Will GM 200r4 work with factory floor shift location?

[Treblig]

Thanks Sickandwrongcustoms!!

After the last eight posts with no questions or comments/suggestions I was beginning to think that no one was even reading what I was writing. But it didn't stop me from trying. You give me hope!!!!LOL
Today I should receive the TV cable carb adapter/bracket and as it turns out all GM TV cables are not created equal. After doing some reading I found that GM made numerous lengths. I was setting up my TV cable bracket based on the one in my son's car but the one I'm putting in the Cuda is probably not the same length. The wire length inside the sheath isn't always the same either. That's why I haven't posted in a few days. Once I get the carb TV adapter (should arrive today) put it on the carb and hook it up to the 200R4 I'll know exactly where to put the TV cable bracket on the intake.
Thanks again for letting me know that there's someone out there reading about my crazy, detailed efforts.

Treblig in Tex

 

[Treblig]

OK, I finally received the carb TV cable bracket for my 750 Holly. I connected one end of the TV cable to my 200R4 and the other end to the carb. Then I adjusted the accel/TV cable bracket so that I had plenty of adjustment on the TV cable (See Pics). I'll get some pics of the connection at the trans tomorrow. Anyway, the way you adjust the TV cable for proper shifting is to put the carb at WOT and make sure the TV cable is fully extended when connected. So you simply hook-up the TV cable to the carb and move the TV cable bracket (the one on the right, orange color), so that the wire is as tight as a guitar string. The wire will actually sound like a tight guitar string when it is properly adjusted at WOT. Note that the TV cable is centered vertically and horizontally with the carb attach point.
I have two pics, one with the carb at idle and the second with the carb at WOT and the TV cable tight. The small bracket is in the last pic, it simply bolt onto holes that already exist on the Holley. You can see the bracket installed on the carb with the TV cable attached to it. Now that I have the TV cable where it needs to be I can adjust the accelerator part of the bracket to match the distance on my Cuda. Since I will be using the stock accelerator cable that's on my Cuda I should have only very minor adjustments when I install the 200R4.
Once I get both the accel and TV cable brackets in the proper place I can cut, weld, grind, smooth and paint before installation.


Treblig

 

[jerry6]

looking good . Keep the posts going

 

[Treblig]

Thanks Jerry6,

I will a post a pic later today showing the hook-up between the TV cable and the 200R4. I always had some apprehension about it coming loose once you bolt it down but now I know it just about impossible. As you will see later.

Treblig

 

[Treblig]

Here are the pics of how the 200R4 TV cable connects to the tranny. First pic is of the wire link being pulled out of the tranny. This wire link is what tells the tranny when to shift based on input from the carb lever. The 90 degree bend in the wire basically slips into a hole in the end of the TV cable. The second pic shows the end of the TV cable where you'll find the small piece of metal with a hole in it. Also in the pics you will notice (sitting on the tranny next to the wire link) a round hard rubber bushing/gasket. I had an extra one so I thought I would show what it was because I was confused initially on why the TV cable end (the plastic part) was so much smaller than the hole in the tranny. If you look closely you see one already installed in the tranny. This gasket seals the TV cable hole so that you don't get any leaks. It fits in there pretty tight and it's best to install the gasket in the tranny using a little trans fluid then lube the TV cable housing and gently push and wobble it in a circle to get it to go in. Then install the metric 10 MM bolt.
Now you can pull the wire link out enough to hook it into the end of the TV cable as shown in pic 3. Now if you pull the link out as far as you can you will be simulating what happens when you "floor" the gas pedal. When you adjust the TV cable at the carb and get the stranded wire as tight as a guitar string you're telling the tranny that it needs to down shift as you go to full acceleration.
Now that you got your cable hooked-up you need to carefully lower the TV housing down over the link. You must make sure that the link stays fully inserted into the hole that's in the TV cable as you lower it. The wire link and the hole in the end of the TV cable will both slide into the TV cable housing as pics 4 & 5 show. Once the wire link is inside the housing it can't back out of the hole. Failure to ensure that the link stays hooked-up as you lower the housing over the link could damage (probably will) the 200R4 if you attempt to drive it with the cable unhooked.
You keep lowering the housing into the gasket using a wobbling motion until it's completely inserted then you screw the bolt in. Don't over torque the bolt or you might break the plastic housing (I seen more than one housing cracked and leaking because someone torqued it down too much).

Hope this helps someone out there. Next I need to start butchering the 200R4. The Mopar starter doesn't fit into the tranny bell without a little cutting/grinding/trimming. They say you can eat an elephant one bite at a time!!! So far it's been delicious, a little tough but delicious>>>LOL!!

treblig

 

[Treblig]

Well that last piece of elephant wasn't so bad. I installed the TCI adapter on the trans then bolted up the Mopar starter. The starter does make contact inside the trans bell but not as bad as I thought. I've never done this before so I thought I'd have to do a lot of cutting but TCI made it easy. In the pics you can see where the starter makes contact, a lot on the nose piece and just a little on the 1/2 bell part behind the nose piece.
All it took was a magic marker and a large, coarse rat tail file. It took 10 minutes tops. SEE PICS:blob:

Now I have to figure out how to check the ring to starter gear clearance. Anyone out there know what the specs are on the clearance for the starter gear???


Treblig

 

[magnumdust]

wow you're using the massive starter. You know it probably would've fit without any clearance issues if you used a magnum style starter

 

[Treblig]

Magnumdust,

You know what they say...Always plan for the worst!! I figured if I can get this giant one to clear then anytime in the future if I replace the starter any starter should fit (at least that's the plan). I would hate to have any clearance issues later when my starter goes out and I need to replace it quickly. Since it will be a daily driver I have to be able to get a new starter at the auto parts fast. You know how rebuilt starters can be or even the new ones...not always exact duplicates of each other. I'm not a Mopar expert, when you say Magnum starter what exactly do you mean??? I would imagine off a newer Magnum engine but which one and what years?? Will the wiring be different?? Has to have the correct starter gear and throw. Thanks in advance

Treblig

 

[magnumdust]

Magnumdust,

You know what they say...Always plan for the worst!! I figured if I can get this giant one to clear then anytime in the future if I replace the starter any starter should fit (at least that's the plan). I would hate to have any clearance issues later when my starter goes out and I need to replace it quickly. Since it will be a daily driver I have to be able to get a new starter at the auto parts fast. You know how rebuilt starters can be or even the new ones...not always exact duplicates of each other. I'm not a Mopar expert, when you say Magnum starter what exactly do you mean??? I would imagine off a newer Magnum engine but which one and what years?? Will the wiring be different?? Has to have the correct starter gear and throw. Thanks in advance

Treblig

Pretty much any starter from a 3.7/5.2/5.9 magnum. They bolt right in place, weigh half as much and work a lot better. I have one in my car that i yanked from a truck at pick and pull. I paid 20 bucks for it and its been on the car for a couple years now with lots of cranking time.(killed 3 batteries with the rewire and efi setup before i got it squared away.)

for reference:

 

[Treblig]

Thanks Magnumdust,

I looked on ebay and found some of these for $59-$79 remanufactured with free shipping. That beats going out in the cold and wet Pick and Pull this time of year!!
I also did some research last night on torque converters. Since I have a 200r4 I can't use my Cuda converter. But I found that the '87 Grand National comes stock with a 1800 stall torque converter (needs to have "D5" stamped on it). I'm not building a drag strip car so that should work just fine without too much cost. Also everything I've read says that the more power/torque you make the more stall you get out of any converter, so maybe I'll get 2000 stall. Either way it's fine with me. I'm looking for killer torque with a lot of power and minimal wheel spin anyway.

Next I get a torque converter and mock up the TCI adapter with tranny and check for starter gear clearance.

Does anyone out there know how much clearance I need???

Treblig

 

[Treblig]

This is what you look for on the Grand National TC. They say you can get above 2200 stall if you have a healthy engine??

Treblig

 

[Treblig]

Ran into a big problem to today. Tried to mock up the starter with TCI flexplate installed on engine. The flexplate is clearly marked "WARNING, this side must be toward engine". So I followed the "warning" and installed as required. But I guess I was in a hurry because I couldn't get the bolt holes to line up. So, just to make sure, I tried installing the crank adapter plate. You can't put it on backwards because it has countersunk screws/bolts so the countersinks must go to the outside. Now remember, Summit/TCI had sent me the wrong crank adapter twice before I finally got the correct one. After checking and double checking everything I found that the crank adapter did fit properly but the flexplate had the holes drilled with the wrong pattern. I was getting pissed all over again...one step forward two steps back.
I went online and looked up the TCI Mopar small block GM flexplate at Summit. The one they showed was one that was shaped like a maltese cross or surfer's cross with no starter gear ring. I was really confused so I called Summit to complain again. I explained that the flexplate had the correct part number on it and so did the box it came in but the picture at the Summit site showed a completely different flexplate. I also explained that I had been sent the wrong parts twice before. The lady couldn't make heads or tails of the problem so she asked me to call back tomorrow for a conference call with Summit...I agreed.
I went back outside and, just for fun, laid the crank adapter over the flexplate holes and it lined up. I felt like a fool. So then I put the flexplate on the crank and NOTHING lined up!!! Am I going CRAZY!!!!:banghead:

Then I had an idea, I rotated the flexplate the WRONG way and guess what??????????????? It fit.:blob: But why I asked myself. After close examination I found that TCI had cut a chamfer on the ID of the flexplate on one side (opposite the side that's supposed to be toward the engine SEE PIC # 5.

Then I looked at the crank and saw that the flexplate would have to have a chamfer so as not to hit on the inside shoulder of the crank. As you can see in pic number 4, it clearly has the warning. The side with the warning does NOT have the chamfer. With all that said I can only guess that TCI put the warning sticker on the wrong side of the flexplate. I know that putting a flexplate on backwards can cause many big problems so I was being very careful to put it on right. I'm still calling Summit tomorrow but I'm going to tell them where they screwed up. The chamfered side has to go against the crank and that's the only way the holes will line up because of the weird pattern on the crank.
After I got all that figured out I put everything on the back of the engine and installed the starter. You can see the pics with the starter gear pulled out engaging the flexplate gear teeth. I was able to get a .045 drill bit between the top of a starter gear tooth and the root of flexplate teeth. I also plan to call TCI just to make sure I am correct about the chamfer and the warning sticker.

Just by coincidence in the second pic you can see the sticker on the flexplate, this sticker should be on the opposite side of the flexplate.


Not sure what happened but the order in which I uploaded the pics came out wrong but I'm sure everyone can figure it out.

Treblig

 

[transman]

This is what you look for on the Grand National TC. They say you can get above 2200 stall if you have a healthy engine??

Treblig

If the converter you will be using is a factory core, there will be a paper decal on it. On this decal is a code consisting of letters and numbers. This is how a GM lockup converter is properly identified, any other markings mean nothing. The code may say something like HB1, HZAD, CG3C or others. If you can get me that code, I can tell you what the factory rated stall was for the unit you have. GM used a 12" converter with the codes CB4C, CB5C, CF9C on their turbo units, and Corvettes(and all were lock-up style converters). Stall speed (factory rating) was rated on this unit 1800-2000 rpm. As I recall, there was NO particular converter that was used only in the GN.
With more torque, you will get a higher stall. You should keep in mind that GM'S were in those years low on horsepower and torque, and there was nothing heavy duty about the converters used in the TH200-4R or the 700-R4. Pretty basic units, with no brazing done the impeller(hub side), or the turbine. If you're looking at some good horsepower and torque out of your engine, I'd consider looking into a heavy duty converter from one of the aftermarket suppliers. Are you going to retain the lockup function of the transmission/converter?

 

[Treblig]

Transman,


WOW!! Great information. Everything I've read tells me that the Turbo Grand National used a 1800-2000 stall converter recognized by the D5. But you know what they say about information found on the internet. I would rather listen to someone who knows transmissions in the real world.
I've been looking at prices hadn't decided on lock-up or nonlock-up. I had a 700R4 built with a nonlock-up converter and I modified the valve body myself and had the trans guy put in a plug in the front shaft (I believe) and many other upgrades. That transmission worked great.
Not sure if I should do the same with this 2004R. Thanks for you input/suggestions. I really don't know how much the nonlock-up will effect my cruising RPM. If I remember correctly isn't it something like 10-15 percent that you lose??? Also I really didn't want to spend money and time putting in the LOCK-UP switches then having to mess with them as I drive. If it doesn't hurt my cruising RPM too much then I'll probably go with the nonlock-up. I had done a lot of reading (bought a few books on 700R4) on the 700R4 before I had it rebuild and the one thing that grabbed me was the fact that when the trans goes into lock-up mode fluid pressure is taken from the system leaving less pressure to keep 4th gear fully engaged. 4th gear is usually the thing that goes out first in a 700R4, once it starts to slip (because of a lack of pressure and load) it starts to wear, puts trash in the system and tears up the rest of the trans.
Now don't beat me up too bad here, I don't claim to be a trans expert. But the books I read convinced me to use a nonlock-up converter on my 700R4 (years ago). The question is, " Does the 2004R have the same weakness?", if it does then I'll go with the nonlock-up converter. Of course I'll be using the HD front pump so that should help with the pressure.

SCHOOL ME TRANSMAN!!!

Treblig

 

[Treblig]

Just got off the phone with TCI. I told them what happened with the "warning" sticker and the chamfer on the ID , they told me that I was correct about them putting the sticker on the wrong side of the flexplate. I asked him about the .045 starter gear clearance and he said it would be fine. He also said that they had sent a few flexplates out with the sticker on the wrong side. I guess there's really nothing that can go wrong (on a 318 crank) because if you get the flexplate on backwards (chamfer away from the engine) it won't bolt up anyway (live and learn). So why did they put the "warning" on there in the first place?? If they hadn't put the warning on there I would have rotated the flexplate just to see if it would go on either way. But because of the sticker I didn't even try rotating it for fear of messing something up.:violent1:

Treblig

 

[transman]

Transman,


WOW!! Great information. Everything I've read tells me that the Turbo Grand National used a 1800-2000 stall converter recognized by the D5. But you know what they say about information found on the internet. I would rather listen to someone who knows transmissions in the real world.
I've been looking at prices hadn't decided on lock-up or nonlock-up. I had a 700R4 built with a nonlock-up converter and I modified the valve body myself and had the trans guy put in a plug in the front shaft (I believe) and many other upgrades. That transmission worked great.
Not sure if I should do the same with this 2004R. Thanks for you input/suggestions. I really don't know how much the nonlock-up will effect my cruising RPM. If I remember correctly isn't it something like 10-15 percent that you lose??? Also I really didn't want to spend money and time putting in the LOCK-UP switches then having to mess with them as I drive. If it doesn't hurt my cruising RPM too much then I'll probably go with the nonlock-up. I had done a lot of reading (bought a few books on 700R4) on the 700R4 before I had it rebuild and the one thing that grabbed me was the fact that when the trans goes into lock-up mode fluid pressure is taken from the system leaving less pressure to keep 4th gear fully engaged. 4th gear is usually the thing that goes out first in a 700R4, once it starts to slip (because of a lack of pressure and load) it starts to wear, puts trash in the system and tears up the rest of the trans.
Now don't beat me up too bad here, I don't claim to be a trans expert. But the books I read convinced me to use a nonlock-up converter on my 700R4 (years ago). The question is, " Does the 2004R have the same weakness?", if it does then I'll go with the nonlock-up converter. Of course I'll be using the HD front pump so that should help with the pressure.

SCHOOL ME TRANSMAN!!!

Treblig

OK Treblig, lets see if I can be of some help to you.
The lockup or lack of lockup will not effect your cruising RPM. The transmission is what give you the 15% drop in engine speed when it goes into overdrive, not the converter. All the lockup was designed to do was to make the converter more effiecent with the addition of the lockup piston/cluch. It was installed to lower the slippage all converters have.

If you're not going to go with the lockup, make sure you order your converter as what we used to call a dummy lockup. The converter had the lockup piston removed. The big weakness in the early 700R4 was the input shaft. The early 27 spline was problematic. When they changed the shaft to a 30 spline unit the problem seemed to go away. The 2004R has always had the 27 spline input shaft and because they were never put into any HP vehicles, they seemed to be trouble free. By the way, we built high stalls as small as 10" and retained the lockup.

I see that you've mentioned a HD pump. Don't get caught up to much with this. Some will tell you that the 13 vane pump is a HD/HP unit. This is open up to a lot of discussion. What I've been told by very knowledgeable people in the industry, and have heard in person, the reason for the increase from 7 to 10 and then to 13 vanes in the pump was to lower the whining noise these pumps created. One very smart builder told me that without increasing the overall size of the pump rotor area, there is no way to get more volume or pressure out of that pump. Again this is open to debate. There are items you can get for the pump for HP use. Your local parts supplier will have these items listed from companies like transgo, superior and sonnax. There are other items for this transmission available to make it a heavier duty unit. Think everything out carefully and you should comeout with a good unit. I know there are some HARD CORE race parts out there that will make that 2004R live behind a lot of horsepower, but at what cost.

Good on you for getting the ATRA manuals, make sure you get one for the 2004R.

I don't want to give you the idea that I'm a builder, as I'm not. I worked in the transmission parts and converter industry for almost 30 years,and did pickup some good pointers from some darn good builders.

The thing to keep in mind, is GM put this series (TH200 & TH2004R) in low horsepower/torque vehicles. Only the turbo V6'S had much in the line of HP, and were low on the torque curve. I know that the Grand National boys have got their cars to run in the 9's using the 2004R, but the transmission they are using is far far from stock. Read lots of $$.

Hope I've been of some help, and if I can help you again, either post here or send me a PM.

Merry Christmas to you and yours.

 

[Treblig]

Transman,

Thank you for all the useful information. Now that I know that the non-lock-up will NOt effect my cruising speed I will go with it. The reason I mentioned the Grand National is because I figured that if I'm not building a race car or drag strip car I could just buy a stock converter. Sure I will hit the gas a little hard off the line every now and then (mostly to show off my Cuda's muscles) but I'll probably NEVER stomp it to the floor off the line. Attached you will find a pic showing the "code tags" on GM converters. GM built converters with a wide range of stalls for different cars. If I buy a stock converter I will go with a tag code "CE, CF, CL, or CC". After more research I might end up getting an aftermarket HD for less than $200. Everyone who reads this must remember that I'm building a street cruiser with lots of torque, 390 with 4:10 gears. NO drag racing, no high stall. I'm not shooting for low 9s or low 10s or low 11s,,,maybe high 12s:headbang:.

You gotta build what you like and I like cruising at low RPM with the ability to punch it and take off.
If the non-lock-up doesn't hurt cruising RPM then that will keep me from fooling with all the switches to control the lock-up. I've done it before and it worked great!! Less hassle and less worries.

thanks again,
Treblig

 

[sdcarsey]

I've built quite a few of the 700r4 & 200-4r. For your application, I'd suggest a boost valve to help up the pressure and a good set of servos. They don't cost a lot and are good insurance the trans will survive. The ones I've used has ranged from fresh builds with all race internals to just pulling one out of a used car and installing the boost valve and servos. That combo will allow a little more room for error with adjusting the TV cable too.

I'm out of town right now but can send part #'s I use when I get home if you like.

I've never not used the lock-up function though, I'm curious to how it works for you.

Cool set-up, good work!

 

[Treblig]

sdcarsey, you said, "I'd suggest a boost valve to help up the pressure and a good set of servos. They don't cost a lot and are good insurance the trans will survive. The ones I've used has ranged from fresh builds with all race internals to just pulling one out of a used car and installing the boost valve and servos. That combo will allow a little more room for error with adjusting the TV cable too."



Good info, I am definitely not a transmission expert. But I'm damn good at research. But just because a site tells you to replace this part or that part doesn't really tell what I need for the trans that I'm building. Sounds like you're not telling me to go whole hog and replace everything with super heavy duty stuff. You're just telling me the important things I need to make "MY BUILD". That's exactly what I want. Now the questions.....

Do I need:
pressure regulator valve
hardened stator support
10 vane pump (I think this is a no brainer)
hardened pump rings (these go with the pump)
2nd gear Kevlar band
Bearing (sun gear to internal gear)
Bearing thrust rear carrier for lo/reverse roller clutch
plate (lo/reverse clutch waved) plate (direct clutch backing 4.50mm)
9 friction plates in the lo/reverse clutch pack
ETC, ETC...

My point is, I'm not building a race/drag car. Just a cruiser with attitude so what things in the tranny are really important to upgrade. I don't mind spending a little money to ensure that the tranny last a good while. This car will never see the drag strip!! But it might see a Mustang (in the rear view mirror!!!!).

As for the non-lock-up

Treblig

 

[transman]

sdcarsey, you said, "I'd suggest a boost valve to help up the pressure and a good set of servos. They don't cost a lot and are good insurance the trans will survive. The ones I've used has ranged from fresh builds with all race internals to just pulling one out of a used car and installing the boost valve and servos. That combo will allow a little more room for error with adjusting the TV cable too."



Good info, I am definitely not a transmission expert. But I'm damn good at research. But just because a site tells you to replace this part or that part doesn't really tell what I need for the trans that I'm building. Sounds like you're not telling me to go whole hog and replace everything with super heavy duty stuff. You're just telling me the important things I need to make "MY BUILD". That's exactly what I want. Now the questions.....

Do I need:
pressure regulator valve yes
hardened stator support if available for the 2004R yes
10 vane pump (I think this is a no brainer) yes
hardened pump rings (these go with the pump) yes
2nd gear Kevlar band go for it
Bearing (sun gear to internal gear)
Bearing thrust rear carrier for lo/reverse roller clutch
plate (lo/reverse clutch waved) plate (direct clutch backing 4.50mm)
9 friction plates in the lo/reverse clutch pack( get a kit with kolene steels and Alto red friction plates for the transmission.
ETC, ETC...

My point is, I'm not building a race/drag car. Just a cruiser with attitude so what things in the tranny are really important to upgrade. I don't mind spending a little money to ensure that the tranny last a good while. This car will never see the drag strip!! But it might see a Mustang (in the rear view mirror!!!!).

As for the non-lock-up

Treblig

In answer to your Do I need question: Also get:
Shift kit
all bushings and bearings (make sure pump bushing is teflon coated <same as 700R4),
Both the Low roller clutch assembly and the Overdrive Roller clutch assembly.
Replace the electrical switches (except the lockup solenoid, as you're making the transmission non-lockup.
The Superior super servo might be a good idea.
Give it a complete rebuild, and add the HP/HD parts you think it might need.

On the converter, seeing as you've got a torquey engine, get a furnace brazed converter. Brazing just makes them stronger.

Don't forget, the GM converter will have a 1.703" pilot to fit in the crankshaft (of a GM engine) while the Mopar Crank hole will measure 1.810", and the converter pilot MUST fit in the crank, other wise there is no support on the front of the converter. Not a good thing. Your converter supplier will have to build you a special converter with the Mopar sized crank pilot. Not a big issue for any quality converter rebuilder.

Have fun.

 

[Treblig]

I'm make'n a list and check'n it twice....LOL ..for my 2004R.

No worries about the converter pilot. The TCI crank adapter has a snug slip fit ID that basically adapts the 2004R converter to the Mopar crank. But I do appreciate that you're thinking ahead to avoid problems that might bite me in the differential!!!

Treblig

 

[Treblig]

sdcarsey, I would really appreciate any part numbers you can give me. There's so much stuff out there it's hard for a non-transmission guy to know what to get without spending and arm and a leg!!

treblig

 

[Treblig]

For those who might be interested here is an example of the stock 2004R converter codes. The converter that came with my 2004R had the code sticker on it as you can see in the pics. If I'm reading the GM 4 digit code chart correctly the converter is a "C" = Early 700R4/2004R 27 spline series B15, stall range "G" = 1200-1400, typical clutch type and damper, looks like it's interchangeable with C, D, F & G codes.

If you can get lucky and get a Grand National trans the code's first two digits should be "CC" or "CF" which would give you a factory high stall of 2000 or more depending on the torque of your engine. Now I realize this is a Mopar web site so keep in mind that this tranny is going to be installed in a '69 Barracuda. I'm not using a Mopar overdrive because I would have to cut out a lot more metal and I want to keep the body as original as possible, including keeping the original console and shifter.

Treblig

 

[Treblig]

Christmas came early!!!! I've was so unsure about what to do with the speedometer cable. I knew that there was no way a Mopar trans fitting and a GM trans fitting would be the same. On top of that, the Mopar cable is a few (4-5) inches short of where the 2004R fitting will end up. If you look at previous pics you should be able to see that the Mopar speedo trans connection is closer to the front than the 2004R. I figured I could get an adapter for two reasons: first, I need an adapter to compensate for the change of gears in the rear 3:08 to 4:10. Second, I need some way to extend the Mopar cable or something. I want to keep the Cuda as close to original on the dash. Anyway, I found this company that sells speedo adapters and told them my problem, they said:

"The cable ends are the same for GM unless it is a push on . The ratio adapter requires 3 speed readings to calculate . Get a GPS and when the gps says 40 wright down want you speedmeter says your doing . The same at 50 and 60 ."

Is said...NO WAY????? So I borrowed a GM cable from a friend and it screwed right into the extra 904 I have sitting in my garage. I couldn't believe it!!!:blob:

That totally solved my problem about using the stock Cuda speedo!! As you read what this company wrote you see that all you have to do is, "The ratio adapter requires 3 speed readings to calculate . Get a GPS and when the gps says 40 wright down want you speedmeter says your doing . The same at 50 and 60 ." They will sell you an adapter (pretty cheap) that solves the gearing/speedo problem (SEE PIC). How easy can it get???

I also have the short cable problem figured out as well. On ebay I found some one who sells a very short 20" GM speedo cable extension (SEE SECOND PIC). So now I can simply buy the extension do the GPS "thing" and all my speedo problems are solved!!!!!:cheers:

Third and forth pic are the GM speedo cable on the 904. One by one the problems are melting away.:burnout:
PS - I wonder what you do using a Gearvendor OD when it comes to using your stock speedometer???
Treblig in Tex

 

[transman]

For those who might be interested here is an example of the stock 2004R converter codes. The converter that came with my 2004R had the code sticker on it as you can see in the pics. If I'm reading the GM 4 digit code chart correctly the converter is a "C" = Early 700R4/2004R 27 spline series B15, stall range "G" = 1200-1400, typical clutch type and damper, looks like it's interchangeable with C, D, F & G codes.

If you can get lucky and get a Grand National trans the code's first two digits should be "CC" or "CF" which would give you a factory high stall of 2000 or more depending on the torque of your engine. Now I realize this is a Mopar web site so keep in mind that this tranny is going to be installed in a '69 Barracuda. I'm not using a Mopar overdrive because I would have to cut out a lot more metal and I want to keep the body as original as possible, including keeping the original console and shifter.

Treblig

You DON'T have to look just for a Grand National converter. The converters with these codes were also used in Corvettes, Z28's, Pontiac TA'S (with the early 700R4 transmission) and V6 turbo equipped cars with the TH2004R. These converters are not really all that hard to find. I believe that Transtar remanufacture these under their part number GM15AH. They also make a higher stall version of this (2100-2400 stall range) under their part number GM-15HP. They also have a brazed converter part number GM15AHF (1800-2000 RPM STALL), brazing the pump vanes adds internal strength to the converter, something that ALL Chyrsler converters have done to them.
I don't know whose catalog you're looking at, but see if the company just a repackager, or actually rebuild converters. Believe me, it makes a big difference in the knowledge of the sellers.