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conventional Mobil 1 is the #1 oil out there i like castrol myself...i believe its ranked #3

Ballast resistor VERY common

what kind of car? i bought 4 new ones from the local mopar dealer for my '75 duster

it is NOT number matching obviously, as stated above

you can buy a tool, usally called a 'sneaky pete' for doing the job with the crank still in usually contains a corkscrew type tool for pulling the old seal out and another for pulling it back through

bump i was at the nationals but just downtown looking around fri night

All street engines should run PCV otherwise you risk contaminating your oil with fuel,water,etc. the only reason i can think of you might NOT be running a PCV is maybe a race engine that is torn down frequently and the oil changed every race

Obo

Permatex PST is the answer

got one from mancini racing few years back...good price too

you can use synthetic gear oil but it has to be GL-4, not GL-5 like you probably used

ring gear bolts and the bolts that hold the sure grip carrier together

RPM in Saskatchewan is a possibility

sometimes the nicer TC you buy the harder they go in...more precision fit than a stocker follow above tips and hold your mouth the right way

bump8)

A proper mix of antifreeeze and water boils around 235F add 4F for each lb pressure on your rad cap under 200 is definately not a problem

if there was enough sticking out you could saw a slot in it and turn it out with a flat screwdriver welding something to it is another option you could also drill it and turn it out with an easyout

PS factory gauges are notoriously inaccurate...good time to put in a nice autometer

simply grounding the wire at the sensor end should bring the gauge all the way hot... if not you have a wire problem or a guage problem...if it was the regulator you would have other gauge problems as well...

RPM is Saskatchewan is a possibility

that part you are seeing with the 1/4" gap is not the bushing, its part of the control arm press the old one out and you will see what i mean new ones press in until bottomed out

bump

just support the back side of the arm and press in until they bottom out

most people would remove the intake manifold

It just taps in from the outside make sure there is no groove in the shaft where the seal runs or you're just wasting your time put some tape over the splines too to keep from cutting the seal

i cant imagine any V8 dodge engine that you have to remove the heads to install the lifters???

Ive had them stuck so bad that it removed the threads from the control arm even after using heat and penetrating fluid...most of the US guys and probably those out west wouldnt quite understand how bad things get siezed and rust here in the maritimes if you do tack weld it in, make it quick...

75 Duster 340, 4 speed, fresh sassy grass green paint w/ stripe decal pkg, blacked out hood w/ scoop, bucket seats, appraised and reciepts for all parts serious enquiries only email: [email protected] $13,500CAD all suspension bushing replaced, mostly polygraphite new ball...

18436572

DONT heat front end parts