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Really luv the 62s, thnx for pix

Back the four firewall bolts off a coupla turns, so the m/c is kinda loose. Try the pedal. I've had the pushrod to pedal bolt bind. It's a special shouldered bolt, and the whole pushrod/pedal thing has to pivot freely.

When hot. Would you pls supply the Temperature from top and bottom rad hose fittings, not the hoses . Where's timing set? - pls don't say "it's good". tia

I found I couldn't get a true flat piece of .5 stock without machining it down to .499. Just a heads up, that was waaay back then.

Make sure the idle bleeds are clear .

In my original post, I placed a decimal wrong. The small piece of steel is exactly 0.500" (1/2") thick . I have edited that post. Sorry for any inconvenience, eh . . Cheers

As Rusty mentioned, 3 thou can move the pattern/contact quite a bit .

Not sure I can answer that, 1968, my mentor taught me adding according to the few thou etched in the pinion, ( ala L023M8B post) - then we moved to universal shop, and all the aftermarket gears came with depth from center, made the tool to work on all.

That works great till you get an aftermarket pinion, they measure by actual depth. I copied the dealership tool, and made the carrier bearing sizes in chev, Ford, Dana, so it works on all diffs, including Toyota. The small square flat piece is exactly 0.500" (1/2") to transfer the end of the...

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/wheel-base-difference-side-to-side.338172/#post-1971103530 Member @Treblig post . Your wheelbase may vary . Cheers

Choose the 15/16 bore size option (drop-down) for better line pressures.

Make sure the idler/pitman arm isn't hitting an exhaust pipe or similar .

Jiggle your battery connections, perhaps clean both contact surfaces if not serviced recently.

I still see a few empty horizontal spaces, I know that will change, if it's like my shop, lol . Very Nice shop !

Put a bucket in the corner, toss all the trimmings there, see how much you can save . It can be substantial. Trimming weight all over often allows you to put weight where you need it.

It's a total of all the tiny enhancements, refinements the other guys don't do, - that gets the hardware in the end. Folks point at one tiny thing and asks what help that is, - by itself, prob nothing, but the grand total gets the gold, jmo

My son-in-law thought I was kidding when I handed him a hacksaw, and pointed to all the bolts that needed trimming on his racecar . ROFL ! Drag me outta my recliner, - my *** .

Karma's coming back at you, John. Be well .

I had a customer have his "stolen car" taken and returned to the real owner 20 something years later. He worked on it for years, spent tons of $$$ , but never put it in his name till finished, - then lost it when he tried to register it. Sheriff showed up at DMV, and seized it. Always put...

Cheers

We used to control engine running temp by "pill" (jet) size on our meth injection systems.

I had issues with detonation, never heard it, but the evidence was clear by the material missing, pitting close to the edge of the piston top, opposite the spark plugs. Scrutinize the piston top. My rod bearings also lost "crush". http://www.contactmagazine.com/Issue54/EngineBasics.html nother...

And a reminder that a major percentage of engines out there, you can't mess with the pulley sizes, space and pulleys are very limited,even when turbos are optional, and heat is extreme. Pump ratios stay the same, other things change .

Who's on first, lol. Hilarious. Watch the vid I posted back at #33, particularly the actions of the thermostat. then read the sign.

A working clock ! !

When my daughter dragged me outta my recliner, kicking and screaming, to build her hubby a modern, computer operated racecar, I was terrified. Simply now, - took some study, but u-tube is a lifesaver . Used to be you did first valve grind at 60 - 80k, an over the fender re-/ring about 110 -...

My mentor was like that . . .

Some of the engines I work with, you can't change pulleys sizes. No alternate pulleys, no room . With or without the turbo .

If the cooling system has the capacity to shed enuff heat, the thermostat is introduced to slow flow to get the the temp up to the desired running/heater temp.

You won't get "pedal" till you pump the pistons/pads all the way into full contact with the rotors. All the pads . Then bleed .