Odd shifter problem, need advice

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I think these were all asked and answered up-thread, but since you asked ...

jbc426 said:
What are you running for trans lube?
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Brad Penn 90w
jbc426 said:
Are you lining up the shifter with a drill bit on the underside opposite the shift handle?
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I used a piece of round stock to lock the shifter in neutral

It's not a matter of speed shifting. With the current adjustment it grinds only going into first when rolling.

I haven't tried any of the suggestions yet because I'm undergoing a medical thing. I was hoping someone would just say make the shift rod a turn longer (or shorter) but apparently it's not that simple.
 
Uncle Bob said:
I was hoping someone would just say make the shift rod a turn longer (or shorter) but apparently it's not that simple.
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You can certainly try that. The issue of the shifter gate not lining up comes into play when you go too far.
Try to lengthen it one, possibly two, revolutions off center and see if the shifter will allow it.
Shouldn't have to do with clutch release though.
 
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Dan Brewer said:
Honestly, I haven't figured it out clearly yet. Most of the "core" pedal assemblies I buy, do not come with specifics as to what engine/trans/model year combo they came out of originally.
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Well I can tell you that my Feb SBD '69 340 cuda is 6''
 
Is that picture on page one the set up that we are discussing here? Looks like a Competition Plus Hurst. I see one shift lever stop bolt in the rear and none in the front. That may your problem, not that the front bolt is missing, but that the one that's in the rear is not adjusted correctly. Just a thought.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
Is that picture on page one the set up that we are discussing here? Looks like a Competition Plus Hurst. I see one shift lever stop bolt in the rear and none in the front. That may your problem, not that the front bolt is missing, but that the one that's in the rear is not adjusted correctly. Just a thought.
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The photo of the engine/trans sitting on the k-frame/trans jack from post #10 is the setup.
 
I have always found that 90w is too thick. We run 80-90 in my son's 18-spline. It has some wear on second that if the shifter is adjusted "properly" it pops out of gear. One turn longer on every rod keeps it in every gear.
 
The video did not show you how to adjust the lever/handle stops. Is the front stop bolt missing like your picture shows? I think they are a 3/8" fine thread, I may be wrong, check. Those 2 bolts are stops, so that when you hit a shift hard, the bolts are the stop, not the synchronizer. If a bolt stop was in too far, it would stop the synchronizer from completely engaging the gear. Loosen the lock nut on the bolt and back the bolt out. If your linkage is adjusted correctly, put the trans into 2nd gear and hold the lever/handle back in 2nd. Now screw the bolt in until you feel it hit the lever/handle, then tighten the lock nut. Do the same for 3rd gear position. I am not out in the garage, and it's been awhile since I have done this. I don't remember if the front bolt is for 3rd or second, or visa versa. Experiment. Or I can look at mine later when I go out to the garage. Make sense?
 
CRUZE 418 said:
The video did not show you how to adjust the lever/handle stops. Is the front stop bolt missing like your picture shows? I think they are a 3/8" fine thread, I may be wrong, check. Those 2 bolts are stops, so that when you hit a shift hard, the bolts are the stop, not the synchronizer. If a bolt stop was in too far, it would stop the synchronizer from completely engaging the gear. Loosen the lock nut on the bolt and back the bolt out. If your linkage is adjusted correctly, put the trans into 2nd gear and hold the lever/handle back in 2nd. Now screw the bolt in until you feel it hit the lever/handle, then tighten the lock nut. Do the same for 3rd gear position. I am not out in the garage, and it's been awhile since I have done this. I don't remember if the front bolt is for 3rd or second, or visa versa. Experiment. Or I can look at mine later when I go out to the garage. Make sense?
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The stop bolts are only on the aftermarket shifters. Factory shifters did not have them.
 
@CRUZE 418 Yes it does look like there is a missing bolt on the front side

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Jim Lusk said:
The stop bolts are only on the aftermarket shifters. Factory shifters did not have them.
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This one has a stop bolt on one side and not on the other although there is a hole for it - see above.

Is there a reliable way to tell if this is factory or aftermarket?
 
Uncle Bob said:
This one has a stop bolt on one side and not on the other although there is a hole for it - see above.

Is there a reliable way to tell if this is factory or aftermarket?
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From the Holley website

"Assuming we have a free neutral gate and the alignment pin can be easily slipped into place, we can now perform the last two adjustments. Hurst shifters come with travel stops on the front and back side of the main shifter body. The rear adjustment bolt is for First and Third gears which is the one we will adjust first."



"Loosen the lock nut on the adjustment bolt and back the bolt out by several threads. Shift the transmission into Third gear and thread the adjustment bolt in until the bolt contacts the shifter arm. Then loosen the stop bolt one full turn and tighten the lock nut. Now perform the same procedure with the Second and Fourth gear stop located on the forward side of the shifter body by placing the shifter in Fourth gear."
 
I would say that the shifter is an over the counter purchase. Someone will correct me here, but I do not remember ever seeing a Competition Plus shifter like you have from the factory in a Mopar. Do not remember seeing a bolt in shifter/handle either. I always thought that the shifter handle was a bayonet. So many people wanted the square handle lever over the round one, shifters got changed alot. The Competition Plus was built for abuse, the stops, changeable lever options and bushings for the shifter rods.
Hurst was only in Mopars for a few years, if it looks like a Hurst, but doesn't say it, my opinion, it's isn't a Hurst. Again, I may stand corrected on this!
 
CRUZE 418 said:
I would say that the shifter is an over the counter purchase. Someone will correct me here, but I do not remember ever seeing a Competition Plus shifter like you have from the factory in a Mopar. Do not remember seeing a bolt in shifter/handle either. I always thought that the shifter handle was a bayonet. So many people wanted the square handle lever over the round one, shifters got changed alot. The Competition Plus was built for abuse, the stops, changeable lever options and bushings for the shifter rods.
Hurst was only in Mopars for a few years, if it looks like a Hurst, but doesn't say it, my opinion, it's isn't a Hurst. Again, I may stand corrected on this!
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If I recall, '69 and '70 only are bayonet style. I know that they (Hurst) sells conversion kits to make them bolt in style like '71 etc.
 
A56 said:
And I never could understand why.
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It kind of makes sense - the factory would want fewer parts so the fit wouldn't require bushings, but for the aftermarket Hurst would want one universal part to fit their rods. From Brewer's site: Shifter fingers have the larger .500″ diameter holes for Hurst aftermarket linkage.

CRUZE 418 said:
I would say that the shifter is an over the counter purchase. Someone will correct me here, but I do not remember ever seeing a Competition Plus shifter like you have from the factory in a Mopar. Do not remember seeing a bolt in shifter/handle either. I always thought that the shifter handle was a bayonet. So many people wanted the square handle lever over the round one, shifters got changed alot. The Competition Plus was built for abuse, the stops, changeable lever options and bushings for the shifter rods.
Hurst was only in Mopars for a few years, if it looks like a Hurst, but doesn't say it, my opinion, it's isn't a Hurst. Again, I may stand corrected on this!
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This one could even be made from various factory/non-factory parts.

I'm tempted to just buy a new shifter. :BangHead:
 
Uncle Bob said:
It kind of makes sense - the factory would want fewer parts so the fit wouldn't require bushings, but for the aftermarket Hurst would want one universal part to fit their rods. From Brewer's site: Shifter fingers have the larger .500″ diameter holes for Hurst aftermarket linkage.


This one could even be made from various factory/non-factory parts.

I'm tempted to just buy a new shifter. :BangHead:
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This guy is amazing:
 
Not sure why they would have you back out the stop bolt one full turn after contact, it's a stop bolt. Having said that, they didn't tell you to hold the shifter in like I would, that may account for the discrepancy. Either way should work for you.
Good Luck!
 
CRUZE 418 said:
Not sure why they would have you back out the stop bolt one full turn after contact, it's a stop bolt. Having said that, they didn't tell you to hold the shifter in like I would, that may account for the discrepancy. Either way should work for you.
Good Luck!
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It's a buffer distance I suppose. One turn isn't that much.
 
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