Slant 6 Turbo 68Dart Project

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thats good. jb weld should be sufficient. it is was boost referenced using the port on the bottom of the carb but the boost it was getting from that was lower then what was in the bowls.

for the timing set. the two gears should have dots on them, you line everything up in a straight line. cam bolt, dot on the cam gear, dot on the crank sprocket and the bolt hole in the crank. ive read a few places that they arent marking them right. not sure if its true or not. ive done a couple in the car. removing the radiator isnt necessary but is good insurance. to get the old sprocket off of the crank use a cold chisel and a hammer or a puller. just smack it with a hammer until it cracks and pull it off. line the cam and crank up before pulling it apart. putting the new one on is simple. without the chain on put the cam gear on and slide the crank sprocket on just far enough so that it sits in the woodruff key. make sure they are lined up. once you have verified that put the chain on both of the gears and slide them on and into position at the same time. i use a hammer and a 3/8 extension to put the crank gear on. tapping all the way around until its completely seated. dont forget to put your oil slinger back on before putting the timing cover on.

when pulling off the balancer make sure you use a puller that pulls from the center section and doesnt grab onto the outside ring. if you pull it from the ring it can and probably will come apart. i always use a universal steering wheel puller with a "Y" shape. works well.
 
I have the steering wheel puller with the "Y" - well it's more like a Y with another line in the center of the two hashes. -but nevertheless I have one, and that's good info before I just went out trying to pull the balancer with a normal gear puller.

One of the things i guess I didn't clarify that i needed to know - when realligning the gear and sprocket, am I turning the cam shaft or the crank to make them match? Or both and then pulling the distributor and finding TDC#1 and retiming?

Also have you heard any bad about either the Cloys or Comp cams set? Is one actually better than the other?
 
the stock cam and crank gears should have a mark to put them back in time. i would use that for reference just in case what ever timing set you do get is off. shouldnt have to pull the distributor. just get it set so the slack is even on both sides of the gears. assuming you do that you shoudnt have to turn either one to get them to line back up with the new set. its not like the set you have on now jumped a tooth or anything. if its running then it is still pretty close to being in time.

havent heard anything about either one of those brands. might be worth starting a thread or doing some searching on .org. they would know.
 
Good info Rusty - I guess I was thinking about it more jumping than being slacked. SOunds pretty straightforward. I think every time I hear anyone on .org getting a new chain they get the Cloys one, so I may go with that.

I drove the car today. It initially had an issue driving up a small hill before it was "fully" warmed up. The car kept acting like it was going to die. Vroom... Vroom.... Vrooom... Vroom with the gas pedal in a standing position.

I'm thinking the fuel pressure is off now that I've been adjusting everything. I think I may have messed it up when I reconnected all the fuel lines -have to go buy another gauge. The one I had started leaking oil everywhere so I tossed it and took it out of the system assuming the pressure would stay the same.

Also when driving, I get a nice 14afr when cruising on light throttle, but on WOT it jumps to 16. Something isn't right. The car also acts like it's struggling to move forward at WOT. MORE TUNING!

I think the powervalve pocket is not overcoming the pressure in the fuel bowl. Is there a way to reduce the pressure in the fuel bowl? Or increase the other? Short of The exhaust tube?

Another thing I can think of is I had a bit of fuel shoot up the tube i just made into the carb hat on the first start up. I thought that side is not supposed to have fuel going through it?
 
it is pretty easy. cracking the sprocket to get it off of the crank is the hardest part. im always afraid of nicking the crank. havent yet though.

sounds like it is starving for fuel. might wanna double check the float adjustment. did you clean everything out really well before you put it all back together?

no way to get rid of the pressure in the bowl. making the extension on the tube you made might help. taking of the vent tube extension might too. you could also try a lighter spring on the power valve.

the power valve cavity is supposed to be dry. ever time i pull my metering block off there is a little gas in there though. i think it was coming up from from the port. not to sure though.
 
Well, that seemed to be an isolated incident, it never starved for fuel again, but I do notice what's going on - if you stay in the gas long enough to hit 1psi the AFR goes back to 11, so I'm thinking there is a gap between where the jets carry it to where the brpv is activating. It still feels slow on the uptake though. Maybe bigger jets are needed than .62s because I used to have the power valve and jets carrying it into boost?
 
so you floor it, it stumbles then goes? that sounds like a float adjustment. its taking to long for the fuel to travel up to the boosters.
 
at idle, cruise and light throttle you are basically running on the idle circuit. once you get past that then the boosters kick in.
 
Nope. cruising along, floor it - like mash the pedal and the car accelerates slowly to a point where it starts really pumping fuel and then the AFR drops down. IT does not back off like you would think -it is consistant, but slow. I'll check the float level regardless - it doesn't hurt.
 
what number squirter do you have in there? might need to up that a little and maybe change the accelerator pump cam.
 
I'm not sure on the squirter size. I didn't know those could be replaced. I just jumped from the two 61's to two 65s. Pepboys now has an aisle dedicated to carburetors and (mostly) Holley parts. They had some 61's (which I already had) or 70's in the realm. 70 seemed like too much of a leap. I went with 65's for about $6.00 and they have definitly bumped the cruising speed AFR back into the 13's. When it's at WOT though - I still get a drop between 12-14. I feel maybe increasing the size of the PVCR's would help this?
 
Serj22 said:
I'm not sure on the squirter size. I didn't know those could be replaced. I just jumped from the two 61's to two 65s. Pepboys now has an aisle dedicated to carburetors and (mostly) Holley parts. They had some 61's (which I already had) or 70's in the realm. 70 seemed like too much of a leap. I went with 65's for about $6.00 and they have definitly bumped the cruising speed AFR back into the 13's. When it's at WOT though - I still get a drop between 12-14. I feel maybe increasing the size of the PVCR's would help this?
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This is on sale for $50.87.... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-36-181

Very handy for guys like us.... Ask Santa...
 
So far still running good - chasing the timing to be perfect, but other than that - running nice. Pretty soon I'll get another big paycheck for this restoration project I'm working on, then I'm thinking of getting the exhaust finished with 2.5 or 3" from the point where they stopped (about halfway past driver's door) and get it all the way out the back, with a nice tip on the end. Then I'm having them redo my downpipe with 02 bung for a nicer curve that isn't so harsh and looks better. They going to do the whole shebang for $200. It's way cheaper than me messing around with it and I don't have a bender.

I will also get a new gasket for the turbo flange while I'm at it. The one I have has a pinhole leak letting exhaust out before the turbo, so that needs to go. I'm thinking the remflex one for turbo diesels.

I'm slowing some of the Go-fast purchases to get the interior back together. I've spent a long time staring at my bare-foam dash and that needs a cap or something, and then I'm breaking out the sewing machine to make some really nice door panels. I don't know if anyone caught my rear seat upholstery but it turned out nice for a first time attempt I think. Now i just need to tie the rest of the interior together.
 
Kinda.

Mostly aesthetic. I just finished ordering the rest of my interior components to put the inside of the car back in a comfortable shape. My temporary carpet lasted about two years and now it's done for. Ordered a real one, and about $100 worth of fabric to sew for door panels.

I did manage to get the valve cover off, adjusted the valves, and was surprised to see exhaust on 5 out to .025 but all the rest were still in spec. I just see no reason not to adjust and check them if the valve cover is coming off. So then I put the wrinkle black one I made on, painted the intake tubing, reseated everything and apparently solved a vacuum leak in the process because now I have 15 inches of vacuum instead of 10. I have no idea what I did, but I'm not going to question it.

I also primered and painted the intake tubing safety blue, put a nicer bead on all the pieces and reassembled. I took the intake/exhaust and everything off again and repainted the block and head silver metal flake by Duplicolor - I am very happy with the results and my aesthetic idea for what the engine was supposed to look like is complete.

I am trying to find a nicer turbo to put on at the moment, and have ordered a new blow off valve. The one I have functions intermittently. The car itself has been running great and near 6k miles.

I am questioning the turbocharger itself as I can only seem to hit 8psi. I'm taking the car to an exhaust shop next week to double check my work, and finish the exhaust out the back. This way I know there's no leaks in the exhaust pre-turbo and can rule that out, but knowing that I was at 0 boost with an exhaust leak which suddenly started functioning again when the leak was fixed - I have to check that. Exhaust shop is going to re-weld my welds, and do the last 6 feet of exhaust, new muffler, and remake the down pipe with a much smoother curve all for $220.

The other thing I intend to do once boost is able to be increased is get a boost/ retard module and reattach the msd6 system. I also wouldn't mind removing the head and porting everything to match the gasket, but was thinking maybe in the future I'll kill the head gasket and that would be the perfect time to do more head work.

I'm also planning on running my boost referenced power valve pocket straight to the turbocharger shell, and finding a way to organize all these boost lines going everywhere.

There's still lots to do, but at this point it's all improvements - I'm at a stable tune right now.

I'll still keep everything updated on here, and hopefully I have more to show. Lots of ideas in my head, just waiting for the money for each one.





 
Awesome. I like the new look, keep at it, one step at a time will get you there on the rest. :burnout:
 
Maybe your waste gate diaphragm is only rated at 8psi, have you tried a Manuel boost controller to up the boost, or what you can do since a Manuel controller is basically a air bleed get a straight plastis hose connector and start with a small hole drill it on on side and see if that does anything, put it between the wastegates and turbo housing. Used to do this on our srt4 neons.
 
Matts440 said:
Maybe your waste gate diaphragm is only rated at 8psi, have you tried a Manuel boost controller to up the boost, or what you can do since a Manuel controller is basically a air bleed get a straight plastis hose connector and start with a small hole drill it on on side and see if that does anything, put it between the wastegates and turbo housing. Used to do this on our srt4 neons.
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I have a manual boost controller on it, and no matter where I seem to move the bleed, even letting it all the way out 8 psi seems to be the max.
 
I bought another car....

It's a fun little 318 and the girlfriend is going to drive it. SHe's pretty happy with it. Runs real nice.

If it ever has a massive failure, it has an 8 1/4 rear end, disc brakes, full clean interior, sheet metal.... the list goes on, but I think it's going to wind up getting painted and kept...



In turbo news, I'm hopefully about to secure a HX30 Holset for the slant... we'll see.
 
Serj22 said:
In turbo news, I'm hopefully about to secure a HX30 Holset for the slant... we'll see.
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Is boost really that addicting? I feel like everyone goes through 5-10 iterations of their setup before they get to the final product. Lol.
 
Serj22 said:
You should try it sometime. Maybe one day I'll quit drinking energy drinks too. lol
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Well, one day you'll buy a turbo, wastegate, bov, carb hat, etc. Then a week later you decide you don't like a bov so you get another, then you say screw it to the wastegate so you get another, then you find a sick deal on a turbo on CL so you get another. Lol. Sounds pricey. :D

And I'll most likely go turbo eventually. I go back and forth with drivetrain options for my Dart and right now I'm thinking SRT4 again. I'll probably do a minor rebuild on the 273 in the future (for learning experience) and just end up throwing a turbo on that for another project.
 
MuuMuu101 said:
Well, one day you'll buy a turbo, wastegate, bov, carb hat, etc. Then a week later you decide you don't like a bov so you get another, then you say screw it to the wastegate so you get another, then you find a sick deal on a turbo on CL so you get another. Lol. Sounds pricey. :D

And I'll most likely go turbo eventually. I go back and forth with drivetrain options for my Dart and right now I'm thinking SRT4 again. I'll probably do a minor rebuild on the 273 in the future (for learning experience) and just end up throwing a turbo on that for another project.
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It's never ending for sure. BTW, my new blow off valve came in the mail today. The old one wasn't that great... everything you say is true.
 
MuuMuu101 said:
Well, one day you'll buy a turbo, wastegate, bov, carb hat, etc. Then a week later you decide you don't like a bov so you get another, then you say screw it to the wastegate so you get another, then you find a sick deal on a turbo on CL so you get another. Lol. Sounds pricey. :D

And I'll most likely go turbo eventually. I go back and forth with drivetrain options for my Dart and right now I'm thinking SRT4 again. I'll probably do a minor rebuild on the 273 in the future (for learning experience) and just end up throwing a turbo on that for another project.
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its not a matter of constantly buying stuff. its more of a budget thing. there are parts that are top of the line that you would only need to buy one of. they are expensive. then there are parts that will get the job done albeit not that well but good enough. they are cheap. the good stuff comes up for great prices once in a while and its worth it to upgrade from the base model stuff. if you had the money to drop the first time then it wouldnt be an issue. most of the slant turbo setups ive seen just wanted to get it together and test out the foam in the seat backs. at least thats how it was for me.
 
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