Will GM 200r4 work with factory floor shift location?

-
One more thing. Does anyone out there know if the console shift model of the 69 Barracuda came with a different trans tunnel (hump). Different from the column shift or 4 speed?? My tunnel ('69 Cuda) looks different from "Mopartoya's" tunnel but it's really hard to tell by the pics he posted. Mine looks like it has a definite bulge in the tunnel where the torque rod comes down (just below the shifter boot). Anyone??

Treblig
 
Just got out from under the car. I took one of the 1/8" X 3 curved plates and put it in place with the "fake" rod end under the car (1st pic). You have to know what you're looking for when you try and see the metal plate in the first pic. If you look at some of my previous posts you can see the metal plates pretty easy.
Once I could see how they were oriented I removed them and cut and bent the plate, I also made the shank of the "fake" rod end narrower so I could put it in the small hole I made in the plate at the location it needs to be under the car. I reinstalled the two pieces and they seem to fit fairly well considering they don't belong there (second pic).
After I get the metal plate bent and shaped exactly like I want it I'll weld gussets and braces to it to make it rigid. Once the metal plate is installed and welded to the upper trans brace (cross member, see previous pics) it should be very rigid. But to make sure it doesn't move when I'm shifting gears I also plan to attach a long piece of 1/8" X 1" flat stock to one of the Driver's side lower trans cross member bolts. I'll bend and shape it so that it lays against the tunnel wall that way it won't interfere with anything. This will give the rod end "lateral" support to prevent flexing. There will be no vertical load on the rod end...only horizontal load. I guess I could easily brace the 1/8" metal plate to the body but I'm trying to cut on the body as little as possible. This car is so nice and original I hate to cut it up too much. In fact, if there was any way to get the 200R4 in there without cutting at all I would find a way. But it ain't gonna happen without a little surgery!!

PS- It's really amazing how easily I can put those 1/8" metal plates between the body and the upper support. It's pure luck that Mopar only spot welded the upper support at the top of the tunnel and on the lower horizontal part of the trans support/torsion bar brace. Leaving a nice gap for the 1/8" plate!!

Treblig
 

Attachments

  • DSC01728.JPG
    120 KB · Views: 492
  • DSC01741.JPG
    122.3 KB · Views: 476
  • DSC01740.JPG
    110.6 KB · Views: 474
  • DSC01737.JPG
    123.5 KB · Views: 554
  • DSC01738.JPG
    120.9 KB · Views: 488
If mine has the gap it is completly closed with what was probably dealer undercoating. Any progress?
 
I'm sure yours has a gap. Maybe it's just full of junk. I'm sure they put all the bodies in '69 together the same way, but of course you never know. You have yours stripped down don't you??

As far as the 200R4...I've just been real busy helping a friend finish his '40 Ford hot rod. I get back to it as soon as I can.


I would post a pic of the '40 but I'm not sure if it would be cool???
Treblig
 
Finally ordered the TCI 200R4 adapter. Should be in next week. They had one in stock.

Treblig
 
your doing a good job of fabricating BUT a chevy trans in a mopar!!! ??? you'd have to prove it to me there better.sorry for raning on your parade just thinking out lowd...........Artie
 
Believe me I don't want to put a Chevy tranny in my Cuda. I also didn't want to put the Chevy 10 posi with 12 bolt axles in the car either. But the 10 bolt was free and it fit perfect, Heavy Duty A-body Mopar rear ends in my town are rare and very expensive. I got the 10 X 15 Chevy slotted wheels for free also (check 'em out). We have 10 bolts falling from the sky around here!!! I have a Chevelle 12 bolt (paid $150) sitting in my garage right now and there's another under my son's car ('46 Chevy).
Besides, the 200R4 requires much less cutting on the body (cross member). I'd rather use a Chevy tranny than cut my Cuda into pieces. It's a beautiful survivor with ZERO rust. But I do understand why someone wouldn't do it.
So the choices are: butcher the Cuda or use a Chevy tranny for overdrive. I can always put it back to the way it was.
I won't be the first or the last...thanks for the rain, I appreciate anyone reading the thread in case they have some good ideas.

TCI adapter...$481.99 SUMMIT, free shipping and handling (they will ship immediately).

Treblig in Tex.
 

Attachments

  • DSC01623.JPG
    119.4 KB · Views: 466
  • DSC01625.JPG
    108 KB · Views: 467
  • DSC01628.JPG
    114.8 KB · Views: 461
Believe me I don't want to put a Chevy tranny in my Cuda. I also didn't want to put the Chevy 10 posi with 12 bolt axles in the car either. But the 10 bolt was free and it fit perfect, Heavy Duty A-body Mopar rear ends in my town are rare and very expensive. I got the 10 X 15 Chevy slotted wheels for free also (check 'em out). We have 10 bolts falling from the sky around here!!! I have a Chevelle 12 bolt (paid $150) sitting in my garage right now and there's another under my son's car ('46 Chevy).
Besides, the 200R4 requires much less cutting on the body (cross member). I'd rather use a Chevy tranny than cut my Cuda into pieces. It's a beautiful survivor with ZERO rust. But I do understand why someone wouldn't do it.
So the choices are: butcher the Cuda or use a Chevy tranny for overdrive. I can always put it back to the way it was.
I won't be the first or the last...thanks for the rain, I appreciate anyone reading the thread in case they have some good ideas.

TCI adapter...$481.99 SUMMIT, free shipping and handling (they will ship immediately).

Treblig in Tex.
first I can understand your thinking but isn't an overdrive unit about the same price as the adapter?and if memory serves me I think the 727 will go in without any cutting?not sure of the overdrive unit I'm sure the boys at summit could tell you the dimensions of it and if it will work then you would have a bulletproof running gear In my opinion and you know about that.ya there like *** Os ..I also know that a lot of show car guys run them and lord knows they wouldn't think of doing any cutting on them:violent1:haha,..,and as far as your wheels I love em they look like the cragar mag masters I have been looking for I have two that are 12 inches wide and would like to get the front ones to go with them.or if I can find a hole set to put on my 66 vert.and Ill stop the rain I hate wen I do that:banghead:
 
Godfather,

An overdrive (gear vendor brand) cost close to 3 grand when it's all said and done. I can do my swap for $481 (adapter) + $800 for a nice 200R4 + free labor. I don't need a high stall converter because I'm building a torque monster street crusier 5800 RPM and below. If you read any of my previous posts I can run a 4:10 gear and cruise at 70 MPH at 2560 RPM. I should be able to come out of the hole like a scalded dog with the super low first gear and 4:10s!!!! Top end is around 180MPH so if somebody take me in the 1/8 mile or the 1/4 I'll get them in the end!!
The 727 isn't an overdrive, in fact I just sold a small block 727 last week. Everything I've read here and elsewhere says that any other overdrive trans (Mopar or other) would require much more cutting and would also cost more than a 200R4. Chevy stuff is so cheap (dollar wise).

I'm looking for a set of 12" wide Chevy slotted wheels (my 10" wide wheels are too wimpy... LOL).

thanks for the input!! Oh...Very Nice Looking Car!!!

Treblig
 
The a5 something or another Mopar od tranny is supposed to fit with a minor crossmember mod. I'll try and dig up the thread I saw today and post the link here for you. Whether it ends up helping or taking up space, I don't know. I'm gonna try though
 
MoparDaddy,

I'm sure anything you might find will be greatly appreciated by everyone here at FABO. From what I have seen the Mopar OD trannys all have very fat tail shaft areas. Or at least the area of the tranny that goes right around the A-body trans mount area. I'm pretty locked into the 200R4 and I've already ordered the adapter but that shouldn't stop you from getting info that others that might be able to use. Many, many members would love to have better cruising capabilities without the high RPMs. Not to mention the BONUS low, tire burning first gear.
The 200R4 is also very fat near the back half of the trans body but it's also very short (as far as trannys go). This is why it requires very little surgery. The fact that the TCI adapter is only 1/4" thick also helps by not pushing the 200R4 very far towards the rear of the tunnel. Some of the other adapters are thicker moving the tranny further towards the rear and requiring more cutting. I have a 904 and a 200R4 sitting right next to each other in my garage (you can see pics in previous posts in this thread). The 200R4 is actually 3 inches shorter than the 904. Chevy BAD...Chevy 200R4 GOOD!!
I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir since many of the members have been doing this much longer than I have. I hope I've done enough research???

Treblig
 

Attachments

  • DSC01634.JPG
    125.2 KB · Views: 547
  • DSC01633.JPG
    121.6 KB · Views: 445
  • DSC01635.JPG
    121.1 KB · Views: 481
Well the TCI adapter finally made it to my house:eek:ccasion::eek:ccasion:. It looks pretty nice and I should have some pics up this afternoon.
We had a cold front come into town so it's FRIGGIN FREEZING outside this morning. It went all the way down to 47 degrees so I'll wait until later this afternoon for it to warm up so I can go out and get some good pics of the adapter and the parts that come with it. Then I can start mocking things up.

They had the TCI adapter in stock and it only took a few days to get here!!
I also just bought an RPM airgap for the 318 stroker (as recommended by FABO members).

Treblig
 
Godfather,

An overdrive (gear vendor brand) cost close to 3 grand when it's all said and done. I can do my swap for $481 (adapter) + $800 for a nice 200R4 + free labor. I don't need a high stall converter because I'm building a torque monster street crusier 5800 RPM and below. If you read any of my previous posts I can run a 4:10 gear and cruise at 70 MPH at 2560 RPM. I should be able to come out of the hole like a scalded dog with the super low first gear and 4:10s!!!! Top end is around 180MPH so if somebody take me in the 1/8 mile or the 1/4 I'll get them in the end!!
The 727 isn't an overdrive, in fact I just sold a small block 727 last week. Everything I've read here and elsewhere says that any other overdrive trans (Mopar or other) would require much more cutting and would also cost more than a 200R4. Chevy stuff is so cheap (dollar wise).

I'm looking for a set of 12" wide Chevy slotted wheels (my 10" wide wheels are too wimpy... LOL).

thanks for the input!! Oh...Very Nice Looking Car!!!

Treblig

I just bought and am installing a gear vendor overdrive , the overdrive in the 200r4 sounds amazing , if you can run 4:10 gears and have a 180mph top end , that's about the top end on mine with 3:55 gears and the G V overdrive , with 4:10 gears my car would have a top end of 160 mph @ 6500 rpm , that's some overdrive in the 200r4 . Just can't get over the Chevy name . :)
 
That's OK MoparDaddy. Now that the adapter has arrived I can start Christmas early (cutting the adapter down to size)!!

Jerry6, I know, I know it's a Chevy trans:violent1:. But you can't beat the price and I can always put it back the way it was. Besides if Mopar had made a OD trans that fit without all the cutting I would have used it (if it didn't cost an arm and a leg). I love Mopars I just hate spending more than I need to and I hate (even more) cutting on my 'Cuda!!!!!
You ought to show pics and prices of your GV install so everyone can see and decide on their own which route to take.

TCI adapter pics coming very soon.....

Trebing in Tex
 
Ok, here are the adapter pics. Tried the adapter on the 200R4 trans but the studs (splined, pressed) would not go into the tranny holes. After some close examination I found that two of the studs were pressed in crooked. I had to take a large flat punch and a good sized hammer and hit them on the backside (they have a flat round head countersunk on the engine side of adapter). You can easily see that the flat head of the stud is not parallel to the face of the adapter. So I just hit each crooked stud on the part of the head that was higher until it straightened the stud. Once they were perpendicular to the adapter face they all slid right into the trans.
I would recommend not hitting the studs any more than necessary since they are pressed into aluminum and can eventually get loose if you move them around too much.

More pics as I progress.......

Treblig
 

Attachments

  • DSC01773.JPG
    121.4 KB · Views: 562
  • DSC01774.JPG
    130.8 KB · Views: 519
  • DSC01776.JPG
    93.6 KB · Views: 523
  • DSC01775.JPG
    89.2 KB · Views: 502
Not to hijack, but where are you getting a "nice" 200r4 for 800 bucks? For them to live under any sort of power, you usually have to spring 1600-2k for a good trans.
 
Magnumdust,

If you've read all of the posts on this thread you'll find that I'm not building a race car or a drag car. I'm building a daily driver that has enough torque to have a good launch with nice highway manners (low RPM at 75 MPH). I don't ever plan on taking it to the drag strip. The 200R4 I have along with two 700R4s I've had for a while. 200R4 trannys that need overhaul go for about $100/$150 around here. I have a friend who overhauls Chevy trannys and he told me he could fix/overhaul mine for $350.00 labor. I told him I wanted some upgrades (probably buy the upgrade kit) like servos, front pump, etc. Since I'm not trying to build a "bullet proof" transmission I don't need to go all out on the super duty upgrades. You are right about one thing...It will probably end up costing me $900-$950. But that is still way below the GV $2800 price tag. I'll use a stock converter because I'll have so much torque with 4.10 gears and the OD low 1st gear I won't need a high stall (don't want one anyway).
If I was going to the drag strip and pushing the engine and tranny to the max I would need a high dollar trans. They sell these on ebay..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200968121062?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Good for 400HP (with luck I'll get 400 horses). They also come with a lot of good components AND FREE SHIPPING.
But I'll probably have my friend built it so that way if I have a problem I can always take it back to him. I'll be using this car to take my little girl to school every morning so it has to have good manners, power when I want it and drivability. Not sure if it can be done the way I imagine it but I'm going to try.

Even a $1500 tranny and the $481 adapter is still way cheaper than the GV!!


If I blow-up the tranny I'll come back and say you were RIGHT!!!

Treblig
 
Will you post pics after you start bolting the parts together? I've never had the opportunity to see how tranny adapters work. Aside from the aluminum plate. That part explains itself lol
I'm guessing the red plate is a flexplate/flywheel spacer? Please forgive my ignorance of the subject
 
Next minor problem..

One of the bolt heads makes contact with tranny housing. Had to mark and cut (die grinder and carbide burr) a small semi-circle out of the tranny housing to get the adapter to mate flush with the tranny.
More to come....

Treblig
 

Attachments

  • DSC01777.JPG
    121.4 KB · Views: 515
  • DSC01778.JPG
    114.9 KB · Views: 500
  • DSC01780.JPG
    95 KB · Views: 508
  • DSC01779.JPG
    108.4 KB · Views: 490
  • DSC01782.JPG
    90.5 KB · Views: 515
  • DSC01783.JPG
    98.1 KB · Views: 505
  • DSC01786.JPG
    87 KB · Views: 498
Magnumdust,

If you've read all of the posts on this thread you'll find that I'm not building a race car or a drag car. I'm building a daily driver that has enough torque to have a good launch with nice highway manners (low RPM at 75 MPH). I don't ever plan on taking it to the drag strip. The 200R4 I have along with two 700R4s I've had for a while. 200R4 trannys that need overhaul go for about $100/$150 around here. I have a friend who overhauls Chevy trannys and he told me he could fix/overhaul mine for $350.00 labor. I told him I wanted some upgrades (probably buy the upgrade kit) like servos, front pump, etc. Since I'm not trying to build a "bullet proof" transmission I don't need to go all out on the super duty upgrades. You are right about one thing...It will probably end up costing me $900-$950. But that is still way below the GV $2800 price tag. I'll use a stock converter because I'll have so much torque with 4.10 gears and the OD low 1st gear I won't need a high stall (don't want one anyway).
If I was going to the drag strip and pushing the engine and tranny to the max I would need a high dollar trans. They sell these on ebay..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200968121062?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Good for 400HP (with luck I'll get 400 horses). They also come with a lot of good components AND FREE SHIPPING.
But I'll probably have my friend built it so that way if I have a problem I can always take it back to him. I'll be using this car to take my little girl to school every morning so it has to have good manners, power when I want it and drivability. Not sure if it can be done the way I imagine it but I'm going to try.

Even a $1500 tranny and the $481 adapter is still way cheaper than the GV!!


If I blow-up the tranny I'll come back and say you were RIGHT!!!

Treblig

Hopefully you didn't take my post as being offensive. I was really just wondering because i need overdrive in my street/strip car(300ish hp now, 400+ when i eventually spray it) and i had hoped you knew something i didn't. 1500 + adapter is cheaper, but i still cringe at spending that kind of change.

just an fyi, that ebay business has a somewhat sketchy reputation
http://www.z28.com/threads/mad-dog-transmission.102749/

The owner has been referred to as "leaky lou" and has changed the name of his shop several times.
 
Magnumdust, No offense taken (AT ALL). I thought you were trying to help like everyone who has posted here. As you probably figured, I'm not rich. I have money for my car but I still try my best to save where I can without making big mistakes. I got some great advise from one of the members to use a cast crank (Scat). I was planning on buying a forged crank but with the HP I'll be making and the step-up I'll have (street only, no high RPM) there's no need for a forged crank. That freed up about $300 so I do appreciate any help I can get. Many folks at this site are building race cars or at least cars that will see the drag strip. More power to them!! I would love to do that but it isn't practical for me. I went to the summer nationals once and couldn't believe how my chest vibrated when the funny cars launched. So...I love the drag strip but not for this car.
Thanks for the info on "leaky lou", I was just showing you that you can build a decent street tranny if you're not going HOG WILD!! LOL!!

No offense taken brother!!!

Treblig
 
MoparDaddy, "Will you post pics after you start bolting the parts together? I've never had the opportunity to see how tranny adapters work. Aside from the aluminum plate. That part explains itself lol
I'm guessing the red plate is a flexplate/flywheel spacer? Please forgive my ignorance of the subject
".

I will do my best to post as many pics as possible as I continue. That's the only way I can pay all you guys back for helping me with all my minor (and sometimes major) problems.

Yes the red round plate is the flexplate/flywheel spacer. You're only ignorant if you DON'T ask. Or at least you won't be as "informed"!!LOL As you can see the adapter plate is way too big. Probably made that way on purpose for mid-mount engines (I guess). I'll have to mount the plate to the 200R4 and use a magic marker to draw a line around the perimeter of the housing then leave an extra 3/4" or more for strength. Measure twice (or three times) and cut once!!
Looks like I'm going to have to cut some on the 200R4 to make clearance for the Mopar starter also. We'll see tomorrow.....


Treblig
 
-
Back
Top