Found my dads original 1971 duster!

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If trans is over filled it will puke fluid out the vent in converter housing. So check fluid level.when hot make sure not over filled.
 
340sFastback said:
If trans is over filled it will puke fluid out the vent in converter housing. So check fluid level.when hot make sure not over filled.
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Hmm. Thanks for that info. Come to think of it, despite it slowly leaking onto the floor after my short drives, the level is still almost to the top of the high mark on dipstick. I check it after it’s warmed up for a few minutes….in neutral. Man, wouldn’t that be nice, if I actually had no issue. Fingers crossed!

Also, I read online a week or so ago that I should check dipstick o ring and now it’s being said again. I originally thought that meant the actual dipstick, but does that mean where the actual dipstick tube goes into the transmission?
 
Yes. Where it goes in. If you pull out the tube you will have fluid everywhere. Just an fyi. There probably isn’t a drain plug on your tranny pan. I would recommend taking it to someone with a lift and get a good look.
 
One of the trans to engine bolts has to come out then trans dip stick tube can be wiggled out. But have drain pan under there cause fluids gonna come pouring out.

I always ran my 727 auto a tad on low side to keep fluid from spitting out vent. If its over filled its gonna spit fluid out and look like a leak.
 
moparker said:
Yes. Where it goes in. If you pull out the tube you will have fluid everywhere. Just an fyi. There probably isn’t a drain plug on your tranny pan. I would recommend taking it to someone with a lift and get a good look.
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Yes, agreed. I need to get it on a lift for a better look. Thanks
 
340sFastback said:
One of the trans to engine bolts has to come out then trans dip stick tube can be wiggled out. But have drain pan under there cause fluids gonna come pouring out.

I always ran my 727 auto a tad on low side to keep fluid from spitting out vent. If its over filled its gonna spit fluid out and look like a leak.
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Awesome info on here! I’ll monitor things for a bit longer and see how it goes. Thanks!
 
Hey guys. I haven’t posted in a bit, as I needed to take a bit of a break from the car, to clear my head.

I had a friend loan me a new rad to try in my car, as we compared my car to his 71 duster and it looks like my brackets that solder onto the side of the rad are in the wrong spot….causing my rad to be too far back….not allowing my original clutch fan to fit. I plan on trying it this week

I put the glass locking strips and stainless trims on the front and back glass today. They don’t fit perfectly, but I’m told that the new glass and gaskets never fit exact same as original stuff. They are good enough to suit the car at this point

I also put the wiper arms on….but after turning them on to try them, it appears that the motor may be mounted wrong. When I turn wiper switch on, the wipers try to go down instead of upwards. Lol. Plus now I can’t get them back off! I’ve googled how to get them off, but I can’t get them to budge. Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated

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Place a towel at the base of the wiper on the cowl. Get a small piece of wood and a small pry bar or a screwdriver. flat head. Pry up with one hand and hold on to the wiper with the other. It should start to come up off the pedestal. Install. with wipers off the car. Turn the wipers on then turn them off. When they are in the off position they are down. Install wiper.
 
Someone said earlier that too much timing will make it run hot. That's incorrect. Not enough timing makes one run hotter. Where is your initial timing? If it's too low, you start the burn late and it's still burning coming out of the engine and produces more heat.
 
moparker said:
Place a towel at the base of the wiper on the cowl. Get a small piece of wood and a small pry bar or a screwdriver. flat head. Pry up with one hand and hold on to the wiper with the other. It should start to come up off the pedestal. Install. with wipers off the car. Turn the wipers on then turn them off. When they are in the off position they are down. Install wiper.
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Thanks for the reply! I tried that already. But I’ll give it another go. Was just scared of possibly denting the cowl area, if prying too hard. I’m using a towel and a block
 
RustyRatRod said:
Someone said earlier that too much timing will make it run hot. That's incorrect. Not enough timing makes one run hotter. Where is your initial timing? If it's too low, you start the burn late and it's still burning coming out of the engine and produces more heat.
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Hey. Thanks! I had a friend check the timing and it’s 4 degrees and 27 degrees. Does that make sense? I know zero about what timing is. Thanks Also, I finally found hose that goes from canister on rocker cover to the breather. Since installing it, it’s really hard to start once it’s warmed up (like if I stop for gas then go to re start). Not sure if the hose could affect anything, or it’s just coincidence
 
dads71 said:
Hey. Thanks! I had a friend check the timing and it’s 4 degrees and 27 degrees. Does that make sense? I know zero about what timing is. Thanks Also, I finally found hose that goes from canister on rocker cover to the breather. Since installing it, it’s really hard to start once it’s warmed up (like if I stop for gas then go to re start). Not sure if the hose could affect anything, or it’s just coincidence
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That could be your whole entire problem! You need to pull that timing up to around 16-18 idle timing instead of 4. 4 is ridiculous.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Someone said earlier that too much timing will make it run hot. That's incorrect. Not enough timing makes one run hotter. Where is your initial timing? If it's too low, you start the burn late and it's still burning coming out of the engine and produces more heat.
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That might have been me, I know I made a comment about timing.

RustyRatRod said:
That could be your whole entire problem! You need to pull that timing up to around 16-18 idle timing instead of 4. 4 is ridiculous.
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Wasn't the factory spec 8 BTDC? I run 16 so not arguing with your suggestion.
 
DionR said:
That might have been me, I know I made a comment about timing.



Wasn't the factory spec 8 BTDC? I run 16 so not arguing with your suggestion.
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I'm unsure, but I am certain it wasn't 4. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
That could be your whole entire problem! You need to pull that timing up to around 16-18 idle timing instead of 4. 4 is ridiculous.
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Oh really? I’ll double check. I’m sure that’s what he said. Dos it matter than it has a cam and has added hp? I think it’s around 390 hp
 
dads71 said:
Ok. Thanks. So if I find someone to do it, I should tell them to set it to 16?
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Short answer....no. Every engine is different and timing needs to be set according to each engines parameters, you shouldnt just take 16 as a number and set it there. Anyone who is experienced with tuning engines should be able to time it for you as part of a complete tune-up. Chances are that it may end up around the 16ish mark though :)
 
dads71 said:
Ok. Thanks. So if I find someone to do it, I should tell them to set it to 16?
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Yes. Try that and see. Then, go buy your own timing light. We'll walk you through how to use it, It's easy and you need one.
 
70SwingerGuy said:
Short answer....no. Every engine is different and timing needs to be set according to each engines parameters, you shouldnt just take 16 as a number and set it there. Anyone who is experienced with tuning engines should be able to time it for you as part of a complete tune-up. Chances are that it may end up around the 16ish mark though :)
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All correct sir. But for testing purposes, he needs to find out. Plus it needs more than 4 degrees.
 
RustyRatRod said:
All correct sir. But for testing purposes, he needs to find out. Plus it needs more than 4 degrees.
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I agree, it definitely needs more than 4 degrees. What I was suggesting, was rather than getting a base setting of 16 before firing it up, since its already a running engine, to get someone who knows what they are doing and just get in there with a light and time it properly. Or do you think that setting an initial timing would be a better way to go, kind of like starting from scratch?
 
70SwingerGuy said:
I agree, it definitely needs more than 4 degrees. What I was suggesting, was rather than getting a base setting of 16 before firing it up, since its already a running engine, to get someone who knows what they are doing and just get in there with a light and time it properly. Or do you think that setting an initial timing would be a better way to go, kind of like starting from scratch?
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Well, he needs to try something. I just threw out a recommendation.
 
Thanks everyone. The guy who checked and set it is very knowledgeable. He used to build cars at national moparts. I do recall him saying that we may advance it later once I’d put some miles on the car. I’ll see what he says. I appreciate everyone’s input
 
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