................Yup, pinion is too far away...................kim..........
It was`nt a matter of trust, it was internet jabber albiet ford. I guess I was tring to avoid 250 ft-lb cause it takes my whole body weight to get 150 ft-lbs LOLSometimes on the pinion bearing spacer shim stack you have to play with the #'s. In other words if you need .032 and the thickest one you got is a .031 but you have a .020 and a .012 add them together. So you didn't trust me on the high amount of pinion nut torque huh, LOL..
It was`nt a matter of trust, it was internet jabber albiet ford. I guess I was tring to avoid 250 ft-lb cause it takes my whole body weight to get 150 ft-lbs LOL
contrary to your pinion preload statement pinion shim change does change preload.LOL... no big deal. Just had to throw that in there to be ornery. Do you have a yoke holder? That makes torqueing the pinion nut a lot easier. If you don't have one their not too hard to make. There's a couple home made ones in the "home made tool thread" that guys made real easy. Here's a link to the thread and you'll find them in post # 162 and 228
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=58818&page=8
3rd members aren't easy to chuck up in a vise. Not sure how your holding yours but there's also a post there where I showed my home made adapter to bolt a 8-3/4 unit to a engine stand to make servicing easy. You'll find it in post # 143
As far as shim stack, I understand all that, My kit came with 30s20s10s and 8s. .023 was needed, ol Doc had a 23 but the id was smaller and od was bigger. I had to modify, took an hour+ to do that.
Well, I could be very well fn up using this gear set, time will tell, and if their noisy and unbearable I`ll have only myself to blame. I appreciate you taking the time to try and help people on this forum and with all due respect, YOU lack reading skills, we get to page 3 and you ask if this is a used set, when it was clearly stated they were on post 1. Then you put me through the frustration of tearing everything apart only to have the pattern going the Wrong way!
I blew it back apart added the original .032 + .010 which centered the pattern verified good by my new 83 yearold neighbor, longtime mechanic/builder, who has probably forgot more than I know.
Now to get that pesky eliminator shimstack figured out, it`s down to 2-.003 shim which did`nt come with the kit, but thanks to ol`Doc, "my neighbor" had some in his stash, plus let me borrow his big torque wrench.
If you for some odd reason made a preload setting before everything else is correct and then increase the pin depth it will increase pre load.
. The very last thing you do is set preload.
.
If you moved the pin by way of race then you did the same thing, the race at the top didn't move.
If you increased the pin by say .003 you'd need to increase the preload by .003
Always set the preload last this way there is no issue
If you move the pin in say .010 you also moved it closer to the front bearing, which in turn will now lock up .010 closer together.
Solid spacer or crush sleeve, I won't use either while I'm setting pinion depth or contact pattern. I leave them out completely till I get the pattern I want. I merely install the bearings with the yoke and snug the pinion nut down to eliminate all the play. Then I go back with the crush sleeve or solid spacer and set preload last.
Well, I`m waiting...;)If your saying the pinion depth shim changes pinion bearing preload your wrong. If I'm wrong I'll admit it
Well, I`m waiting...;)
Oh yeah, I took that lead from supershafts and it makes perfect sense. Initally I was following a factory service manual, allbiet a 67 and instructions were on 742 case.I mean this in the most constructive way possible. Follow the way I recommend in post #88 and don't even worry about pinion preload until you get the pattern you want. You will save a ton of time and aggravation.
Oh yeah, I took that lead from supershafts and it makes perfect sense. Initally I was following a factory service manual, allbiet a 67 and instructions were on 742 case.
The order they were explaining, pinion preload was first in order?
I`ve read every thing I could find on the net and followed advise here.
Several pro authors say don`t even bother tring to read drive pattern, pay more attention to coast, also mentioned in this thread.
One thing I`ve learned is info varys alot even with pattern interpretations. Another thing I`ve learned is guys that do this for a living earn every bit of their money:notworth:
I can see that happening when using a crush sleeve but how can it lock up closer together when you have a solid pin spacer in between the bearings?
I'll leave you alone after this one, I promise... LOL
Well, I`m waiting...;)
You got your answer Twice in posts 84+86 but your too hardheaded to accept it. It`s ok I don`t need you to admit anything, you never will.I'm also waiting for the answer to my question above. The type of pinion spacer make a difference and I know for fact I've tested it. Can you say that??? Common sense tells you that if you don't move the bearing races and change the solid spacer length that the preload doesn't change because the bearings remain the same distance apart.
The one thing I do admit is something that I didn't tell you to do and that's to set the preload after you get the setup right.
I tell what, why don't we just forget it and you in your minute experience say I'm wrong and I'll concede and just not worry about trying to ever help you again.:wack:
You got your answer Twice in posts 84+86 but your too hardheaded accept it. It`s ok I don`t need you to admit anything, you never will.
I truly do appreciate you helping me out but with the tone of your type it`s obvious that your quick to get all butthurt and will never help me again.
I cant find the author, but I was taking notes and wrote this paragraph down in full.
{ Decreasing pinion depth increases backlash and moves the drive pattern toward heel and coast pattern towards toe which also increases pinion bearing preload requiring shim adjustment.} Maybe he was referring to another system? If I was to draw this on paper I would conclude it would decrease preload. But wtf do I know? I have minute experience.
If I`m wrong I`ll admit it AND even apologize!
I tell what, why don't we just forget it and you in your minute experience say I'm wrong and I'll concede and just not worry about trying to ever help you again.:wack:
The crush sleeve and solid or shim PERFORM the same function, neither is better or makes ANYTHING stronger.