Post your 10 second combo

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3450 with me in it. 10.92. Wrong gears, wrong convertor. I know there is more in my car, how much more...idk. Based on what hot metal wrote, My car should go 10.40 or so. that may be possible with the CORRECT convertor, which is a 5,000 stall speed which I won't run on the street.

You can math and theory the question all day but at the end of the day the timeslip won't lie. The computer doesn't take into account for any real world complications like headwind, mechanical resistance, stall speed, driver error, temperature, humidity, rear axle ratios, transmission type or ratio, etc.
 
roccodart440 said:
3450 with me in it. 10.92. Wrong gears, wrong convertor. I know there is more in my car, how much more...idk. Based on what hot metal wrote, My car should go 10.40 or so. that may be possible with the CORRECT convertor, which is a 5,000 stall speed which I won't run on the street.

You can math and theory the question all day but at the end of the day the timeslip won't lie. The computer doesn't take into account for any real world complications like headwind, mechanical resistance, stall speed, driver error, temperature, humidity, rear axle ratios, transmission type or ratio, etc.
Click to expand...

hopefully, a driver takes a car out several times in differing weather conditions. Then its pretty easy to figure out what the car runs.
None of this takes into account a poorly put together combo that doesn't run as well as it should.
A typical “ well sorted” combo should run what its supposed to.
Think Dwayne Porter has posted on here several times ET’s should be easily with 10% of an accurate dyno.
I have no idea why you wouldnt run a 5k flash vert on the street. To think you can't is an old wives tale. I have on every car i have had, with zero issues. Converters these days have come a long ways from where they were years ago.
Chances are, they are better than a typical 10 inch 3500 “street” vert, which are typically way less efficient than an 8 inch is.
Btw..does your car weigh 3180 or 3450, you have posted both in this thread. Big difference
 
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B3422w5 said:
I have no idea why you wouldn't run a 5k flash vert on the street. To think you can't is an old wives tale. I have on every car i have had, with zero issues. Converters these days have come a long ways from where they were years ago.
Chances are, they are better than a typical 10 inch 3500 “street” vert, which are typically way less efficient than an 8 inch is.
Btw..does your car weigh 3180 or 3450, you have posted both in this thread. Big difference
Click to expand...

One is the weight of the car itself, the other is with me in it.

I do mostly street driving and have a GVOD. I've called 3 different converter companies, neil chance (who refers mopar guys to another company), PTC and Dynamic. All put me at 4,000ish flash stall. Now i'd love to run more and i'm aware and believe in modern converter tech, but it's tough to argue with the guys making it for you. Do have a company your recommend?

My cam peaks TQ 575@4500. So if I can get someone to make me something even over 4k it would be great. Currently I run an Art Carr 3500 that is very effiucient, too tight in fact. It is an issue at idle and can only foot brake to maybe 1200 before pushing and twisting the car at the line. I leave on high idle and it flashes to 3500. I'm only 60ft'ing 1.70ish and There is way more to be had there.
 
roccodart440 said:
One is the weight of the car itself, the other is with me in it.

I do mostly street driving and have a GVOD. I've called 3 different converter companies, neil chance (who refers mopar guys to another company), PTC and Dynamic. All put me at 4,000ish flash stall. Now i'd love to run more and i'm aware and believe in modern converter tech, but it's tough to argue with the guys making it for you. Do have a company your recommend?

My cam peaks TQ 575@4500. So if I can get someone to make me something even over 4k it would be great. Currently I run an Art Carr 3500 that is very effiucient, too tight in fact. It is an issue at idle and can only foot brake to maybe 1200 before pushing and twisting the car at the line. I leave on high idle and it flashes to 3500. I'm only 60ft'ing 1.70ish and There is way more to be had there.
Click to expand...

i have always went with 300 ish over peak torque as to where the convertor should flash, have gotten that advice from guys way smarter than me… and i have been happy with results.
My current heap has been 1.44 and only runs 10.70’s….not much head flow. Very happy with that. 3320 with me, soon adding weight with a new Dana..lol
I have used PTC forever, but have gotten some feedback from several guys i respect a lot recently about a guy named Jason who owns Quickdraw Convertors in Ohio. Very, very sharp.
He just redid mine for this new motor and its exactly how i wanted it…..
Doing my brothers right now, just did one for my buddies Gen 3 super stocker. Give him good info, he will make you a happy camper!
His track record is excellent
 
B3422w5 said:
i have always went with 300 ish over peak torque as to where the convertor should flash, have gotten that advice from guys way smarter than me… and i have been happy with results.
My current heap has been 1.44 and only runs 10.70’s….not much head flow. Very happy with that. 3320 with me, soon adding weight with a new Dana..lol
I have used PTC forever, but have gotten some feedback from several guys i respect a lot recently about a guy named Jason who owns Quickdraw Convertors in Ohio. Very, very sharp.
He just redid mine for this new motor and its exactly how i wanted it…..
Doing my brothers right now, just did one for my buddies Gen 3 super stocker. Give him good info, he will make you a happy camper!
His track record is excellent
Click to expand...


I'll give them a call. I always heard 500rpm over but 300 to 500 isn't much difference. My heads flow 345cfm.
 
How about the fastest you go with 340 heads, reworked. Info on your set up and weight also please. Thanks.
 
roccodart440 said:
I'll give them a call. I always heard 500rpm over but 300 to 500 isn't much difference. My heads flow 345cfm.
Click to expand...

what heads do you have?
Did i read you are 10 to 1 with a 112 lsa cam?
If so, without much compression i can almost guarantee you not much vert and that wide cam will kill 60 foot.
Saw it first hand with a combo i had. Wide LSA likes lots of compression and lots of flash. Mph will look good, but its novocaine to the 60 foot numbers, really numbs a car up…except maybe the mph
 
roccodart440 said:
3450 with me in it. 10.92. Wrong gears, wrong convertor. I know there is more in my car, how much more...idk. Based on what hot metal wrote, My car should go 10.40 or so. that may be possible with the CORRECT convertor, which is a 5,000 stall speed which I won't run on the street.

You can math and theory the question all day but at the end of the day the timeslip won't lie. The computer doesn't take into account for any real world complications like headwind, mechanical resistance, stall speed, driver error, temperature, humidity, rear axle ratios, transmission type or ratio, etc.
Click to expand...

or tires spinning instead of biting ---
 
roccodart440 said:
3450 with me in it. 10.92. Wrong gears, wrong convertor. I know there is more in my car, how much more...idk. Based on what hot metal wrote, My car should go 10.40 or so. that may be possible with the CORRECT convertor, which is a 5,000 stall speed which I won't run on the street.

You can math and theory the question all day but at the end of the day the timeslip won't lie. The computer doesn't take into account for any real world complications like headwind, mechanical resistance, stall speed, driver error, temperature, humidity, rear axle ratios, transmission type or ratio, etc.
Click to expand...
Why not run a 5k converter on the street? I have been doing it for many years, and it is not a big deal at all. I have a PTC 8" converter that stalls a little over 5k (about 5200), and I drive the car all over town. I even drive it to the track some days...click off low 10 second passes and drive home. A quality converter will behave itself just fine on the street.

And yes, your car will pick up a big chunk with a good converter, probably put it in the mid 10's easy....heck, just getting it to a decent 60' would put you at 10.5 in the 1/4.
 
roccodart440 said:
You can math and theory the question all day but at the end of the day the timeslip won't lie. The computer doesn't take into account for any real world complications like headwind, mechanical resistance, stall speed, driver error, temperature, humidity, rear axle ratios, transmission type or ratio, etc.
Click to expand...

THANK YOU! I have said this many times to “Other internet gurus” who insist the calculators are accurate. I say only in a perfect world! To science out an engine and combo and car is one thing. It doesn’t guarantee that your going to run the time and speed.
 
B3422w5 said:
what heads do you have?
Did i read you are 10 to 1 with a 112 lsa cam?
If so, without much compression i can almost guarantee you not much vert and that wide cam will kill 60 foot.
Saw it first hand with a combo i had. Wide LSA likes lots of compression and lots of flash. Mph will look good, but its novocaine to the 60 foot numbers, really numbs a car up…except maybe the mph
Click to expand...

I have jim laroy perf RPM heads. 10.5 with 112 LSA solid roller. [email protected] .650 lift.

I just called an ordered a convertor from COAN. It will be a 4500 stall. Loose 9" or tight 8".

bob mCcarty said:
or tires spinning instead of biting ---
Click to expand...

Dead hooks, wrinkles and goes.
 
roccodart440 said:
I have jim laroy perf RPM heads. 10.5 with 112 LSA solid roller. [email protected] .650 lift.

I just called an ordered a convertor from COAN. It will be a 4500 stall. Loose 9" or tight 8".



Dead hooks, wrinkles and goes.
Click to expand...

nice work on the heads! Those go WAY more than any big block eddies i have ever heard of. Plenty of head to run well in the 9’s with, easily.
 
Hi, finally i can post here.....excited! previous best was 11.09, since then i swapped headers from 1 5/8" cheapos to 1 7/8" hedmans, and put in another cam i picked the lobes and had comp grind it. We did a test&tune this weekend, weather was not the best - just too hot, and the track seems to be a little greasy. So i went 10.79 @ 124 mph, 1.62 60ft. Since the car did a 1.51 60ft. before, i´m pretty confident that with better track prep and cooler weather 2 tenths faster should be possible.......this is great succes for me and the modifications i did.

Combo: 408SB, cast crank, KB hyper pistons around 10:1, IMM "import" heads (cnc´d procomps) with 2.05" Intakes valves, Edelbrock Victor intake, 1" open spacer, Holley Sniper EFI and Ignition (running perfectly), my own spec´d cam 250/250° @ .050" (Hydraulic Roller), .620" Lift, 108° LSA, Hedman 1 7/8" headers with Dynomax race mini bullets. PTC 8" / 4800 stall converter, home built 904, Ford 8.8 with 4.10 Gears. Car is a 1968 Valiant 2dr Sedan (all steel), SS Springs in the rear, Comp Engineering drag shocks all around. I run 28x9 MT Pro Bracket Radials.

Michael

wheelie_zerbst_21.jpg
wheelie_zerbst.jpg
burnout2_zerbst.jpg
 
rumblefish360 said:
THANK YOU! I have said this many times to “Other internet gurus” who insist the calculators are accurate. I say only in a perfect world! To science out an engine and combo and car is one thing. It doesn’t guarantee that your going to r
un the time and speed.
Click to expand...

could not agree more ! The score boards at the end of the track will tell you what you need to know in the end ! Dyno’s are nice ! They can get you close !! The real deal is the real deal ! Don’t care which way you slice it !
 
360duster said:
Hi, finally i can post here.....excited! previous best was 11.09, since then i swapped headers from 1 5/8" cheapos to 1 7/8" hedmans, and put in another cam i picked the lobes and had comp grind it. We did a test&tune this weekend, weather was not the best - just too hot, and the track seems to be a little greasy. So i went 10.79 @ 124 mph, 1.62 60ft. Since the car did a 1.51 60ft. before, i´m pretty confident that with better track prep and cooler weather 2 tenths faster should be possible.......this is great succes for me and the modifications i did.

Combo: 408SB, cast crank, KB hyper pistons around 10:1, IMM "import" heads (cnc´d procomps) with 2.05" Intakes valves, Edelbrock Victor intake, 1" open spacer, Holley Sniper EFI and Ignition (running perfectly), my own spec´d cam 250/250° @ .050" (Hydraulic Roller), .620" Lift, 108° LSA, Hedman 1 7/8" headers with Dynomax race mini bullets. PTC 8" / 4800 stall converter, home built 904, Ford 8.8 with 4.10 Gears. Car is a 1968 Valiant 2dr Sedan (all steel), SS Springs in the rear, Comp Engineering drag shocks all around. I run 28x9 MT Pro Bracket Radials.

Michael

View attachment 1715757269 View attachment 1715757268 View attachment 1715757267
Click to expand...

Hell yeah Michael! Nice car! Next time close the door good. LOL
 
rumblefish360 said:
THANK YOU! I have said this many times to “Other internet gurus” who insist the calculators are accurate. I say only in a perfect world! To science out an engine and combo and car is one thing. It doesn’t guarantee that your going to run the time and speed.
Click to expand...

Anybody that totally relies on calculators is a dumbass. You have to measure to get 100% accurate. ....but you cannot tell people that who constant lap up anything they're told......so I just stop tryin.
 
If I wasn't a married man, this would be my 10 second ride. That's about all I'd last.
JANE.jpg
 
Update.....did some test&tune this weekend, night at the track was pretty cold (below 0°C....good that i have some antifreeze in it ;-)). Weather and air was very nice, track pretty good: i got home with a new best 60ft. (1.495) and a new best ET (10.701). Unfortunately the run with the best 60ft. was not the quickest run....both combined it would have been a 10.6x. Car ran good, went home without any trouble. Now time for upgrades as every wintertime :)

Michael
 
360duster said:
Hi, finally i can post here.....excited! previous best was 11.09, since then i swapped headers from 1 5/8" cheapos to 1 7/8" hedmans, and put in another cam i picked the lobes and had comp grind it. We did a test&tune this weekend, weather was not the best - just too hot, and the track seems to be a little greasy. So i went 10.79 @ 124 mph, 1.62 60ft. Since the car did a 1.51 60ft. before, i´m pretty confident that with better track prep and cooler weather 2 tenths faster should be possible.......this is great succes for me and the modifications i did.

Combo: 408SB, cast crank, KB hyper pistons around 10:1, IMM "import" heads (cnc´d procomps) with 2.05" Intakes valves, Edelbrock Victor intake, 1" open spacer, Holley Sniper EFI and Ignition (running perfectly), my own spec´d cam 250/250° @ .050" (Hydraulic Roller), .620" Lift, 108° LSA, Hedman 1 7/8" headers with Dynomax race mini bullets. PTC 8" / 4800 stall converter, home built 904, Ford 8.8 with 4.10 Gears. Car is a 1968 Valiant 2dr Sedan (all steel), SS Springs in the rear, Comp Engineering drag shocks all around. I run 28x9 MT Pro Bracket Radials.

Michael

View attachment 1715757269 View attachment 1715757268 View attachment 1715757267
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info Bro. Do you know what she weights?
 
360duster said:
Update.....did some test&tune this weekend, night at the track was pretty cold (below 0°C....good that i have some antifreeze in it ;-)). Weather and air was very nice, track pretty good: i got home with a new best 60ft. (1.495) and a new best ET (10.701). Unfortunately the run with the best 60ft. was not the quickest run....both combined it would have been a 10.6x. Car ran good, went home without any trouble. Now time for upgrades as every wintertime :)

Michael
Click to expand...
Congratulations, I'll have to convert to "f" to see how cold that is. I hope to finally get my dart on the track next season
 
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