ESP47
Well-Known Member
This step was a pain for me with the TKX. Common sense did not seem to apply the way I thought it would. Wound up just having to guess and check a few times until I got it dialed in.
I haven't done anything to the pinch weld yet because I wanted to get Epoxy Primer on both sides of it first. But looking at yours and other installs it looks like the flange on the trans nearly touches the pinch weld. Sounds like it would be ideal for me to pie cut and flatten the pinch weld while K-Frame is out of the car. Once K-Frame is back in with engine I think its gonna be quite a bit more awkward/difficult of an effort.I think you’ll be ok honestly. If you look at my pinch weld I didn’t take the relief cuts all that far past the pinch, meaning that the area at the pinch didn’t change much. The bigger effect is past the pinch weld, so, rather than angling down and away it stays more flat.
It’s hard to tell from one picture of course, but even if you think about the tunnel coming straight out from the pinch weld I think you’ll have clearance
I did that on my first attempt. 1/4 bolt snapped off flush with the dowel pin. So maybe I should have used a Grade 8 threaded bolt?If anyone needs to get the dowels out again, drill and tap 1/4-20 and then run a full thread bolt in with a nut on it, put a deep socket over it and tighten the nut and it'll pull it right out.
I understood it as you were tightening the bolt itself against something or using a slide hammer. I wasn't thinking you were holding the bolt still and tightening a nut on the bolt threads. Using that method I'm a lot more suprised if it twisted off flush. I would usually use at least a grade 5 but I have a lot of grade 8 stuff since tractor supply always sold them by weight and not by the piece.I did that on my first attempt. 1/4 bolt snapped off flush with the dowel pin. So maybe I should have used a Grade 8 threaded bolt?
It was a long threaded screw which I screwed into dowel pin, used a deep socket, and a nut spun up the threads that rested on the socket. Then I held screw from turning and turned the nut up against the deep socket. The long screw snapped off right at the dowel pin. This long screw I had laying around in an old peanut butter jar with a bunch of other screws. So not sure what grade it was. Apparently low grade. So I would think grade 5 or 8 would have prevented it or at least reduced the chance of bolt snapping.I understood it as you were tightening the bolt itself against something or using a slide hammer. I wasn't thinking you were holding the bolt still and tightening a nut on the bolt threads. Using that method I'm a lot more suprised if it twisted off flush. I would usually use at least a grade 5 but I have a lot of grade 8 stuff since tractor supply always sold them by weight and not by the piece.
After doing it once, you’ll always install them that way. I usually do engine, transmission and entire front suspension all at once. It makes it an easy one man job.Awesome work! What's your procedure for installing engine/k frame from the bottom like that? Set the car down over it and hold the car up with jack stands, then reach over the top and pull the assembly up into place with the cherry picker? I've thought about doing it that way since I don't have a 2 post lift, but never done it.
I lower car down, move the engine/kframe around to line up kframe bolts, install kframe bolts, raise car up and put on jack stands. So no picking up of engine with cherry picker is required.Awesome work! What's your procedure for installing engine/k frame from the bottom like that? Set the car down over it and hold the car up with jack stands, then reach over the top and pull the assembly up into place with the cherry picker? I've thought about doing it that way since I don't have a 2 post lift, but never done it.
Yeah I will never install from the top ever again way too hard and requires additional ppl removing/installing hood way too difficult. Dropping car onto engine kframe I can do it myself not even break a sweat easy peasy.After doing it once, you’ll always install them that way. I usually do engine, transmission and entire front suspension all at once. It makes it an easy one man job.