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tie rod adjuster

i wouldn't even bat an eye. it would probably be in the back of the truck already.

alignment and, front and rear bars, are the number one thing i recommend to all mopar guys when they ask about upgrades, in the suspension area. the biggest complaint i hear is" it drives like a brick". this is the fix. IMHO.

yup all the same. an a-body is an a-body is an a-body.

i measure at the center line of the wheel on both sides, from the floor to the inside of the wheel opening. jack the bolts in untill i get the ride height i'm looking for. i also shake the front end up and down, and side to side, to make it settle out before i measure. just get it off the bump...

in 30 years of messing with these cars and scowering the junk yards, i've NEVER seen a broken T bar. NEVER. and a scar is NOT going to affect the way it works. you can probably rent the TOOL from advance auto parts if you are worried about scarring it up. but you aint gonna hurt it. either way...

don't worry about the marking. if you look at the rear of the T bar, you will see a line on the end. driver side is / 0 \ the o is the transmission. the slashes are the T bars, left and right.just don't swap left for right. you will be ok. and if you unload the T bar, you can usually, if the...

LCA must come off. no way around it. and while you are at it, do the LCA bushings. unless of course they are new already, or you don't want to, or you think they are ok. i'd do it if it was me.

redfish is on the money.

looks like the spindles are reversed to me. the calliper should be in front.

booooooooooooo.at least you found it before it got you or someone else hurt.

you may even have a bent rim.btw, welcome to the site. you are gonna love this place!

longer bolts are available. don't fret, it'll be ok.

dudes, the sway bar is the one upgrade you should do. trust me. ask anyone who's done it and they will tell you the same. i asked if anyone made new ones on here and i got a response but, as usual i can't remember who it was. i think i posted the question in a thread named sway bar brackets or...

i always cut the front end of the bushing strap. the rubber is split so you don't have to fight the end. bolt the bracket in place(loosly) and put the bushing into the bracket. i use a c-clamp to close it back together and reweld the strap. just keep a wet rag there to keep things cool. don't...

looks ok snake. that thing is gonna be sweet.keep on gittin' up.

dang man, no wounder you go by cracked back. but oh is that the way to go. i've done that whole replacement just like that 4 or 5 times. dang.

im running a set of s/s springs on the rear and the m/p rear anti sway/stabilizer bar and i have one dang good handling car. 74 duster, /6. it is AWESOME. i also did the front. just too sweet.

well, if you don't constantly do pavement ripping burn outs it may last a lifetime. then again how can you not. 8.75 can go for at least 150,000. but i dont go that long between services. 30,000 sounds about right. my 7.25 has 218,000. i bought all the seals and bearings for the massive rebuild...

oh yea, if it is popping when you go around a corner, it may be axle bearings.jack the car up by the center of the rear end housing(bottom of the pumpkin) ,grab the tire and try to move the tire in and out, like your trying to push and pull the axle. see if it aint clunking. there are some good...

does the car have a pinion snubber? if the rubber is not there it will hit the floor pan and make a popping noise. good luck, and happy hunting.

just don't overtighten the spindle nut! i go tight and back off 1 flat.typically. some like em tighter some looser.make yourself feel good about it. i always check the hub temp with my hand when i'm cruising.you will know if it's too tight,just by the temp of the hub. good luck.

dude, fix this thing right.there seems to be plenty of frame rail left. blast all of it and replace the sheetmetal. you can do it. we can help.

thanks dave. i've built a couple of sets to replace torn up brackets and use the factory bushings. nice piece.i will keep you in mind the next time i need one. they're a royal PITA!!! to make.

my 68 340 k dont have one. neat though. somebody call ma.

the pin don't look like it is all the way tight yet.into the k member that is.everything else looks ok.

wykev, everything in the late models is HD stuff,ball joints ,tierod ends and, spindles.all just plain tougher.

does anyone know if there is anyone making the early sway bar bushing brackets used before 73 that attatch to the k member? ive made a couple of sets and its a pain,just thought i'd ask.thanks, postcar.

i concur. the best repair is replacement. it is a much better ans stronger fix.caps dont supply the required strength that this area needs.there is a lot of load on the rail in this area.you will be happier with the car and it wont be cobbled together.good luck man. this is the kind of repair...

redfastback nailed er on the head. it's amazing what 5 or 8 degrees can do for you.