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Double Wide Jeep 2013 - YouTube Looks real to me. Also looks like they retained both rear axles, certainly the tubes would be too weak for a single.

Something must be up? I know this guy he lives 30 miles from me. If I get out that way I'll stop in and ask what's going on?

Still Available?

Sounds like something in the circuit is storing residual power and since the led requires little to light it expended it when the door was opened. Pretty cool though

Is the case cracked? Why are you looking for another one. They really aren't that hard to go through. You didn't say what case you currently have.

Sounds more like bad connections to me as well. Start checking all the connections as stated earlier.

I appreciate the work and integrating the 3rd brake light. For me I'm not feeling the tail lights. Kinda ruins it for me.

I think too often we make an impulse buy without looking at what it will cost to put it together.Sheet metal is still available for these from after market vendors so take stock of what needs work do some research. While not uncommon with the vinyl top the rot on this one probably extends...

I use this method as well, makes quick work of it.

That works for me, the interior is a shell at the moment. Thanks Joe

Will DO! Thanks Joe

The shims need to go behind the top door hinge so I am pretty sure to gain access that fender may need to come off.

That looks like the top of the door needs some shim to bring it out to match the fender. what does the door gap look like on the bottom rear?

Mine will not be freed by lubing in any way shape or form. The L side regulator is froze solid where as the R regulator has bent. Even under the best conditions it looks like all the guides need to be removed before the regulator can be removed. The alignment process in the manual doesn't look...

I was just looking at the 1966 Plymouth service manual and I think I need to remove all the channels and guides first, then the regulator comes out last? Reverse for installation. Can someone who has done this before verify that for me?

As the title says. I need some advice. My rear quarter window regulators are froze and I have not figured out how to remove them in their current state. I have good replacements so if I need to destroy them to get them removed so be it. Basically any advice on how to get them out would be...

Most likely !

I second making sure the spindles are loose I had originally asked if it was a slant 6 but see it's a 318.

Does it have a clutch fan? I got a vibe from mine on my 383 when it was bad. Also noticed the previous owner had shimmed the water pump pulley and that didn't allow the fan clutch to mate properly to the water pump. (I suspect that was what caused my vide and clutch failure.)

I joined the Navy to get away from my ole man. About 1/2 way through boot camp I decided he wasn't so bad after all!

Awesome!!

Sounds like at the very least the switch may be shorting internally but that motor may be drawing extra amps causing the switch assy to over heat and short. It's not uncommon for the plugs to melt and deform on those switches so be sure to give it a good look over.

AGREE, run it down to your local parts store and have them hook up the tester and check the charging system. Usually free and it will tell you immediately if the alternator output is high.

Pm's sent

Still looking for a decent L fender. If you get out to the parts pile out back and find one give me a shout

Looking for a decent workable L fender if you have one you will part with shoot me a PM with pics preferable. Thanks, Joe

`Thanks guys.

Is there an aftermarket version I can get that doesn't need a lock strip.

Is there any one out there that is making the windshield and rear window gaskets that don't need the lock strip?

WOW, thanks for all the info! I love this site!