just reading about the timing light issue on MSD dual spark digital boxes. Luckily not using one. I bought the pro billet locked distro. No weights, advances or anything. Can't weight till I can put the light away! Thanks again!
 
Figured it out! I had the rotor advanced to the wrong plug tower. Small wonder it sounded so advanced!

I started over but this time setting everything from the No. 6 plug cause I have timing tape on that side of the balancer. Lined everything up 15* BTDC, set the adjustable rotor clockwise 15* and plugged in the base timing in the handheld. BOOM! Fired right up. At idle with my dialback the timing is right on the money. Above idle the dialback light def won't work. Jumps all over the place.

I still should phase in the rotor with a hole in the cap but as it stands the motor feels really responsive off idle.
 
Took the car out last night to log some mild "spirited" acceleration. I left all of the timing curve right at the Fitech defaults which drops timing under boost to about 28*. Logs indicated that it was right on the money as boost began to build, and it held it there. I'm impressed. The distro from Johnny Pace is an awesome piece and appears to play really well with the Fitech. It's a totally new engine. Starts right up, the off idle bog is gone and I can even drive this thing when it's still cold.

Oh, and it boils the tires from a 40mph roll in 3rd gear when I ease into boost. Can't wait to get back to the track!
 
subcom said:
Took the car out last night to log some mild "spirited" acceleration. I left all of the timing curve right at the Fitech defaults which drops timing under boost to about 28*. Logs indicated that it was right on the money as boost began to build, and it held it there. I'm impressed. The distro from Johnny Pace is an awesome piece and appears to play really well with the Fitech. It's a totally new engine. Starts right up, the off idle bog is gone and I can even drive this thing when it's still cold.

Oh, and it boils the tires from a 40mph roll in 3rd gear when I ease into boost. Can't wait to get back to the track!
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Very glad to hear this! Appreciate the kind words!
 
So just want to post some dyno results after we fiddled with the tuning on a simple "290 horse" sbc. These engines with a carb BARELY make their advertised hp with a carb. After messing with all the settings in the handheld and finally being happy with it. We squeezed 328 hp out of that "290 hp,350sbc. I really surprised myself as these typically arent big horsepower gainers...its more for the other numerous efi advantages. Anyways, dont be afraid to do some tuning outside of the self learn. We were very shocked at the hp gains.
 
I drove my "decoy" 318 with the new Go EFI 4 600 yesterday. Seems to be doing real good. Cranks good and I am sure after the learning process I am going to be pleased.
 
Well, I am hoping to take mine out for a short rip this weekend.. Nothing special, except, we are inundated with snow, and sitting about -12 celcius during the day.. Long as I can get it out to a dry highway, it should be a hoot . Sure glad it's efi now! ( and that I have a block heater)

Anyone else in Winnipeg want to go for a cruise ?? Ill post a picture of the snow in the parking lot so you believe me haha.

Happy New Year!!
 
My fitech dual quad system on my small block crossram has been running excellent too, all except for cold starts, but I think that is a issue with the intake puddling fuel until it gets some heat in the intake...
 
I am having an issue with cold starts. The actual starting is fine but the idle creeps down into the 500's and usually stalls out. And if you keep it running after a min or so it seems to be ok with the correct idle range.Warm starts and hot starts the idle is right where it needs to be. Any suggestions? Speak slowly, most of this efi terminology is foreign to me
Thanks for any help
 
Well, That was fun.. probably surprised a few people seeing an older car out in the winter. Took a little trip on the highway. working great..really smooth since I re adjusted the valvetrain.. all the way up to .... well, more than is allowed by the limit signs. Smoothest it has ever run actually.. Should have checked the valvetrain earlier lol.
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mike heasley said:
I am having an issue with cold starts. The actual starting is fine but the idle creeps down into the 500's and usually stalls out. And if you keep it running after a min or so it seems to be ok with the correct idle range.Warm starts and hot starts the idle is right where it needs to be. Any suggestions? Speak slowly, most of this efi terminology is foreign to me
Thanks for any help
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I would change the "warm up" fuel at the lower temp settings. What does the AFR do as it starts to stall out? Mine needed more fuel, especially since I live where it's cold in winter.

Ken
 
Another cold weather test this morning ( had to move the car off the lot for snow clearing) Block heater plugged in, outside temperature minus 21 celcius. Turned on system, then off, then back on. fired right up and kept running with no problems.. Let it warm up to about 170 before driving it to work. Too slippery on the roads to play around, but ran smooth as usual. Took it home at lunch, no traction on the roads to speak of. (sideways is quite fun) System runs fine in these cold temperatures. Now if only I had a "new car" heating system to go with it .:)
 
ken5124 said:
Another cold weather test this morning ( had to move the car off the lot for snow clearing) Block heater plugged in, outside temperature minus 21 celcius. Turned on system, then off, then back on. fired right up and kept running with no problems.. Let it warm up to about 170 before driving it to work. Too slippery on the roads to play around, but ran smooth as usual. Took it home at lunch, no traction on the roads to speak of. (sideways is quite fun) System runs fine in these cold temperatures. Now if only I had a "new car" heating system to go with it .:)
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Wow that's pretty cool knowing it runs that well in the cold.

I don't even think about driving mine in this weather. Here in Chicago it was a high of 10 degf but no snow left on the ground. I don't want salt kicking up on the underside. In spring I wait until we have a couple torrential downpours to wash the salt off the street before I hit the roads again!
 
mario03srt said:
All,

I'm working on a mounting plate/bracket to go on the fender and then place the FiTech on it. Maybe place some rubber grommets too to prevent any vibe or road bumps etc from monkeying with the FCC.

Marion
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Here is what I came up with, pretty simple but a bit of an improvement.
Now where is my damn engine? All of my PRW SS Rockers needing a lot of clearancing to fit on RHS/Indy head valve retainers!


FCC Bracket Plate.JPG
FCC Bracket on Fender 2.JPG
FCC Assy on Fender.JPG
 
ken5124 said:
I would change the "warm up" fuel at the lower temp settings. What does the AFR do as it starts to stall out? Mine needed more fuel, especially since I live where it's cold in winter.

Ken
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fantastic, finally cold enough again to replicate the previous idle and "cold driving" issues.
7 degrees F today. richened up the warm up fuel on 20 and 65 degree. no more stalls or bogging down in drive. Now if the salt and deicer crap can disappear I can take it for more than a cold tune test drive.
 
mike heasley said:
fantastic, finally cold enough again to replicate the previous idle and "cold driving" issues.
7 degrees F today. richened up the warm up fuel on 20 and 65 degree. no more stalls or bogging down in drive. Now if the salt and deicer crap can disappear I can take it for more than a cold tune test drive.
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Glad that worked.. I guess I am fortunate ??.. once it gets real cold, the roads dry up and only on those days can I get the car out in winter. No reason to go out in any wet, salty or slushy road conditions.
 
does anyone know if you could have this on a new engine for cam break in? Would it be ok just shooting right up to 2200 for 1/2 hr or so? Or does it need some base idling at the start to learn? Thanks
 
berry-cuda said:
does anyone know if you could have this on a new engine for cam break in? Would it be ok just shooting right up to 2200 for 1/2 hr or so? Or does it need some base idling at the start to learn? Thanks
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Berry-Cuda,

I have the same concern. I have a new engine and ignition plus the FiTech going in at the same time. I am nervous about this. I will be using Comp's Break In Oil for a flat tappet and the builder will slather up the cam. I'm worried about a high rpm condition of several aborted starts.

Marion
 
mario03srt said:
Berry-Cuda,

I have the same concern. I have a new engine and ignition plus the FiTech going in at the same time. I am nervous about this. I will be using Comp's Break In Oil for a flat tappet and the builder will slather up the cam. I'm worried about a high rpm condition of several aborted starts.

Marion
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we dyno brand new, never ran, engines on the dyno constantly with these...if it's hooked up right...she should fire/run just fine.

Fuel, air, and spark...got all three of those and it's no different than using a carb.
 
I'm thinking about getting the Fitech 600 or 800 hp version for my 408. 408 was dynoed at 523 hp. It runs on 91 octane. I have an MSD ready to run Distributor. I'm getting a little tired of the carb and had problems autocrossing with it this weekend. Sure, I could fix the carb, but I like fuel injection just in general.

Anyway, I have a couple of questions. I am currently running a stock tank, to an electric pump, to a pressure regulator feeding the carb. My question is, should I get the fuel command center and run a returnless setup from the regulated fuel pressure? Or should I remove the pressure regulator and create a return line to the tank? Is there an easy way of doing so with the stock tank?

Is there anything I should be worried about?
 
Johnny Pace said:
Both the command center, and a pump will require a line back to the tank. The FCC just uses a "vent" opposed to the constant return of the inline pump.

It'd be very easy to just swap out your current regulator, and inline pump, and just run the return type external pump. Unless you want to get into something as extravagant as an aeromotive drop in sump or tank.

Using the fcc with an existing electric pump seems double redundant to me...

very easy to just pop a bulkhead fitting in for a return.

FTH-40005 - FiTech Fuel Injection Inline Frame Mount Fuel Delivery Kit - Master Fuel Kit

Aeromotive - AEI - AEI18688 - Phantom Stealth Fuel System

Aeromotive - AEI - AEI18688 - Phantom Stealth Fuel System
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I agree on the double redundancy. It doesn't seem right, but when the shop built my car with the carb on it, for whatever reason the pulley system they used couldn't accommodate a mechanical pump. I'm currently running a Holley Blue pump. I'm trying to keep the work, cost, and parts used/removed/replaced down to a minimum. Based off of their instruction manuals, it seems to make a little more sense to go from tank, to electric pump, to throttle body, and back to tank since I already have 90% of they system in place.

So, Fitech's frame mount fuel delivery kit could be used as a return line? Do I need a pump for the return line? Where on the tank would I return it to.

Sorry for any ignorance. Carbs and fuel injection are still a little new to me, but reading the instructions, EFI doesn't seem too hard and will get my car to how I'd want it to be.

This is the photo I'm referring to on their instruction manual:

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