Unexplainable Transmission Stutter... help?

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really seems odd that you had a working transmission and with nothing done besides a fluid adjustment it would all go to crap - I assume your still going to check cooler lines and external cooler for obstructions - this sucks for you - maybe go buy the wife some diamond earings today before you get the parts for the car, distractions work sometimes LOL

or just tell her its for the kids

Oh she thinks I did something on purpose... hint I didn't.

I agree I am going to check lines for obstructions still, and I agree this is stupid weird for it to take a dump out of no where with nothing done to it.

I agree on the cooler lines obstructions. I believe that was a change you made.

Yes I'll be checking them.

That filter does not look that bad IF the transmission has a lot of hours on it. If its a fairly fresh rebuild it may be an issue. There will always be some debris in the pan to some extent. If that trans has been slipping the fluid will have a distinct smell to it. Kinda hard to miss.

The fluid smells just like transmission fluid. I have no clue how many miles are on the trans. I got the car last August(?) And have put maybe 4-500 miles on it. Other than the things I've done on it, (which has been a fairly deep rabbit hole) I dont know what else has been done on the car or when it was done.
 
yes, mark it before you loosen it so you don't get mixed up. That fluid really looks pretty good to me, and not that much debris. Looks like moisture in the fluid somewhat tho; like the car sat for a long time. White pressure regulator spring and adjustment clocked way up.

To double check, you want me to loosen the bolt all the way out? Because currently I cannot tighten it anymore than it already is.
 
Just opened up both lines to the external trans cooler and fluid came out both lines and the trans cooler. It also started coming out of the transmission as well (the trans pan is not on it) so I'm assuming air pushed the fluid out of the line to the transmission, meaning no blockage.
 
To double check, you want me to loosen the bolt all the way out? Because currently I cannot tighten it anymore than it already is.
There is a lock nut. It has to be loosened first. The setting varies, 1-1/2 to 2 turns out from 72 inch pounds.depends on the year/model of car. I bought the special 5/16” square drive for it. Funny thing, some older el cheapo sets had the 5/16” double square socket in them.
 
Ok I took it off. Loosened the lock nut which is a 1/4 socket. The nut took 29 full revolutions to come all the way off.

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Ok I took it off. Loosened the lock nut which is a 1/4 socket. The nut took 29 full revolutions to come all the way off.

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Nope.should have been more clear, how many turns in to snug.
The lever touches a servo, when applied its like a brake band. When released, the roughly two turns allow it to freewheel. Too loose and it will slip,and too tight it will burn up.
 
The bands need occasional adjustment.
 
Nope.should have been more clear, how many turns in to snug.
The lever touches a servo, when applied its like a brake band. When released, the roughly two turns allow it to freewheel. Too loose and it will slip,and too tight it will burn up.

Ok. So I'll go 29 turns to get it back on, then tighten it past that many turns to see how many it takes to make it snug?

What is this cable? Speedometer? It was moved away from the firewall when I painted the firewall, could this cause the problem?
It seems to be plugged in at both the trans and in the back of the dash, which it requires a contortionist to get in a spot to try and make sure its plugged into the back of the dash.

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My fsm says only tighten it to 9lbs, is it saying to tighten the external nut to 9lbs and the internal 1/4 bolt should be tightened to 72lbs like you said?
 
First, yes, that is speedo cable.

big nut is 9 foot-lbs, or 108 inch-lbs.
square is 72 inch lbs,then backed off the number of turns in manual. Hold square and tighten
Hex nut gooduntite! torquing it to spec is difficult as you have to keep square from turning.
 
First, yes, that is speedo cable.

big nut is 9 foot-lbs, or 108 inch-lbs.
square is 72 inch lbs,then backed off the number of turns in manual. Hold square and tighten
Hex nut gooduntite! torquing it to spec is difficult as you have to keep square from turning.

Yep I'm fucked as I took it all the way out lol. I have to figure out how to get them tightened properly before I can figure out how to adjust them :realcrazy: I guess its a good time to learn since I have to sleep in it anyways :lol:
 
Nothing to it. Unless you dont have an inch-lb torque wrench.
And square drive socket.
 
Well, i’ll be damned. It is!
Something is up with that. All i have ever seen is square drive. Someone has been in there.
 
6 foot-lbs? Foot lb torque wrenches usually arent that accurate on the low end.
 
Just run the adjuster bolt all the way in by hand and back it out 1.5 turns and lock it down with the nut.
You should have about 1/2 inch that the lever can be lifted off the servo socket.

I know, I know, but when you have done it 1,000.00 times well, you know.
When building these I would stick my finger tip between the front band servo pin and the lever and start tightening the adjuster.
When the tip of the servo pin started to hurt though my finger nail it was adjusted.
Hold the stud and lock it down with the nut.
 
Just because fluid comes out of both ends of the line doesn't mean it isn't partially blocked. Blast compressed air thru it. Wasn't that the ONLY thing you changed pertaining to the trans?
 
Those top bolts that hold the tranny to the engine are SOB's but I got the heavy ****** out! I actually had to slide the trans off the jack after getting it out since the jack with the trans on it was still a little to high to slide it out from under the car.

My current TC is I believe a 10 in converter (measuring bolt hole to bolt hole) and is 12 1/4in tooth to tooth. It has 5225 stamped on it and 762 written on it most likely from when it was rebuilt before. I could only get it to foot brake stall to around 1800 before the tires started spinning so I'm assuming it's a stock stall rebuild?

I'll clean the trans up tomorrow before Tony and I start taking it apart.

I'm picking up a trans rebuild kit in the morning and I think I might drop my converter off at a converter rebuild company here in town. I can have it rebuilt to stall at 2500 for 200 dollars and can pick it up on friday. Every company I've called recommended about 2500 stall 11in converters and if mine is 10in I should be a little ahead of the game.

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Getting it done! I hope you guys find a definitive answer to your problem.
Had a ‘68 coronet,broke the reverse band. i pulled it in my gravel driveway. First time i dropped one out.
put it on a 2 wheel hand cart, ran it to the car wash and back. Carried it into the basement and tore it down and fixed it.
To put it back in i mounted cross member to it, crawled under and bench pressed it back into place. Just needed jack to raise it up to bolt crossmember back in.

that was 1984.never again. Had to wait for the puddle under car to freeze so i wasnt laying in water.
 
Getting it done! I hope you guys find a definitive answer to your problem.
Had a ‘68 coronet,broke the reverse band. i pulled it in my gravel driveway. First time i dropped one out.
put it on a 2 wheel hand cart, ran it to the car wash and back. Carried it into the basement and tore it down and fixed it.
To put it back in i mounted cross member to it, crawled under and bench pressed it back into place. Just needed jack to raise it up to bolt crossmember back in.

that was 1984.never again. Had to wait for the puddle under car to freeze so i wasnt laying in water.

Carried? Bench press? I'm much to old for that, hell I'd break a shoulder just thi king about doing g those kinds of things :eek:
 
Carried? Bench press? I'm much to old for that, hell I'd break a shoulder just thi king about doing g those kinds of things :eek:
I think twice about even lifting a transmission today. i set them onto deck on hoist and slide it onto my transmission jack.
 
Well making some progress! Thanks for the help everyone!

My transmission guy said that it went FUBR because of a not so smart owner who doesn't know how to drive and shouldn't own a mopar... actually there was a lot of end play in the input shaft and it looks like the guy who rebuilt it last forgot a thrust washer.

Got a new rebuild kit and got a tf2 and TC will be done Friday. We should be finished putting it back together on friday too. We got the rear clutch assembled but we couldn't get the front clutch assembled because my clutch uses thin discs and the kit came with regular/thick discs. Tomorrow we will have some thin discs (4) and put it all back together then check clearances.

My transmission also shows that I have a low first gear (2.74?). That with my new 2500 stall tc and 3.23 rear gear should make for a fun little A-body; if it ever drives again :lol:

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Getting it done! I hope you guys find a definitive answer to your problem.
Had a ‘68 coronet,broke the reverse band. i pulled it in my gravel driveway. First time i dropped one out.
put it on a 2 wheel hand cart, ran it to the car wash and back. Carried it into the basement and tore it down and fixed it.
To put it back in i mounted cross member to it, crawled under and bench pressed it back into place. Just needed jack to raise it up to bolt crossmember back in.

that was 1984.never again. Had to wait for the puddle under car to freeze so i wasnt laying in water.
My first rebuild was a 904 in 1980. Lucky it snowed so I could pile it up around the car to keep the wind out.
 
Smooth beige thins won't hold up in the front clutch. Did somebody mention thin smooth red eagles in that drum?

I was just told I need thin clutch discs and aarcuda (who is helping me do everything) said he has a stack of thin clutch discs and he will bring 4 over which we can use in my trans and he will take the thick ones home.
 
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