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If it's making noise in 3rd gear, it's not from the gearset because the unit turns as an assembly, it can be from a bearing inside the trans or t/converter or possible rear end.

Does it make noise in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and rev? I'm assuming just 1st & 2nd.

It will stop a bench seat when you move it forward so you can shift.

Possible incorrect size rear wheel cylinders, or you can add an adjustable rear brake proportioning valve to keep the rear brakes from locking up.

I have read a thread that they added an aftermarket oil psi gauge into the Dart cluster after removing the red oil warning light, you need to go into the search forum and type in the correct words to pull up the info.

I think it changed around 1975 to 100 mph

Plenty of room in that engine bay & on the door BAD-A-CUDA if it would hook up

I'm not sure if you want to magnetize the deck lid, you might end up with small metal dust particles building up over time when driving around and may cause scratches when trying to remove. Maybe install some clear bra material on the deck lid with a larger area than spoiler to protect the paint?

Welcome, any pictures available to see the start of a project?

Pinion snubber or lack of one?

I'm sure your correct, just let me know when you're ready. Thanks Ed. zip 91786

If you want to sell them, send me a message.

I had a billet set made in the early 80's that use the stock lug nuts like yours. only used on the rear to match the front 73 & up disc brakes of a cruising only car. My opinion I would never use adaptors on the front wheels.

jbc426, I know you modified the trans tunnel already from the posting already, my question is do you think the 4L60e would fit without surgery to the tunnel?

I've been wrong before but those look like the upper half, I don't see the lower half.

The few I got around 150-170k still had hash marks, but the cam bearings were flaking. If all your cam bearings look good, it's possible 50k. What year block, does it have oil port to cylinder heads? Get a magnifying glass and look between the valves for cracks or are you going with other heads?

Since the trans is out of the car, minimum I would just reseal it or with a few tools and reading or watch some videos, you can get an overhaul kit for internal seals and clutches.

Looks good, if you take some orders and make them longer where attach you could make some cash, I'm sure they are needed.

Nice night out, just a few deg's cooler than the last few weeks and the turbos are singing in stereo. Looks good, can't wait to see it in the ride.

What did you find wrong with #5 plug? What carb, jets, P/Valve, D/Pumper? O2 sensor on each bank? Have you tried smoke testing for Vac leak? I always thought when testing by dropping a cylinder spark, the lower the RPM's drop too would mean the stronger the cylinder is.

While you have it out is a great time to replace wiper seals.

Any pictures under hood, interior, modifications to frame for trans upgrade, suspension front to back.

Nice, would like to see the other pictures. What are the plans.

Resistance causes heat, 1 cause, possible loose dirty connections at headlight or dimmer switch.

I assume this is for a 2-speed wiper test. Dana67Dart says 1 more wire for 3-speed, can we find the test for the 3-speed?

Since your talking, how much RPM's & boost are you planning on running? :thumbsup:

Dan, why did you have to bring the book out we were getting on a roll lol.

Got Dart? What shifter do you have under the stock console. I vote for white & gold stripe.

What's the goal of the build? Sounds interesting.

They also have tools you can purchase, Adjustable Brake pedal depressor tool. or make your own.