Ideas on what's causing my click/tick/rattle noise?

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The fuel pump will be easy to rule out. Just take it off and start the engine. There'll be enough fuel in the carburetor to run it long enough and you'll lose very little if any oil. I'd still put a pan under it.
 
Lots of good info here folks, and thanks. I got off work early today so I'm headed to the shop for round three of "what's that noise". Today's agenda, check again for exhaust leaks, pull the fuel pump and see if that's it, and check the plug wires. As info, the fuel pump was new from NAPA, the plug wires were new from Auto Zone.

AJ, I will check the goodies on your list. I did check the crank endplay during assembly - I don't recall what it was, but it was just fine according the FSM specs. My rockers and arm are in pristine shape with new lifters and valves. I did re-use the factory bolts and washers to install the intake/exhaust. I'm running a Clifford 4-bbl intake with a AVS2 500 on it, and a set of Clifford shorty headers.

One detail I forgot to mention early on, is about throttle position. This noise is far more prevalent under light or partial throttle. If I am accelerating or decelerating hard, the noise is much less than loafing along at a leisurely pace. I have no idea what that could mean but I checked it many times and the results were consistent.
 
When you're checking for exhaust leaks, don't forget to check the riser gasket (where the intake/exhaust bolt together)- very common to fail.
 
When you're checking for exhaust leaks, don't forget to check the riser gasket (where the intake/exhaust bolt together)- very common to fail.

Good idea, but not a factor here. I'm running Clifford intake and shorties.
 
Not just any exhaust leak, a leak between the head and the headers. Was the mating surface on the headers flat? did you use some nice thick gaskets? Think about this scenario - The exhaust stroke puts pressure against the pipe and the exhaust bolts and pushes the header away from the head. Closed valve and it snaps back in place and anywhere the header flange hits the head causes a tick. The higher the RPMs the worse it sounds.First try re-torquing the exhaust bolts to see if it changes at all. Try tightening the bolts with engine running and ticking if you can get to them without burning the $&#! out of yourself. I've had this problem on small blocks.
 
I've checked multiple times for exhaust leaks, I'm just not finding any. I will keep at it.

The fuel pump does not appear to be the problem, I pulled it off and the ticking is still there. The pump arm is tight both vertically and horizontally.
 
Not lifters [post 53 ] because lifter noise is not engine load related.
If it is a 'double tap', it could be loose/worn piston pin. Especially if it is quieter on cold start up & gets noisier with heat. Cracked piston skirt also possible.
 
Not lifters [post 53 ] because lifter noise is not engine load related.
If it is a 'double tap', it could be loose/worn piston pin. Especially if it is quieter on cold start up & gets noisier with heat. Cracked piston skirt also possible.

I do not get a double tap, just a single tap that follows RPM. The wrist pins were all redone at the machine shop. The noise is the same, hot or cold.

I will keep investigating...
 
Get a broom with a wooden handle. Cut it off. Start the engine. Place one end of the handle against the engine, the other next to your good ear. You will hear the engine noises. It will usually be a "whirrling" sound. Move the handle around on the engine. If you hear the "click" you found the problem.

Simple, effective.
 
Have you ever gotten a video?
 
If it has an automatic transmission......

Check the flex plate to converter bolt heads for shiny spots / damage.

If the bolt heads are too thick or if there is another issue, the bolt heads can hit the webbing at the back of the block.

tic-tic-tic.......
 
I read through this entire thread and didn't see anything other than it's rpm related. Is the tapping/ticking at engine speed, half engine speed, double engine speed..... You may ask how do you tell? At idle I've used a timing light on a spark plug. That is half engine speed. You mentioned that it gets louder above 2000 rpm. In neutral or driving? I am just throwing this out there but I chased an engine speed tick in a SBC once that turned out to be the fuel line from the carb just hitting the back of the harmonic balancer.
 
That is a good trick in post 65, using a t/light. Synchronising the light flash with the noise, might be able to track down the noise to crank related [ full speed ] or valve train [ half speed ]. If half speed, moving the t/light to each plug wire might be able to narrow a particular cylinder.
 
'79 CPD FSM.
20211222_084202.jpg
'74 FSM for B-vans.
20211222_084659.jpg
The stepped bolt was introducted sometime in the mid '70's. Originally the rocker shaft had a small flat ground into the top front of the shaft, to indicate proper installation. The stepped bolt and revised hole (top larger dia, lower smaller dia), was to make installation "idiot proof".
 
Poorly worded text in '79 CPD FSM calling out special rear bolt, the '74 FSM simply instructs to install the "long" shaft retaining bolt in the rear.
20211222_084113.jpg
 
If it has an automatic transmission......

Check the flex plate to converter bolt heads for shiny spots / damage.

If the bolt heads are too thick or if there is another issue, the bolt heads can hit the webbing at the back of the block.

tic-tic-tic.......
Stick, but yes, that has happened to more than a few.
 
Sounds like the one Murphy's Law, "Parts that cannot and should not be assembled incorrectly will be."
Dang right. Just hang out with me long enough. You'll see it happen.
 
Yesterday was the work day from hell, I got nothing done on the truck. Lots of good suggestions here, I will get back into this after work today assuming it's any kind of a normal day. Haha, like that will happen...:rolleyes:
 
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