massive reconfiguration time again.

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Nothing to hide, I want to see any leaks so I can fix them is my thoughts. Wanted to paint K-frame gold, but you'd probably be able to see it from a mile away.

Gold is good, will reflect the light ,make things easier to see. Black is good if you're trying to hide stuff.
 
Good Morning Mr jpar, get up you have some work to do. try not to get greasy ! lol
The engine compartment looks good.
 
The gold is ment for under the hood only. Kind of a little surprised when you get under there. Of course the fenders are silver and so is the motor. Picture if you will the gold as you can obviously LOL but the black in the creases of the fenders as they come around on the sides and then the silver fenders and a silver motor with black header tape damn it I pulled the trigger on that crap. That should be in by Tuesday and once I have the headers wrapped by the end of the week and hopefully the motor just touched up the paint a little bit and be putting everything back in its next weekend. Now that may be a bit of a stretch but....
 
Gold Motor? Dual Quads, Gold motor.... and some Ronnie Sox body decals??? :D
 
Ok got some good headway today. I forgot to paint the heads a couple winters ago when I had them off for bigger intake valves. So I finally got to it. Got the motor/trans hooked up to the cherry picker and we're (my wife and I) going to try gettin them back in tomorrow. Just have to paint the motor mounts and clean and attach the steering box to the K-frame. And up-up and away! :realcrazy: LOL
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pain in the....but I finally got it done.
 
You cannot make up your mind what you want to do with this car.
I thought you were taking it back to a street car, the next thing you are putting your hot-rod motor back in.
 
Can't I just have my cake and eat it too? LOL
I was trying to make a better combination and be able to street and drag more. The new configuration is to have a very clean very comfortable interior (late 70's retro) with an absolutely ANGRY mopar motor crackling from underneath and dual quads poking out of a hole in the hood! :thumbsup:
Realistically though we want it to be more comfortable.
You cannot make up your mind what you want to do with this car.
I thought you were taking it back to a street car, the next thing you are putting your hot-rod motor back in.
 
Just a couple daydreaming thoughts about this February when I start back on the Duster. But definitely I want to get rid of that loud Holly or Summit electric fuel pump and regulator. I'm not listening to that thing for one more second someone else can get a big discount on it and listen to it for a while. I am still going to run a small electric fuel pump and if it runs out of gas at the end of the drag strip I don't care. I want it to be a lot more tolerable on the street. I looked at just one of the basic smaller electric fuel pumps and it still put out more than one of the Holly High Performance manual pumps. Or at least it was comprable. But just the other day I seen an Edelbrock one that looked plastic and actually nicer than the generic ones form I think mr. gasket or something. but what I was wondering has anybody tried one of these Edelbrock electric ones as it's the first time I seen one at the store, but that doesn't necessarily mean it hasn't been out for a long time. My stock manual fuel pump supported the Dual quads with the 318 which of course is nowhere near sucking as much as the 410 Stroker, but I still have a feeling that just one of the smaller pumps is going to be more than enough. I'd love to hear any bodys experience? And wild comments are always welcome in the Jpar camp also...
 
I used the Holley mechanical fuel pump once, never ran out of fuel in the 1320. This would have been in the late 90's, not sure if this is the same one or not......
Holley Mechanical Fuel Pumps 12-360-11

I ran 6.20's in the 1/8 with my small block with a Carter mechanical pump with 3/8 rubber line. I think it would run your motor just fine. Then there is no electric fuel pump noise.
 
Mechanical should work fine. The problem i had was heat sook. Took the consistency away in the heat of the summer. No problems with a electric pusher pump.Mine is vary quiet. When i had my exh hooked up, you can't hear it running with the eng running. And i had turbo muffler all the way out the back of the car.
 
Mechanical should work fine. The problem i had was heat sook. Took the consistency away in the heat of the summer. No problems with a electric pusher pump.Mine is vary quiet. When i had my exh hooked up, you can't hear it running with the eng running. And i had turbo muffler all the way out the back of the car.
I was thinking this ?? Also I'm hoping to avoid mounting a mechanical.
Edelbrock Universal Micro Electric Fuel Pumps 17301
 
I seen one at the parts store the other day for $42.xx and on the package it clammed it would support 410hp (I think that's what it said?)
 
You might have a hard time feeding the dual fours with 5/16 fuel line. but maybe you still have 5/16 line, don't know.
In essence at WOT with two by four Edelbrocks wouldn't it now have 4 float bowls to start with? And at that point can the fuel flow override the soon to be wide open passenger side float needle(s) to get to the drivers side needle(s)?
I also remembered I'm going to put the carbs back to progressive.
 
I recommended the one i did because #1 you don't like the noise of your curent electric pump. #2 It's one of the best pump out there whether it's in side a fuel tank or mounted outside of the tank. Whether its fuel injection or carbureted (requires a good regulator) It take a tiny hole 4 amps to make 15 PSI of pressure.

Yes that one will work for your needs now and is cheaper. Plus no added cost of a regulate.
Being housed in plastic will..ah.......should be quieter........Longevity.....well i guess you'll let us know.

"I was thinking this ??"
No i was adding my opinion to my experience with my mechanical pump/s and heat sook.
 
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Just one more though.
the 2-4s will drink more fuel, pulling a heavier car down the track. While us more fuel just for the plan fact, that it will take longer to the finish line. longer is fine as long as the float bowls stay full.
 
Hopefully sometime in this next week this thread will come back alive and eventually get the duster on the road again. After over a month and a half I only had to go back two and a half pages to find this thread?
Quick recap:
73 duster
From the back of the doors forward 100% stripped. Triple scrubbed with TSP.
I have dropped the motor and trans in, but haven't connected one bolt to secure it and not even the k frame. Just basically got it off the floor and out of the way.
When I left the duster I was three-quarters of the way through wrapping the headers. I'll probably finish those, get them in and then start getting all the underside stuff first like I always do. I almost always do the things I don't like to do first.
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Does this picture overwhelm you? LOL
I think the hardest thing about putting the car back together will be hooking up that 2-Step up in it's new location? From what I gather these things can be a son of a gun!
 
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