What Are You Doing To/With Your Car Today?

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Yesterday, rear diff went back under my 76 dart sport. Crusty one in shop waiting to go under another project.
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I have to cut my 67 rear roll panel for dual exhaust. Today I made a template to match the new oval tips I am installing. View attachment 1715479713 I laid it out on the car and cut the notches where I want them on my car. View attachment 1715479714 Last thing I had to do before taking it off the stands from winter work. Put the wheels back on it and taking it for a drive around the block. Then to the alignment shop then the exhaust shop.
Well I just got back from my first drive of 2020. New sway bar in back and new front end rebuild with 1.03 torsion bars installed. Next stop alignment after I parade it to work through the middle of town in second gear. Going to be lots of Barracuda cruising for the Rat this summer:) Cheers to all-------------------------------
 
Just finished up taking a bath in ATF+4
Had a bad lockup solenoid on my A500, so overdrive was working, but no lockup.
Bought a new soleniod pack online, and just finished putting that sucker in. Have to remove the valve body so made a huge mess. Installed a drainplug in my pan while I had it off.
Anyway, its all finished up, and I took a 40 minute drive. O/D and Lockup are both working now. 70mph at 2500rpm with the o/d on.
Sweet

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Didn't do anything with the car itself, but some careful drilling/tapping on a spare secondary metering block for my 4780 Holley 800 DP (adding idle passages/screws for four-corner idle conversion). Now I have to take the carb off and apart to drill a couple of short straight passages on the main body, and install a new Quick Fuel 12-700 throttle plate (which already has all the circuits for 4-corner idle) ;)
 
Torque strap in and did some grinding on the steering coupler, all good to go now, this was Sunday fun day in my shop alone, got a lot done

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Spent the last two afternoons continuing to work on my carb with drills, taps and brass setscrews. In addition to four-corner idle, it now has replaceable idle air bleeds and transition slot restrictors (on both primaries and secondaries), and replaceable power valve channel restrictors too :)
I hope the engine will even start after all this tweaking!
 
Spent the last two afternoons continuing to work on my carb with drills, taps and brass setscrews. In addition to four-corner idle, it now has replaceable idle air bleeds and transition slot restrictors (on both primaries and secondaries), and replaceable power valve channel restrictors too :)
I hope the engine will even start after all this tweaking!
Way above my pay scale...
 
I felt that way originally too, but I did a lot of "homework" before breaking out the sharp instruments!
I am now a lot more comfortable drilling on this $60 swapmeet double pumper :)
Back in the 80's there was no way I would have attempted this, without the Internet and various forums. Information is so much easier to come by now.
 
Yesterday I spent a couple of hours tuning my now-4-corner-idle carb. Still have a big flat spot at tip-in, time to recheck transfer slot position and accelerator pump squirt. The wideband decided to crap out again so I quit despite 66F and sunny.

Today I replaced the 13/26 distributor cam plate with an 11/22. That should limit my total advance to 36 even at high RPM (idle at 27 deg with the heavy spring loop just taken up).

Also hacked together a bypass air valve (adjustable with drill bits) :D since I didn't want to drill holes in my brand new QF baseplate. Easily removable since the original 1/4-20 threads are still down the bore. Yes, I drilled out the main body while it was all apart before :rolleyes:

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Still trying to get that off-idle stumble fixed.:BangHead: Enlarging the primary squirter from .031 to .035 did eliminate it in neutral, but there is still a bad flat spot that lasts seemingly forever before the mains come in. (The entire saga, which began with converting to four-corner idle, is in the Holley forum on racingfuelsystems).
While tinkering, my electric fuel pump switch decided to come apart in my fingers... so I quit for the day :mad:
 
Yesterday I decided to swap my rear axle and backing plates. However the stock rearend was siezed couldn't get the axle shafts out so 2 1/2 hrs with a saws all got the backing plates off just to see that they won't bolt up! Well today I'm going to tet and modify them to work
 
Yesterday I decided to swap my rear axle and backing plates. However the stock rearend was siezed couldn't get the axle shafts out so 2 1/2 hrs with a saws all got the backing plates off just to see that they won't bolt up! Well today I'm going to tet and modify them to work

Going 7 1/4 backing plates to an 8 3/4 (or 8 1/4) rear axle . . don't think that is going to work, quite different and drums too.
 
Any suggestions? Live in a place with no wrecking yards and on a budget

What is the new rear axle you are putting in for starters ? 8 3/4 like pictured below, gear set comes out the front of the housing.

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8 1/4 rear axle, the gear set comes out the rear of the housing.
 
8 1/4 out of a late model fury with a sure grip 3.55 ratio had it shortend and set up for an abody. Was under my buddies dart he didn't have breaks under it
 
OK, that's a great rear axle.

Here is a post on "Recent Posts" here on page 3 right now.

Junkyard Swaps: Rear Brake Options for 8 1/4 and 8 3/4 axles.
By: kern dog

You can read through all of that to start getting some ideas. Ideally the stock drum brakes for the 8 1/4 would be ideal if you can find them.
 
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Went for a drive to the liquor store - twice! (Forgot my wallet the first time.). Caused a scene when I took this photo as everyone ran over to ask what year it was. Great early spring weather in NJ today!
 
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