fstfish66
Well-Known Member
good thought i didnt read he installed a roller bearing or if the crank wasnt drilled,,,,
Need 4-speed Help
- Thread starter matsucu06
- Start date
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good thought i didnt read he installed a roller bearing or if the crank wasnt drilled,,,,
BTW - I haven;t forgotten about you - I have this entire weekend to myself (sister-in-law is staying over and will be occupying the wife and kids) - I'll get up in the attic and get a look at the hinge covers.
back on topic - yeah, the more I think about it, the more I think the input shaft/crank binding is the issue.
did you ever just turn the tranny over by hand when you first got it (out of the car)? If so, did you feel any resistance or binding? I'm no expert, but I would think if the tranny itself had bad bearings to the point of major squealing, you would feel or hear something when turning it by hand.
stolen from BBD.com:
http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/4sptech.shtml
Crankshafts, Flywheels, Pilot Bearings, Etc.
In the past, one of the major showstoppers in this conversion was the crankshaft register. Crankshaft registers need to be machined properly to accept the input shaft pilot bushing for the A-833, and a majority of the time, they were only machined to accept the hub of the torque converter for an automatic transmission application, or were only partially machined for the input shaft bushing. Your choices were either to have the crankshaft machined properly, ($$$$) or stick with your automatic. In the case of cast crankshafts, I've heard horror stories of drilling into oil passages when attempting the machine work! (If anyone can verify this, please let me know.) Fortunately, in 1994, Ma Mopar accidentally offered us an alternative- Beginning with the '94 model year, Chrysler began machining the crankshaft registers only in the "Automatic" configuration. Manual transmission applications received a new, needle-type bearing, which fit into a larger bushing that is driven into the torque converter register. The good news is that the torque converter register remained the same size as it has been since the mid-sixties! The bad news is that in most applications, the input shaft will need to be shortened approximately from 1/2-3/4 inches. This is an easy job with a cut-off wheel, but it could diminish the re-sale or trade value of your transmission should you decide to part with it. This part is available at most parts houses. (BCA #FC69907, or Mopar # (53009180AB).
http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/4sptech.shtml
Crankshafts, Flywheels, Pilot Bearings, Etc.
In the past, one of the major showstoppers in this conversion was the crankshaft register. Crankshaft registers need to be machined properly to accept the input shaft pilot bushing for the A-833, and a majority of the time, they were only machined to accept the hub of the torque converter for an automatic transmission application, or were only partially machined for the input shaft bushing. Your choices were either to have the crankshaft machined properly, ($$$$) or stick with your automatic. In the case of cast crankshafts, I've heard horror stories of drilling into oil passages when attempting the machine work! (If anyone can verify this, please let me know.) Fortunately, in 1994, Ma Mopar accidentally offered us an alternative- Beginning with the '94 model year, Chrysler began machining the crankshaft registers only in the "Automatic" configuration. Manual transmission applications received a new, needle-type bearing, which fit into a larger bushing that is driven into the torque converter register. The good news is that the torque converter register remained the same size as it has been since the mid-sixties! The bad news is that in most applications, the input shaft will need to be shortened approximately from 1/2-3/4 inches. This is an easy job with a cut-off wheel, but it could diminish the re-sale or trade value of your transmission should you decide to part with it. This part is available at most parts houses. (BCA #FC69907, or Mopar # (53009180AB).
matsucu06
Well-Known Member
mullinax95 / pntastar69 - Actually, since this is the same problem I had in the beginning, may have come close since I was able to back down my driveway, but couldn't get back up the incline. Good thing I have a scatter shield in case the clutch blew up... May need to eventually take the trans in if I can't figure this out. Was toying with the idea of rebuilding myself, but decided to spent time and resources on clutch. Now, I'm not sure. Would still like to resolve this on my own because it's more economical, but more importantly, I like learning more when I can do it myself. But, not going to beat my head against the wall for too much longer... Have gotten the name of a good mopar tranny guy here in town, so we'll see. Also, expecting to hear back from the Hays diagnostic folks, but now with the same problem with the new pressure plate, not as hopeful.
danmc77 - Actually, have already ruled out the input shaft to crank issue. The crank in a new Ohio Crank steel stoker crank. In an earlier post, I mentioned that I even called OC to verify if my particular crank was drilled for a 4-speed. They told me they drill all of their cranks the same to OEM spec.
Additionally, the second time I had the trans out, there was a grease ring around the end of the input shaft, so you could see where it was contacting the roller bearing and there was an additional 1" protruding beyond the grease ring. There was an adiditonal 1.5" depth into the end hole of the crank. So, there's enough clearance to prevent binding.... Thx for the suggestion.
fstfish66 - Let's see if I can answer all of the conditions you list:
danmc77 - Actually, have already ruled out the input shaft to crank issue. The crank in a new Ohio Crank steel stoker crank. In an earlier post, I mentioned that I even called OC to verify if my particular crank was drilled for a 4-speed. They told me they drill all of their cranks the same to OEM spec.
Additionally, the second time I had the trans out, there was a grease ring around the end of the input shaft, so you could see where it was contacting the roller bearing and there was an additional 1" protruding beyond the grease ring. There was an adiditonal 1.5" depth into the end hole of the crank. So, there's enough clearance to prevent binding.... Thx for the suggestion.
fstfish66 - Let's see if I can answer all of the conditions you list:
- When car is running and in nuetral, there are no noises or issues. Same when car is up on 4 jack stands. Also, while in nuetral, both rear tires are not moving either when the clutch pedal is depressed or released
- Clutch pedal has 2 different pressure resistance points. 1st - about 2 inches from the top, it's easy, because I can only feel the clutch pedal spring resistance. 2nd - clutch pedal is noticable harder; assuming it's from the pressure plate springs
- With engine off, regardless of clutch pedal being depressed or not, trans shifts into 1-4 or reverse easily
- WIth engine running, clutch pedal fully depressed, shifting into 1-4 is noticably more difficult and R grinds a bit before engaging, but wheels are not turning
- With engine runnning, trans in 1st gear, letting out clutch, both rear wheels turn freely. Same condition, with e-brake on, engine starts to die, but can keep running by reving engine and both rear wheels don't turn (i.e. slipping), no squealing
- Same scenario about, only in 4th gear, squealing noise coming from clutch area
- With engine off and trans in nuetral, can manually turned driveshaft and both rear wheels turn freely in the same direction with no binding
- Have not tried the above scenario in R. Also, have not tried turning rear wheels with trans in gear to see if engine rotates
- Rear end 3rd member condition is unknown, but no noises or binding issues. Also, posi unit seems to be working, at least not under load since both wheels turn in the same direction when rotating drive shaft or one of the wheels
fourspeed
Well-Known Member
Sounds like not enough clutch departure. As I recall, you said you moved the pivot point for the bellcrank to match the bell housing... The inner fender has a hole where the ball stud should go. You can get different brackets and ball studs for the bell housing to match. Is something funky with the bell crank?
Four speeds are not that big of a mystery inside. You do need a shaft to remove and install the counter shaft, though. Damn needle bearings!
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
man im puzzeled,,, you say in first gear the tires rotate,,but not enough engaugement to pul you up the drive way ??? car in the air,,,disconect the clutch linkage so the fork is free,, wiggle it,,, is there free play??? with clutch linkage disconected,,and fork having free play,, put it in 4th gear then start the car ,,,still get the squeeling ??
take the drive shaft out and repeat same thing,, see if it squeels,,,,im only searching fro ideas,, hard to figure out with out seeing/hearing it...
matsucu06
Well-Known Member
fourspeed - With the SFI scatter shield, TTI Header, and mini-starter, not much room and initially shortened the z-bar arm about .5" to clear the header tube. This last removal, added about .25" back, had to add another bend, to regain some of the through I lost from the original shortening. So, I think it's as maxed out for I can make it. The car was originally a /6, so the fender pivot, might be a little off, but I was able to fabricate the SS pivot to align both horizontally/vertically. So, should be ok there.
May tackle the trans rebuilt if I have too, but can think of anything that would cause it to slip??... Tore down the 3-speed trans that came with the car and kept the output shaft and shaft in case I need to rebuild...
fstfish66 - Have free play after clutch is released, so PP and TO bearing is fully disengaging from clutch plate/flywheel. Car moves forward in any gear and reverse, but will not not move under load. The first time, got stuck in the middle of the street and couldn't make it up the driveway incline... So, ever since then, all testing is done on jack stands w/e-brake...
If I take of driveshaft, how would I put any pressure/load on trans?
Talked to Dave Brewer today and he thinks, like others have suggested, it's scatter shield alignment. Said .0010" off can create a problem and need to use a service manual and offset dowels... Hmm... seems like an awfully tight tolerance, but assuming he knows what he's talking about. Also, said he didn't like the roller pilot crank bushing.
So, maybe need to use dial indicator and check SS alignment. Also, maybe I'll swap out the roller bearing with the bronze/brass one. I bought both initially.
Have you ever installed the press in bushing? Can I install easily? Any recommended methods?
Now that I think of it, the press in bearing sets further back in the crank compared to where I have the roller bushing inserted. I only pressed in flush with the end of the crank. Should it have been pressed in further? Am I grasping at straws?
May tackle the trans rebuilt if I have too, but can think of anything that would cause it to slip??... Tore down the 3-speed trans that came with the car and kept the output shaft and shaft in case I need to rebuild...
fstfish66 - Have free play after clutch is released, so PP and TO bearing is fully disengaging from clutch plate/flywheel. Car moves forward in any gear and reverse, but will not not move under load. The first time, got stuck in the middle of the street and couldn't make it up the driveway incline... So, ever since then, all testing is done on jack stands w/e-brake...
If I take of driveshaft, how would I put any pressure/load on trans?
Talked to Dave Brewer today and he thinks, like others have suggested, it's scatter shield alignment. Said .0010" off can create a problem and need to use a service manual and offset dowels... Hmm... seems like an awfully tight tolerance, but assuming he knows what he's talking about. Also, said he didn't like the roller pilot crank bushing.
So, maybe need to use dial indicator and check SS alignment. Also, maybe I'll swap out the roller bearing with the bronze/brass one. I bought both initially.
Have you ever installed the press in bushing? Can I install easily? Any recommended methods?
Now that I think of it, the press in bearing sets further back in the crank compared to where I have the roller bushing inserted. I only pressed in flush with the end of the crank. Should it have been pressed in further? Am I grasping at straws?
matsucu06
Well-Known Member
Does someone have instructions on how to measure and align a scatter shield? For example; Do you need to grind off the existing block alignment dowels? Will I have to enlarge some of the SS to block attaching or block plate holes?
Dave Brewer mentioned getting a hold of a MP shop manual, but not sure I have access or time to go to the library...
thanks for your help...
Dave Brewer mentioned getting a hold of a MP shop manual, but not sure I have access or time to go to the library...
thanks for your help...
'64 Cuda
Well-Known Member
I don't have the info for aligning the SS, but I know you have to remove the old alignment dowels & then use offset dowels to align the shield. The offset dowels have a slots in the end so you can turn them with a screwdriver to bring the SS into alignment. I think somebody here mentioned getting dowels from MP. Something about the ones from Lakewood being for ferd or brand X or something.
fourspeed
Well-Known Member
Offset dowels will bring it back in alignment. I think the concentricity was .006 on mine. You're also supposed to check the FACE of the bell housing to make sure it's perpendicular to the crank. I forget the specs, but my Centerforce came with a sheet that said what the tolerances were for both.
My buddy works in a machine shop. That's handy because he had indicators and magnetic bases. If you don't, they are not that expensive if you shop around.
My buddy works in a machine shop. That's handy because he had indicators and magnetic bases. If you don't, they are not that expensive if you shop around.
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Here are some literature I recieved with my clutch,hope this helps!I can see that the pics. are hard to read,so if you need better ones?PM me and I,ll take better ones.
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
ok first of all,,i highly doubt your dowl,scatter shield pins are that far out of wack,,im not saying there in the tolerences that todays clutch makers ask for,, but ide bet money the aligment isnt your problem at the moment,,, if you are going to check that, some one here or me,, i can photo copy you the same instructions for checking that that are posted here,,i would mail them to you,,the pic posted gives you the idea how to set up the dial indicator,notice in the pic one fly wheel bolt is out so the magnetic base can be flat on the crank,...
the reason i was asking you to remove the drive shaft im searching for answeres as you are,,if the drive shaft is out does the tail shaft rotate when in gear and running,,,
your pic of the Z BAR looks good,,as does the roller bearing,,if the tranny bolts up to your schatter shield all the way with out having to muscle it down to make it butt up to it,,then im pretty sure your input shaft and roller bearing are ok,,IF YOU REMOVE THE TRANS again look closely at the tip of the input shaft ,,,
next question,,have you ever driven this car with the current rear end in it ??
you say the wheels turn when the car is in the air,,have you tried to stop them from turning ?? idle the car put some gloves on see if you can stop the tires from turning,,,im wondering if some thing is bad in the rear end,,,
but you say the noise is in the scatter shield,very puzzling not being there to see it,,,
if you decide to realign the dowl pins i used lake woods on mine,,and i have a very old out of production scatter shield tha was made for these early A cars ansen was the brand name,,,
do you stil get the squeeling in gear with the Z BAR disconected ?
the reason i was asking you to remove the drive shaft im searching for answeres as you are,,if the drive shaft is out does the tail shaft rotate when in gear and running,,,
your pic of the Z BAR looks good,,as does the roller bearing,,if the tranny bolts up to your schatter shield all the way with out having to muscle it down to make it butt up to it,,then im pretty sure your input shaft and roller bearing are ok,,IF YOU REMOVE THE TRANS again look closely at the tip of the input shaft ,,,
next question,,have you ever driven this car with the current rear end in it ??
you say the wheels turn when the car is in the air,,have you tried to stop them from turning ?? idle the car put some gloves on see if you can stop the tires from turning,,,im wondering if some thing is bad in the rear end,,,
but you say the noise is in the scatter shield,very puzzling not being there to see it,,,
if you decide to realign the dowl pins i used lake woods on mine,,and i have a very old out of production scatter shield tha was made for these early A cars ansen was the brand name,,,
do you stil get the squeeling in gear with the Z BAR disconected ?
matsucu06
Well-Known Member
'64 Cuda - Thanks for the info. pettybludart sent me some pictures via email to use as a reference. Ordered some .07, .014, .021 offset dowels this afternoon from the local speed shops that should be in on Monday.
I get the measurement to align the center opening of the SS to the crank (X/Y Axis) and the offset dowels would correct that. Not sure I understand how to correct perpendicular (Z Axis) discrepancies; via a shim? Hmm...
fourspeed - Thanks for the picture, that helps. Early on, I picked up both a dial indicator and magnetic base for about $23 at Freight and Harbor (Local cheap tool/gadget store). But couldn't quite figure out how to attach/adjust properly, so you picture helps as a reference.
pettybludart - Thanks a bunch for sending the pics twice via email. The verbiage on the sheets help describe the necessary steps.
fstfish66 - Already have the instructions and references for measurements setup, thanks.
I was thinking the same thing as you, that it couldn't be the alignment, but probably need to scrutinize this a little more. The current stock alignment dowels are very short and the block plate doesn't sit evenly, so I usually need to bolt the SS on to make it sit flat. Plus, the current dowels are so short, they barely protrude beyond the plate to make contact with the SS. I can see them through the alignment holes on the SS, but not sure how much they're helping keep the SS aligned. I figured as long as it kept the plate aligned, the SS bolts to the plate so, should be ok. Hmm, maybe not...
I get the measurement to align the center opening of the SS to the crank (X/Y Axis) and the offset dowels would correct that. Not sure I understand how to correct perpendicular (Z Axis) discrepancies; via a shim? Hmm...
fourspeed - Thanks for the picture, that helps. Early on, I picked up both a dial indicator and magnetic base for about $23 at Freight and Harbor (Local cheap tool/gadget store). But couldn't quite figure out how to attach/adjust properly, so you picture helps as a reference.
pettybludart - Thanks a bunch for sending the pics twice via email. The verbiage on the sheets help describe the necessary steps.
fstfish66 - Already have the instructions and references for measurements setup, thanks.
I was thinking the same thing as you, that it couldn't be the alignment, but probably need to scrutinize this a little more. The current stock alignment dowels are very short and the block plate doesn't sit evenly, so I usually need to bolt the SS on to make it sit flat. Plus, the current dowels are so short, they barely protrude beyond the plate to make contact with the SS. I can see them through the alignment holes on the SS, but not sure how much they're helping keep the SS aligned. I figured as long as it kept the plate aligned, the SS bolts to the plate so, should be ok. Hmm, maybe not...
- While the car is running, the rear wheels don't turn if trans is not in gear or if the clutch pedal is depressed
- The wheels only turn if trans is in gear and clutch is released
- With the car running, trans in gear, and engine rev'd, I can stop rear wheels with e-brake. Only time, squealing noise is heard; when the car is running, in 4th gear, e-brake on or under load, and engine is rev'd....
- Have only driven car down and up the driveway with the current rear end
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
I would put a piece of cloth around the dowel and use visegrips,wiggle back and forth(sounds funny)if they are stuck,try prying abit with flathead with grips attached.Try not to damage the dowel,if you do,make sure to grind,sand smooth before re-install.When I installed my S.S,I moved to offset dowels.Good Luck!
matsucu06
Well-Known Member
pettybludart - Thanks for the suggestion. Didn't want to mar the dowels, so I was able to get a hammer and punch in from the engine side and puch the dowels out. Starter and 90 degree oil filter adapter had to be removed, but got them out clean.
Also, may have figured out the problem! Focused on aligning the SS and found the dowel in stock locations may not match up with the SS engine plate. There are 2 different size holes; bolt and larger size for the dowels. The driver side matches, but the passenger side was matched up with one of the bolt holes... So, the plate wasn't sitting flush against the block. Apparently, since I've installed a number of times, the passenger side dowel was getting pressed in and was only protruding about half the height of the driver side. Both dowels are identical... So, will look to relocate the passenger side dowel to a larger dowel hole on the plate and check alignment.
Since the dowel was preventing the plate and SS for mounting flush to the block, this would create a misalignment of the SS/trans to the crank and causing the input shaft to bind to the roller pilot bearing and possible causing the squealing noise... At least I'm hoping that's it....
Wish me luck...
Also, may have figured out the problem! Focused on aligning the SS and found the dowel in stock locations may not match up with the SS engine plate. There are 2 different size holes; bolt and larger size for the dowels. The driver side matches, but the passenger side was matched up with one of the bolt holes... So, the plate wasn't sitting flush against the block. Apparently, since I've installed a number of times, the passenger side dowel was getting pressed in and was only protruding about half the height of the driver side. Both dowels are identical... So, will look to relocate the passenger side dowel to a larger dowel hole on the plate and check alignment.
Since the dowel was preventing the plate and SS for mounting flush to the block, this would create a misalignment of the SS/trans to the crank and causing the input shaft to bind to the roller pilot bearing and possible causing the squealing noise... At least I'm hoping that's it....
Wish me luck...
Dartnut
Don't hate me because i'm beautiful
I bet Brewer is right.
My money is on the pilot bushing.
Swap it out for the factory style, it should just tap in, not a lot of heavy hammering, if it goes in tough, or you have any doubts, ream the bushing until it fits the input shaft easily, but not sloppy.
I'll bet the shank of the input shaft where it tapers up to the input splines is bottoming out on the roller style input bearing, causing a major binding issue.
You could even measure this with the trans out.
Good luck,:-D
Tom.
My money is on the pilot bushing.
Swap it out for the factory style, it should just tap in, not a lot of heavy hammering, if it goes in tough, or you have any doubts, ream the bushing until it fits the input shaft easily, but not sloppy.
I'll bet the shank of the input shaft where it tapers up to the input splines is bottoming out on the roller style input bearing, causing a major binding issue.
You could even measure this with the trans out.
Good luck,:-D
Tom.
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
he said it wouldnt move under load,,,now sounds like he is saying he had the block saver plate on in a incorrect position, if it was that cocked,and not flush against the block im thinking the starter should of made a heck of a sound when cranking from having an incorrect gear mesh,,,
if all this is true that you had the block saver plate on in an incorrect position and were binding in that roller bearing in the torque converter register of the crank,,,the pilot bearing may be bad or have a flat spot on it,,,
hard to diaignose over the computer,, any way i hope you found the problem
if all this is true that you had the block saver plate on in an incorrect position and were binding in that roller bearing in the torque converter register of the crank,,,the pilot bearing may be bad or have a flat spot on it,,,
hard to diaignose over the computer,, any way i hope you found the problem
matsucu06
Well-Known Member
Dartnut - Wayne said he didn't like the pilot bearings, but gave nothing specific. Also, have read several threads where guys have used them successfully, so may keep installed for now. Also, have sufficient depth in crank to accommodate input shaft, but binding may be cause by input shaft installed at a slight angle. Hopefully...
fstfish66 - Block plate was positioned correctly.. . Went over drivers side dowles ok, but was sitting on the tapered end of the passenger side dowel and not sitting flush. So, SS was always at a slight angle, but starter was engaged fine... Local speed shop order wrong dowels, GM - .0625, so I ordered the correct .0500 diameter ones from Summit and should be delivered tomorrow and hoping to get aligned and installed flush by this weekend. Really hope this is it!!
fstfish66 - Block plate was positioned correctly.. . Went over drivers side dowles ok, but was sitting on the tapered end of the passenger side dowel and not sitting flush. So, SS was always at a slight angle, but starter was engaged fine... Local speed shop order wrong dowels, GM - .0625, so I ordered the correct .0500 diameter ones from Summit and should be delivered tomorrow and hoping to get aligned and installed flush by this weekend. Really hope this is it!!
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
I really hope this was your problem,knowing myself how re and re on a 4 speed by yourself,overextending leg to reach for jack and sore arms.LOL!Dang there heavy.Good Luck and keep us posted!
matsucu06
Well-Known Member
pettybludart - Thanks for the encouragement. Yeah, you described the one man 4-speed trans R&R process accuratley. Although you left out smashed fingers on floor jack and stands...
Let's hope 7th times a charm...
Let's hope 7th times a charm...
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Hi,just thought I,d check in to see how you,ve made out with your problem?Did dowel re-location help out at all?Hope it,s working for you?
matsucu06
Well-Known Member
pettybludart - Thanks for checking in. With offset dowels, able to get the SS/plate to lie flush against the block and measured within spec. Upon testing, the shifting problem seems to have gone away, but the slipping was still there.
Went up to the Good Guys Swap meet and found a stock bellhousing and ended up chatting with a fellow Mopar guy. He wanted to make sure I was buying the correct bell for my trans.
After describing the problem, he gave me that quizzical look, like I'm sure most who have read this thread have had, and ask "Are you sure it isn't the rear end?" Also, as fstfish66 has asked. Asked if he had any advice on how to test and he told me to jack up one side of the rear and try and turn the tire by hand and if it turns, the clutch is bad in the posi unit... Sure enough!! The wheel up in the air turned, along with the driveshaft, but the stationary wheel didn't.
So, looks like the squealing and slipping was the rear end, but I would have, and did, bet money that the noise was coming from the trans/clutch. So, the trans/clutch and shifting problem is solved and now it's time to read up an learn how to rebuild a 489 posi clutch unit. Also, may change out the 323 for 410s while I'm at it....
Went up to the Good Guys Swap meet and found a stock bellhousing and ended up chatting with a fellow Mopar guy. He wanted to make sure I was buying the correct bell for my trans.
After describing the problem, he gave me that quizzical look, like I'm sure most who have read this thread have had, and ask "Are you sure it isn't the rear end?" Also, as fstfish66 has asked. Asked if he had any advice on how to test and he told me to jack up one side of the rear and try and turn the tire by hand and if it turns, the clutch is bad in the posi unit... Sure enough!! The wheel up in the air turned, along with the driveshaft, but the stationary wheel didn't.
So, looks like the squealing and slipping was the rear end, but I would have, and did, bet money that the noise was coming from the trans/clutch. So, the trans/clutch and shifting problem is solved and now it's time to read up an learn how to rebuild a 489 posi clutch unit. Also, may change out the 323 for 410s while I'm at it....
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Arrrrggg!!At least you found the problem.I had bought a used c.section from a member here,I paid a good amount also!It ended up being junk so I was petty pissed needless to say!Broke the bank for a new Auburn unit!Just to be done with it!Now I,m happy but out $$$$.I,ve learned my lesson!Good luck.
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
well the wheel on the ground cant turn,,,if it did it would fall off your jack,,and then you would be super man,,,,
im not exactly,,sure, maybe some one with more knolwedge can chime in here,,
if you have a limited slip rear center section,,i believe it switches back and forth to the wheel in need of traction,, what case do you have last 3 digits on the case of the center section,,drivers side of the case
741 742 489 ????
easest and cheapest way if you think its the rear,,,try to borrow a center section from some one for a day,,,,beats spending money if you dont need tooo,,,
im not exactly,,sure, maybe some one with more knolwedge can chime in here,,
if you have a limited slip rear center section,,i believe it switches back and forth to the wheel in need of traction,, what case do you have last 3 digits on the case of the center section,,drivers side of the case
741 742 489 ????
easest and cheapest way if you think its the rear,,,try to borrow a center section from some one for a day,,,,beats spending money if you dont need tooo,,,
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