Found my dads original 1971 duster!

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missing linc said:
That's the name of the prick that is responsible for this mess?
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Yep. I’m done not saying it. It’s not slander if it’s the truth. I almost want to give out his email address too. I tried posting a warning on Kijiji, but they instantly removed the ad. I didn’t mention names. Just said “if you’re having a car built in Saskatchewan, contact me”. He sits on his phone alll day on kijiji, so he likely reported my ad instantly and they removed it

I have plenty of proof from people in the car business of all the things he fucked up in my car. He needs to be stopped
 
Have you pulled your thermostat, make sure its not in backwards? Put it in boiling water make sure it opens?

I would drill at least one 1/8 hole in thermostat to insure no air lock exists. I have three 1/8 inch holes in mine

North of 200 degrees F and would not be comfortable with that on my car. Over heating can cause heads to warp and a host of other issues you don't need. My two cents.
 
340sFastback said:
Have you pulled your thermostat, make sure its not in backwards? Put it in boiling water make sure it opens?

I would drill at least one 1/8 hole in thermostat to insure no air lock exists. I have three 1/8 inch holes in mine

North of 200 degrees F and would not be comfortable with that on my car. Over heating can cause heads to warp and a host of other issues you don't need. My two cents.
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No, I haven’t pulled it. Maybe I’ll do that tomorrrow. I’m assuming it’s in correctly, because the engine builder installed it, as the water pump was on the engine when I picked it up. Before taking it out to the idiot. But you never know. I bought 160 and 180 degree thermostats
I don’t like seeing those temps either. Waiting to hear from engine builder on what temps I should be seeing, with it being so new
 
dads71 said:
Ya. My plan is to go visit Noel (friend with 71 duster), after I verify that my temps are stable and ok…so I can drive my car to his place and do some comparison measurements etc

Thanks. It definitely sucks. I hate that the guy has 3 or 4 more cars at his shop and that he’s doing the same thing to other people. I am definitely going to try to do something legally against him. Even if it’s just to try to stop him from building cars.

Ohhh….and if you’re looking for someone to build you a car….Brian Trask…Filmore Saskatchewan
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Is this him?
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So I’ve just swapped thermostats. I was hoping something was wrong there, but no luck. It already had a 160 degree thermostat that was in the proper way-with a vent hole (first and 2nd pics) tested it and the one that I put in to replace it. Both function properly. 3rd pic is new one I put in. I drilled a hole in it, as instructed

I guess next step is making a spring out of a coat hanger for the bottom rad hose. Then test for temps

I forgot to fill the block before I put new thermostat in and tightened it down and put hose back on. Is that ok? Rad will fill it once I start the car? I only drained the rad from the drain spigot on bottom, so I’m assuming it will be fine. Thanks

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No need to fill block. Start it up with cap off. Get the air out and see what your level is. Fill if needed in the radiator
 
With holes drilled in my thermostat I am able to completely top off coolant without starting the engine.
 
Ok guys. Here’s the scoop after installing new thermostat and the lower rad hose spring. I let car idle in driveway for 35 min and monitored temps. Air breather wasn’t on. Not sure if that matters. I read temp at hottest spot- beside thermostat on engine

After 10 min- 186
After 20 min- 207
After 25 min- 215
After 30 min- 223
After 35 min- 224

I’ve attached pics to reference gauge at those temps. I didn’t want to go farther. But I did notice that at times when I was reading temp between intervals, it would sometimes actually be a bit lower. The lower and upper rad hose read a fairly consistent 10 degrees different from eachother. I believe at the 20 min mark the lower was 163 and upper was 173. Keep in mind that I have no shroud on yet and it’s 24 degrees here right now. What are your thoughts, guys?

I should also mention that the engine builder said he doesn’t like temps over 210 or so. But said without me having a proper gauge in the coolant, it’s hard to know. He also told me that I’m measuring the temp at the hottest point (where hottest coolant leaves the engine). I did notice that most of the time if I took temp close to the temp sensor location, it would read 10 degrees or so cooler

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Also at no point during the 35- 40 min that the car was running, did it boil over or hiss at the cap. I left cap off for first 5 min or so, to add coolant while it was running. I’ll check level again once the car cools off. So in 6 hours or so. lol
 
Just my 2 cents here, but I think you need some consistency in your temp measurements, you are measuring at different places, and reading from a laser thermometer and a dash gauge, either which may or may not be accurate. If this was me, I would put a new temp sending unit into the factory location and wire that to a good Autometer temp gauge and go from there, that way you have a consistent reading every single time you look at the gauge. I cant imagine trying to diagnose a problem without having consistent data.
 
If the air fuel ratio is lean its gonna run hot. So that should be looked into too....
 
70SwingerGuy said:
Just my 2 cents here, but I think you need some consistency in your temp measurements, you are measuring at different places, and reading from a laser thermometer and a dash gauge, either which may or may not be accurate. If this was me, I would put a new temp sending unit into the factory location and wire that to a good Autometer temp gauge and go from there, that way you have a consistent reading every single time you look at the gauge. I cant imagine trying to diagnose a problem without having consistent data.
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Hey. Thanks for the message. I measured all temps at the exact same spot every time, every 5 minutes. I only added the pictures and information of the factory temp gauge so that I could show where its needle was at while the readings on the engine were taken. Just did the best I could do, with what I have

I agree. I wish I had a screw in gauge to replace the temp probe in the engine for now. I’m having a hard time finding one with a short enough probe portion and proper threads. It’s hard when I’m not sure what I’m after too
 
340sFastback said:
If the air fuel ratio is lean it’s gonna run hot. So that should be looked into too....
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Ya. Again, I’ll have to find someone who knows how to adjust that. I have no idea on that stuff. The car starts up amazing when it’s cold. You’d almost think that it was fuel injected. Once car is driven 10 min or more, it sometimes needs a bit of pedal to get it started back up. Not sure if that is normal or exactly what it means. But just to give more info
 
dads71 said:
Hey. Thanks for the message. I measured all temps at the exact same spot every time, every 5 minutes. I only added the pictures and information of the factory temp gauge so that I could show where its needle was at while the readings on the engine were taken. Just did the best I could do, with what I have

I agree. I wish I had a screw in gauge to replace the temp probe in the engine for now. I’m having a hard time finding one with a short enough probe portion and proper threads. It’s hard when I’m not sure what I’m after too
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Oh hey, dont get me wrong, I wasnt criticizing! You are doing a terrific job of dealing with this colossal undertaking. All I was doing is offering a suggestion as to what would give you the most reliable temp readings to make diagnosing easier for you. Maybe I missed the part about not being able to find a sending unit, why is that giving you grief, is there something different about your intake manifold? My Autometer came with a sending unit that threaded right in, no fuss at all.
 
70SwingerGuy said:
Oh hey, dont get me wrong, I wasnt criticizing! You are doing a terrific job of dealing with this colossal undertaking. All I was doing is offering a suggestion as to what would give you the most reliable temp readings to make diagnosing easier for you. Maybe I missed the part about not being able to find a sending unit, why is that giving you grief, is there something different about your intake manifold? My Autometer came with a sending unit that threaded right in, no fuss at all.
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No, I appreciate all the help on here! I’m looking online for the temp gauges and they look to have a long probe. But I just checked Canadian tire and they have this one and it says that different fittings are available. Is this what I’d need? It doesn’t show the part that threads into the engine. Although I could take the spare t17 temp sensing unit that I have to try to make something up to make it work??

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70SwingerGuy said:
Oh hey, dont get me wrong, I wasnt criticizing! You are doing a terrific job of dealing with this colossal undertaking. All I was doing is offering a suggestion as to what would give you the most reliable temp readings to make diagnosing easier for you. Maybe I missed the part about not being able to find a sending unit, why is that giving you grief, is there something different about your intake manifold? My Autometer came with a sending unit that threaded right in, no fuss at all.
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I’m wanting to put a proper gauge in it. I’m worried that this whole time my temp gun might be reading wrong or reading metal that’s hotter than the coolant. I dunno. I can understand needing a shroud when idling or in slow traffic, but it seems to get too hot even today, on a 20 minute drive, where air is being forced through the rad at 50-60 mph (I have no traffic where I live)

Next step is me thinking the rad is fucked. I’ve now tried everything else
 
I wouldnt run that gauge, you dont get enough of a detailed read of the temperature in the lower (<200) range. This is what I currently run, it works fantastic, is easy to install, and comes with different adapter fittings for the sending unit Autometer Temp Gauge Autometers arent cheap, but you get what you pay for, and when you are monitoring vital engine stats, you want accurate and reliable gauges. Of course all this is assuming that you have no problem with mounting a non factory gauge in your car. That link is to the Autometer US site, so its USD, but you can find it on Amazon.ca without too much problem. You would also need the black "cup" holder or a single mounting panel need to mount the gauge to a solid surface, as shown Here
And you are correct to wonder if your temp gun is accurate, or if you are reading wrong temps, all this is part of figuring out what is going on. And thats why I think you need to get a consistent gauge reading from a reliable sending unit. Solve one problem and move onto the next. Even if you put a good gauge in, and your temps are still higher than normal, at least you have eliminated one potential point of error and you can focus on something else.
 
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70SwingerGuy said:
I wouldnt run that gauge, you dont get enough of a detailed read of the temperature in the lower (<200) range. This is what I currently run, it works fantastic, is easy to install, and comes with different adapter fittings for the sending unit Autometer Temp Gauge Autometers arent cheap, but you get what you pay for, and when you are monitoring vital engine stats, you want accurate and reliable gauges. Of course all this is assuming that you have no problem with mounting a non factory gauge in your car. That link is to the Autometer US site, so its USD, but you can find it on Amazon.ca without too much problem. You would also need the black "cup" holder or a single mounting panel need to mount the gauge to a solid surface, as shown Here
And you are correct to wonder if your temp gun is accurate, or if you are reading wrong temps, all this is part of figuring out what is going on. And thats why I think you need to get a consistent gauge reading from a reliable sending unit. Solve one problem and move onto the next. Even if you put a good gauge in, and your temps are still higher than normal, at least you have eliminated one potential point of error and you can focus on something else.
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Ok thanks for the info. Can you just thread it directly into engine? To check while under the hood? I’d like to keep my factory gauges inside. But use one like you sent to monitor things and make sure everything is working properly before I drive the car around
 
You can check your IR gun with a pot of water on the stove.......212* F (100*C) starts to boil.
 
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